Brakes: Rear drum puller?

[jsmith1107]

I have seen in many of my posts on the 1957 Studebaker Transtar that a special puller is needed for the rear brake drums---can someone clue me in if this is something a local auto parts store would rent? Where do I get this or do I have to use some "home ingenuity" and build some homemade things to get them off?

Thanks again everyone!

[jsmith1107]

I think I found what I was looking for---plus someone in another post said that they used a forward drum puller from Autozone to do this as well.

Thoughts everyone?

[voxnut]

I got a used one off of eBay. I just searched "Snap On Rear Hub Puller" and kept my eyes peeled for a good deal. They are also used on the early Mopars and Model A's, and I'm sure other cars from the era as well. I was able to buy a Blue Point (which was Snap-On's home mechanic brand) puller for about $70 shipped. There are deals out there, and I just figure since I'm going to own the Studebaker for hopefully the rest of my days, it's good to have.

[LeoH]

The one I've used, borrowed from another local club member, looked closer to voxnut's example. The one I used had 3 separate arms with adjustments on each arm likely for different wheel bolt patterns.

[studegary]

The key here is to use a hub puller and NOT a drum puller.

[Mrkelly]

Check with Chuck Collins at StudebakerParts.com he has one that he will loan out to you. Your only out the cost of shipping.

[jackb]

I'd guess by looking that the one you have will take more effort to remove the "HUB" than the other. Remember: once off, do NOT lube the pieces at all. Install all parts clean & dry !!

[IMJ]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]57500[/ATTACH]
I think I found what I was looking for---plus someone in another post said that they used a forward drum puller from Autozone to do this as well.

Thoughts everyone?

Hi Jeff,

The one in this picture looks exactly like the one I use. My father was a Studebaker mechanic for probably 25+ years. It's the one he used at the dealership he worked at. It's a Kent-Moore tool. I don't know if it fits the trucks but it works on my cars. Mine does have various holes for different bolt patterns. It also is the same one pictured in the 59-64 shop manual in the rear axle tool section. When using it I always put the lug nuts on backwards just snug and leave the axle nut on loosely making sure the plunger of the puller is against the end of the axle and not against the axle nut.

regards,
Jay

[rockinhawk]

I got mine from JC Whitney years ago. I don't know if they still have them though. Jeeps used the same puller for many years.

[fiveftsix]

I got one via Ebay
Here`s one that`s listed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller-/142075670185?hash=item21145eaea9&item=142075670185&vxp=mtr

Geoff

[rockinhawk]

Found them on Amazon from $30.- $120. I don't think I would buy the $30 dollar one.

[jclary]

I got one via Ebay
Here`s one that`s listed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TruePower-20-2029-Universal-Hub-Puller-/142075670185?hash=item21145eaea9&item=142075670185&vxp=mtr

Geoff

I prefer this style puller. While there are several companies offering this kind, I would try to buy from a "quality" brand. The above style puller gives you flexibility in terms of positioning the puller across various brands of vehicle wheels. It takes a little more positioning skill, but if you have mechanical common sense, it provides adjustment for even pulling. On my four lug champion, only two legs have been required for even pulling. Also, the removable top piece, allows you to use alternate wrenches, if "hammer pounding" is not required. I have also used an impact wrench with this type of puller.

No matter which style you use, the key is to protect the threaded end of the axle you are pulling against, and taking the time to position the legs, evenly threading the lug nuts in place, and adjust the angle of the legs to prevent binding. Lastly, the tricky part is knowing how much pressure /banging, you can apply, without warping or cracking the brake drum you are attempting to remove. That process takes patience...something one of my brothers never figured out.

[fiveftsix]

Having done the rounds at the local flaps stores I found myself SOL !!
It seems they do not have these to loan out anymore, the ones they do have are just lightweight pullers or slide hammers.
Looking for one I found various prices like Neil quoted so was rather skeptical of the true power ones on eBay, and even those I found at varying prices.
However some did include free shipping,so that made an overall impact on cost.

All I can say is it did the job for me, one side came off fairly easy whilst the other side took a fair bit of beating with a large hammer.
I checked the pullers threads afterwards and was pleasantly surprised it was still in good condition for the next time I might need one.
And as John noted, the top "T" comes off allowing the use of an impact hammer or a longer breaker bar.
Geoff

[JWL4541]

A couple of words about removing the rear brake drums.

The puller pictured above is the best type to use.
A heavy duty light sledge hammer ("Young Sledge") is needed.
Make sure the brake and hand brake adjustments are backed off.
Strike ONLY the dog bone part. NEVER strike the end of the puller. I you do, damage may be done to bearings and gears.
Leave the axle nut on with a couple of threads showing. This will prevent the drum and puller from flying across the room when pressure is released.
Upon reassembly, do it clean and dry, do not lube on the taper. Assure the key is in good condition.
Tighten the axle nut to specified torque rating (usually around 200 ft. lbs.) and install new cotter keys.

Like others have said, be patient it some times takes time and constant pressure for a stubborn drum to come loose.

(o[]o)

[StudeRich]

The OP has been told that he does not need a Puller, because his Truck is not a 1/2 Ton, so HIS problem is solved.