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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Column shift adjustment

    Am re-installing the steering column and shift linkage on my 3R6 with 3-speed/OD on the column. Shop manual says to insert a J-1308-B into the shift lower bracket box. Of course, I don't happen to have one of those. Am I correct in the belief that that tool is nothing more than a square centering shaft (a bit less than 1/2" x 1/2") that locks the shift linkage in the neutral position? In other words, won't a 1/2" x 1/2" square wooden dowel do just a well?
    Skip Lackie

  • #2
    Probably. Then disconnect the two pins at the tranny and verify that the two arms are in neutral, adjust the clevises until the pins slip through them and the shift arms. You should be good to go.
    It was suggested to me that after doing this shorten the 1st/Rev clevis one or two turns, to keep it from hanging up in first. I haven't tried it yet.
    Last edited by Tom Bredehoft; 08-18-2016, 03:51 PM. Reason: Correct shift designation.

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    • #3
      Here's a picture of the little bugger.

      Click image for larger version

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      [I][SIZE=20px][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Restorations by Skip Towne[/FONT][/SIZE][/I]

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      • #4
        Sit tight, all. This is discussed at length, with illustrations, in the November Turning Wheels Co-Operator. (It would be in October, which you'll receive toward the end of September, except that there is no October Co-Operator because that is the annual SDC International Meet report issue.) BP

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        • #5
          Oh Great, just push it in the bushes and wait til Halloween, it's all good!
          [COLOR=#3399cc][B][FONT=Georgia][SIZE=20px]StudeRich [/SIZE][/FONT][/B][/COLOR]
          [SIZE=11px][FONT=Georgia][B][COLOR=#800080]Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967[/COLOR][/B][/FONT][/SIZE]

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Tom B View Post
            Probably. Then disconnect the two pins at the tranny and verify that the two arms are in neutral, adjust the clevises until the pins slip through them and the shift arms. You should be good to go.
            It was suggested to me that after doing this lengthen the 1st/2nd clevis one or two turns, to keep it from hanging up in first. I haven't tried it yet.
            Thanks. I knew about the adjusting technique, but had never heard about [edit: SHORTENING]lengthening the 1/2 clevis. Will try it, as I have this problem on a 62 Chevy.
            Last edited by Skip Lackie; 08-21-2016, 10:49 AM.
            Skip Lackie

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Dwain G. View Post
              Here's a picture of the little bugger.

              [ATTACH=CONFIG]57488[/ATTACH]
              Thanks Dwain. I've seen a similar picture in the shop manual, but would like to know what the business end looks like in more detail.
              Skip Lackie

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              • #8
                SHORTEN the 1-R clevis, per Stude service bulletin.
                [I][SIZE=20px][FONT=Comic Sans MS]Restorations by Skip Towne[/FONT][/SIZE][/I]

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
                  a 1/2" x 1/2" square wooden dowel do just a well?
                  Skip - I can't resist. What is a "square wooden dowel"? How can it be both square and cylindrical? Perhaps I am missing something.
                  Gary L.
                  Wappinger, NY

                  SDC member since 1968
                  Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                  • #10
                    Maybe I shoulda used the word peg. But my dictionary (and Home Depot) says dowel cross sections can be round, square, elliptical, and rectangular.
                    Skip Lackie

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                    • #11
                      it's just use a piece of 1/2 X 1 flat-bar mill it to the size I wanted.

                      Also, before you get too happy with adjustments, replace those stupid little rubber bushings used on the transmission shifters...... If they're even still there.

                      I played hell with a 57 commander for a year before I figured that one out. Kinda still mad at myself, because that's the reason I sold the car.

                      The very day that the guy came all the way from Essex, MD to pick up the car and drive it home, i replaced the bushings and the car drove fine.

                      (slaps self on forehead) DOH!

                      The only Stude that I had that would keep up with Nashville traffic, had Power Steering, O.D. and was just fun....

                      for a big blue 4 door it was a fun car.

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                      • #12
                        Bushings already replaced. But this is a "new" steering column with a different shift linkage, so some adjustments are inevitable.
                        Skip Lackie

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Skip Lackie View Post
                          Maybe I shoulda used the word peg. But my dictionary (and Home Depot) says dowel cross sections can be round, square, elliptical, and rectangular.
                          I guess this is another example of the changing of our language during my lifetime.
                          Gary L.
                          Wappinger, NY

                          SDC member since 1968
                          Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by studegary View Post
                            Skip - I can't resist. What is a "square wooden dowel"? How can it be both square and cylindrical? Perhaps I am missing something.
                            In the door factory I worked in years ago they had machine that bored square holes.

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