Rear Axle: Driveshaft Angle for 49 Stude 3/4 Ton Truck

[rrausch]

I'm helping my buddy put a '56 Stude V8 into his dad's '49 Stude 3/4 ton truck. For a transmission we have a BW 86E converted to a floor shift.



Here is a poorly taken picture of the rebuilt 259 we are using:



My question is what kind of driveshaft angle to the rear-end should we be trying for?

[bensherb]

Turn the rear end input yoke so it's vertical and put an angle finder on it. They're $5 at Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/dial-ga...der-34214.html

[Mrs K Corbin]

get a digital angle finder, the harbor frightening ones aren't good enough, I have a couple and they're pretty much junk for small angles.

[Treblig]

The rear end should be 3-4 degrees lower than the output shaft of the transmission. In other words, the rear end should be pointed "down" relative to the drive line angle.

treblig

[rrausch]

I've got a Starrett angle finder, so no problem there. Thanks guys.

[StudeRich]

Have you found all of the Studebaker Truck specific Engine Mountings: Truck Clutch Housing, Front and Rear Engine Mount Brackets (Tall Cast Iron "Legs"), Engine Mounts (8), Truck Water Manifold, and "C" Cab Truck Throttle Bellcrank/Linkage?

Unless this is not your first attempt at doing one of these, you may not know of all of the truck differences that will bite you at the point of installation using Car Parts.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Driveline angle is not marque specific.

Basically, whatever angle you put in at the front, you take out at the back.
If the angle between your crankshaft plane and driveshaft plane is 2 degree's (up), then your pinion angle plane to the driveshaft plane should be 2 degree's (down).
That is at ride height loaded (or however you most use your vehicle).
Your 2 piece driveshaft does not change the plane, but the splines should only allow them to mate in the 'phased' position (u-joint yoke phasing)

Drag racers add a degree or two to account for spring wrap, but stock street stuff usually doesn't need it.