Rear Axle: Traction Bar Questions

[61Lark]

I have a few questions about putting traction bars on a 64 Daytona.

Why are the Avanti/Hawk bars different from the Lark bars?
Can the Avanti bars be used on a Lark?
Are the adjustable traction bars sold by Fairborn Studebaker legal for the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags?

I'm looking to install a new rear end in my Daytona in the next month or so and have thought about adding traction bars. I already have a pair of Avanti/Hawk bars and it would be nice to use them if possible.

Nick

[Mike Van Veghten]

The only difference would be the length.
Just measure the bars vs. the spring..!
The contact point of the bar needs to contact the spring at the attachment point, or spring eye at the front.

Depending on the style of bar, sometimes its easy to lengthen the bar by pushing in a "next size" smaller bar (telescopic tube) and bolt or weld it in place. The reposition the bumper.
Pretty easy if you need shorter...just drill new holes for the bumper where they need to be.

Mike

[karterfred88]

I have a few questions about putting traction bars on a 64 Daytona.

Why are the Avanti/Hawk bars different from the Lark bars?
Can the Avanti bars be used on a Lark?
Are the adjustable traction bars sold by Fairborn Studebaker legal for the Pure Stock Muscle Car Drags?

I'm looking to install a new rear end in my Daytona in the next month or so and have thought about adding traction bars. I already have a pair of Avanti/Hawk bars and it would be nice to use them if possible.

Nick

Are we talking about the stock Avanti factory bars, or aftermarket style? Welded mounts on the housing or bolt on to the spring plate?

[61Lark]

I should have been more specific, I am talking about the factory weld on bars. I understand that slapped bars are better, but I want to keep it close to stock.

[StudeRich]

Mike's good info seems to apply to the Aftermarket Type of "Snubber Bars" that stop the Axle rotation AFTER it happens.

Studebaker's System stops it BEFORE it starts, by being firmly attached to the Diff. housing, not loosely on the Springs.
But the TWO Types ARE a different kind of Engineering/Geometry completely, affecting the Down Force differently.

The part I always wondered is since Avantis are actually Lark Convertibles, why would the Factory Avanti Bars be like Hawks that have completely different length springs.

It is the Lark Type, the Long ones, that have the off Center Bend, 1560526 and 527 are different Left to Right.

The Short ones 1557384 Hawk/Avanti are straight and both the same.

[PackardV8]

The part I always wondered is since Avantis are actually Lark Convertibles, why would the Factory Avanti Bars be like Hawks that have completely different length springs.

????????????

[Mike Van Veghten]

Despite comments about the stock bars "working..."...at all.

I wouldn't run them with all the work required to install them, and the action they...provide.
I've talked to several people about them. If your engine is light on the horse power end, they might be ok. But if you have any real power, I'd look into another style.

And Rich, as far as the "slapper" bar stopping the spring wind-up after the wind-up..., you need to look into the proper setup/adjustment more closely..!

Mike

[StudeRich]

Mike's good info seems to apply to the Aftermarket Type of "Snubber Bars" that stop the Axle rotation AFTER it happens./Cut/

But the TWO Types ARE a different kind of Engineering/Geometry completely, affecting the Down Force differently.

/Cut/

"And Rich, as far as the "slapper" bar stopping the spring wind-up after the wind-up..., you need to look into the proper setup/adjustment more closely..!"
Mike

And there lies your "Aftermarket being a Better Type" justification, right there!

[IMJ]

Mike's good info seems to apply to the Aftermarket Type of "Snubber Bars" that stop the Axle rotation AFTER it happens.

Studebaker's System stops it BEFORE it starts, by being firmly attached to the Diff. housing, not loosely on the Springs.
But the TWO Types ARE a different kind of Engineering/Geometry completely, affecting the Down Force differently.

The part I always wondered is since Avantis are actually Lark Convertibles, why would the Factory Avanti Bars be like Hawks that have completely different length springs.

It is the Lark Type, the Long ones, that have the off Center Bend, 1560526 and 527 are different Left to Right.

The Short ones 1557384 Hawk/Avanti are straight and both the same.

I think the Lark version needs that "off center bend" for clearance from the floor pan in the event the axle experienced severe upward travel. This would probably only happen if one of the Dukes of Hazard was driving though.
Many years ago I had a pair of Lakewood traction bars on my Lark. I think they also fit a Mustang and I still have them somewhere in the box. When I installed them the "rubber snubber" aligned directly below the spring eye. When I would accelerate abruptly from a stop the whole backend of my car would raise up. It almost looked like a funny car when the tire expanded during launch.

regards,
Jay

[Alan]

Jay, That is what you want. When the rear raises like that it is pushing down harder on the rear tire contact patch.

[sweetolbob]

Jay, That is what you want. When the rear raises like that it is pushing down harder on the rear tire contact patch.

First time I recall seeing that was the original Ramchargers Dodge. Hard to find on youtube but obvious when you're standing there watching them race.

[IMJ]

Jay, That is what you want. When the rear raises like that it is pushing down harder on the rear tire contact patch.

When I was in my teens it was cool to see those bright yellow bars in front of the wheels. Maybe I should've put sand bags in the trunk for even more increased traction! Maybe I should've given them more of a trial. I removed them shortly after I installed them thinking the rear end of my Daytona was just to light for them. When I took them off all 4 axle U-bolts were bent at the threads. Now that I celebrated the 40th anniversary of my 19th birthday, I drive a little differently. Therefore Studebaker engineered radius rods are sufficient!

regards,
Jay

[BILT4ME]

My brother's 67 Camaro had these type of traction bars on it. If they were adjusted "tight", then we got stuck in a gravel parking lot with a hole in it because it lifted a wheel off the ground. If we adjusted them too "loose" then we got a lot of slap from them.

I got after it one day and dumped the clutch and laid into it. I went back to look a the black marks laid, and there was a patch of rubber where it first launched, then a blank spot of equal size, then a strip of rubber about 15 feet long. I hit the clutch so hard that it literally bounced the rear axle off the ground. 6000 RPM in 1st gear. Run it until the valves float, then shift! 327 w/ Muncie M21 4 speed, 4.56:1 rear limited slip with M/T N50-15 tires. The cam in the car made it lope so hard that idling in 1st gear would chirp the tires.

I think the Lark version needs that "off center bend" for clearance from the floor pan in the event the axle experienced severe upward travel. This would probably only happen if one of the Dukes of Hazard was driving though.
Many years ago I had a pair of Lakewood traction bars on my Lark. I think they also fit a Mustang and I still have them somewhere in the box. When I installed them the "rubber snubber" aligned directly below the spring eye. When I would accelerate abruptly from a stop the whole backend of my car would raise up. It almost looked like a funny car when the tire expanded during launch.

regards,
Jay