Speedo / Tach / Gauges: Wiring Stewart Warner Ammeter, Fuel, Temperature, and Oil Pressure Gauges

[jnfweber]

Yes, I know I shouldn't use an ammeter in 2016, but I purchased this matching (photos attached) set of gauges to replace the gauges in my 1957 President, which came with 2 colorful gauges (which no longer worked) and 2 idiot lights for temp and oil. I already tried direct wiring the switched "ign" wire (black stripe on 12 ga white wire) and plain black wire, which, predictably resulted in a GROUND SHORT. I did get some readings from the fuel and temperature gauges, but they are not correct. The temp light comes from a single wire hooked to the sender on the left rear of the block. (289 V-8).

I can't read a wiring diagram (that is why I became a surgeon, and not an engineer) although I have screen shots of 57 Clipper wiring diagram. In the interim while waiting for "expert" advice (from this forum) <g>, I have successfully installed the electric wipers (with a new motor from S.I. and today I will try to re-install the original AM radio and speaker which has been restored. The lid of the dashboard is still off pending correct wiring of the gauges.

Thanks. Also included some recent photos. The car is street legal with brake, backup, and tail lights.

[greyben]

Out of curiosity why shouldn't you use an ammeter. It's a matter of choice, but I've always felt that an ammeter provides better information than a voltmeter on the state of the electrical system.

The fuel and temp gauges need to be matched to the resistance range of the sending units. Studebaker originally used a direct reading oil gauge. It looks like you will need a sending unit to match the gauge.

[karterfred88]

The fuel gauge needs to be matched to your tank sender and same with temp sender. You can "T" the temp sender to continue using the light with a new matching sender from the company that made the gauges.
Since they are S-W the right senders can be purchased at most Autoparts stores, but you may have to change the gas gauge, and get one that matches the car's tank sender range.

[StudeRich]

Looks like everyone missed the kind of unstated but obvious question: How to wire the Ammeter?

The Main Power Wire from the Solenoid (Red on Hawks) goes to the Input side (should be the Left of Car) of the Ammeter, the "Load" wire (Black) going out to the Ign. Switch, goes on the Right Side along with the Power wire to the Turn Sig. Insulator Board for Stop/Turn, and the charge wire from the "Batt." Term. of the Voltage Regulator.

It's all right here on the '57 Golden Hawk Diagram, they also wired the Cigar Lighter into the Ign. Switch feed Term. with the always Hot Ammeter wire.

https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud.../57GH-wire.jpg.

If by chance the Ammeter happens to show a + (Charge) with Headlights on, just reverse each group of wires on the Ammeter.

Jack, you may have to Trace that Black Wire and Wht/Blk. that shorted to it's other end to be sure what those are.
The Blk/Wht may be the Generator Ground wire to light the Idiot Light, and need to be disconnected, I would study the Commander/President Diagram and compare to the Hawk one. Enlarging and Printing these is the way to go.

The other Three Gauges:
Looks like you bought all Electric Gauges in stead of a Bi-metal wire Temp. Gauge and a Mechanical Oil Line Type Oil Press. Gauge. That means you will need a Power wire to ALL Three from the ACC. Terminal of the Ign. Sw. and just connect the existing Temp. and Fuel Gauge wires to the sender side of the Gauges.