Speedo / Tach / Gauges: Mechanical Temp Gauge question

[Timj]

I need to know if it is possible to put a mechanical, in place of the electric temperature gauge in a 259 V8? I got a real nice set of gauges to replace all of my faulty ones in my 62 GT Hawk. The previous owner sand blasted the car and got media inside the gauges and ruined them. I almost appears the current temperature sending unit can't be removed without removing the engine. I'm sure that can't be correct, but is there a trick to remove it? I can barely get a wrench back by the firewall. This is last thing to get a full set of working gauges, with summer coming I need to make sure it doesn't overheat.



PS. I made this metal dash as a replacement and covered it with vinyl, so I didn't cut the original dash face plate.

[Flashback]

I used a Stewart Warner mechanical gauge in my 53, and used the same location the sender was in. Close but it worked.

[RadioRoy]

I'm not sure if the temperature sender can be removed from the diamond shaped plate that holds it. But that plate can be removed from the back of the head. When I replaced an electrical gauge in my 60 Lark 259, the sender seemed to be stuck in place. I took the plate out of the the other head and mounted the new sender in that one. It seemed to me that the rear of one head was as good as the rear of the other head.

[BobPalma]

Tim, if the fit is that tight back by the firewall, the chances are pretty good that the rear motor mounts are shot, allowing the back of the engine to sag down, making the top of the engine closer to the firewall.

That said, you could do as RadioRoy did and just use the hole at the backside of the other head.

When installing a mechanical sending unit, though, be careful to install it so the probe is well into the coolant stream. Don't use so many bushings and/or pipe thread reducers that the sender's probe winds up being too far from the primary coolant flow. BP

[garrilla]

Tim, I drilled and taped the drivers side water pump passage for my Speedhut water temp sensor. If you have a power steering pump make sure it clears for adjustment. I was able to remove the original sensor and install a pipe plug.

[Timj]

Thanks guys for the great input. Bob P. - You are exactly correct. I had to replace the front motor mounts and not gotten to the rear yet. I believe this is the reason there is so little room behind the engine. The good news is I laid across the top of the engine and was able to get the wire loose. I tested it with my meter and found the sensor was fine it was a bad wire. I decided it was cheaper to order a electric gauge than fight any further trying to remove the sensor. BTW, If anyone is looking for cheaper gauges I found and ordered the Equus 7000 series gauges that are working really well, especially when considering the price. I'll continue to update everyone as I progress.

[StudeRich]

Are you sure your '62 GT Hawk has a 259 Engine? If it does have a "V" Starting Digit Engine Serial Number, it may have been replaced over the years.

What no Tach.? There are many Aftermarket Tachs. that fit the hole in the dash Chassis and do not require a Sending Unit.

[Timj]

The engine number is V587685 . I am from this assuming it was a replacement engine.

[StudeRich]

Right Tim, just not in the sense that we understand the Term "Replacement Engine" here.
It is a common term used here reserved for a 100% New Factory Un-Serialized Engine Block or Short Block at the time of it's installation.

Just minor semantics, but this would be called something like an "Engine Swap" from another Car, a '63 Lark.

[Chucks Stude]

Just FYI, I changed the sending unit on my '62 Hawk, with a combination wrench, with no problems. So I concure that a rear motor mount should cure all your ills.