Silver Hawk Major Modifications

[Treblig]

Well today was very disappointing!! I tested the fuel gage and the sender....both seemed to work OK. Then I installed the gage and tested it using the new sender in the trunk of the car (without installing the sender in the tank). I wanted to determine where the float needed to be to get a "full" and "empty" reading on the dash gage. The dash gage worked properly for about 10 minutes of testing then it QUIT!! I checked everything, the power wire to the gage was getting 12V and the ground wire was grounding properly. On the back of the gage I removed the wire that goes to the tank and with the ignition "on" and 12V to the other terminal I used a ground clip to ground the fuel sender terminal on the back of the gas gage. The dash gage wouldn't move (it was DEAD), so I called ISI and the guy (John) said that the gage has an internal 12V to 6V converter and that it must have failed (burned out). Evidently it can burn out after 50 years of sending a good signal. So I pulled the gage, boxed it up and it's going back to ISI.
Now I'm pissed off because I had waited for the gage so that I could go cruising. I'm bolting the seat back in place and I'm going cruising without the darn gage. I'll fill the tank at the first gas station and drive it as often as possible as I finish the nit picky stuff.


Back to the condenser installation.


treblig

[Treblig]

Has anyone ever overhauled a '59 Silver Hawk heater control valve (under hood, on firewall)???

treblig

[Treblig]

FINALLY SOME REALLY GOOD NEWS!!! I bolted the seat back in place after I finished installing the condenser (pics later) and went out for spin. It drove well and the temp stayed right around 181-182 and that's with the condenser about 1/8" away from the radiator. It never got anywhere close to getting hot like it was before. I think the timing (advance) needs adjustment because it's sluggish at the beginning of every gear but as soon as the RPM gets up above 1200-1500 it takes off.
When I stopped to fill up with gas the temp had gone up to 185 (from sitting with the engine off) but as soon as I got back on the road it went back down to 180-181. I drove around for a good while so things are LOOKING UP!!

Treblig

[Treblig]

Here are the pics of the "installed" AC condenser. I made it with adjustable capabilities so that, if the closeness to radiator is a factor, I could adjust it closer or further away. Based on the temp gauge, looks like I'm moving it as close as possible without touching!!:






I also got the AC evaporator blower fans all cleaned up....DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO OIL/LUBE THE BEARING/BUSHING ON THESE????:




And lastly, the firewall AC/heater ports arrived!!!





Looks like I have massive amounts of space for a really nice trans cooler!!


Treblig

[Treblig]

I'm gonna need some help here!! I found this in the trunk (under the trunk mat). I know what it's for but I have no idea where it goes, how it works or what knob on the dash makes it work. I've looked through every page of my original '59 Service manual and didn't find anything about how it, how it works or what makes it squirt the windshield. I do see the little squirter thingies in the cowl but where's the motor that does the squirting? I don't see anything on the dash or floorboard to actuate a squirter motor. What am I missing??:



treblig

[DEEPNHOCK]

The pump/switch mounts to the floor... (models may vary)
The bag hung under the hood.

[sweetolbob]

I'm gonna need some help here!! I found this in the trunk (under the trunk mat). I know what it's for but I have no idea where it goes, how it works or what knob on the dash makes it work. I've looked through every page of my original '59 Service manual and didn't find anything about how it, how it works or what makes it squirt the windshield. I do see the little squirter thingies in the cowl but where's the motor that does the squirting? I don't see anything on the dash or floorboard to actuate a squirter motor. What am I missing??:



treblig

Universal electric ones are available most places.

http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ryder/af/ryder/core/content/product/srm/oid/45703/erm/productDetail.do?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=product&gclid=Cj0KEQjwhZm7BRCUyfS6ho2VjOEBEiQAumpGMuxrKz-2eGH7gJ_Ey4KoFaB1GLhURK1m14ZiVEWGhMoaAn458P8HAQ

Bob

[Treblig]

The pump/switch mounts to the floor... (models may vary)
The bag hung under the hood.

My '69 Barracuda has a foot pump so I had looked for a foot pump on the floor/foot boards on the Silver Hawk. There was nothing there. Either way what you folks are saying is that the windshield squirter came with the car from the factory?? A previous owner must have removed the lines and the foot pump because the little chrome squirter are installed in the cowl and they look original. While I was looking for a pump I did come across a hole in the firewall (high in the center) with a rubber grommet. The hole measures about 1/4" or so. Maybe that's where the hose passes through to the squirters?? I can post a pic later. I can buy an aftermarket squirter/motor, that's not a problem. I was just wondering if I was missing something??/ The aftermarket squirters come with a button that you have to mount to the dash to actuate the pump.
It is funny that there's no mention of the windshield washer in the Service Manual???
Treblig

[Lynn]

FINALLY SOME REALLY GOOD NEWS!!! I bolted the seat back in place after I finished installing the condenser (pics later) and went out for spin. It drove well and the temp stayed right around 181-182 and that's with the condenser about 1/8" away from the radiator. It never got anywhere close to getting hot like it was before. I think the timing (advance) needs adjustment because it's sluggish at the beginning of every gear but as soon as the RPM gets up above 1200-1500 it takes off.
When I stopped to fill up with gas the temp had gone up to 185 (from sitting with the engine off) but as soon as I got back on the road it went back down to 180-181. I drove around for a good while so things are LOOKING UP!! Treblig

Congrats. Figured you needed more radiator.
Sounds like the one you got is sufficient, given how quickly it recovered after a hot soak. The real test will be when the A/C is on. It isn't just the presence of the condenser that is a factor, but the heat it throws off when the A/C is running. Still, I am betting you are there.


BTW, nice score on the ww bag. Looks to be in very good condition.

[Treblig]

Congrats. Figured you needed more radiator.
Sounds like the one you got is sufficient, given how quickly it recovered after a hot soak. The real test will be when the A/C is on. It isn't just the presence of the condenser that is a factor, but the heat it throws off when the A/C is running. Still, I am betting you are there.


BTW, nice score on the ww bag. Looks to be in very good condition.

Yes Lynn, I was really worried about the new engine!! Thought I might have a blown head gasket. It was a big relief knowing that it was just an inefficient radiator. My daughter's been chopping at the bit waiting for her car and a messed up engine would have caused major delay. I agree about the AC being "on" and introducing more heat to the system. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I have lots of room for a big (high CFM) fan in front now so that would be an option and then there's the high flow water pump!!

treblig

[Treblig]

Had to spend a day getting my son to surgery on his knee so I haven't been able to do much but I managed to get a plate trimmed to fit over the opening in the firewall where the AC lines used to run through. Since I now have a heater up under the passenger dash I had to cut a little more of the firewall for the heater lines. No big deal because I can simply make a plate to cover everything. I already received the bulkhead fittings so it was pretty easy:




Once I had the plate to cover the hole(s) in the firewall I drilled it for the bulkhead fittings:




Then I made another smaller plate to go on the inside of the firewall to sandwich the firewall sheet metal:



So the big plate goes on the engine side of the firewall and the small plate goes on the inside of the firewall sandwiching the actual firewall in between the two plates. I also used existing bolts (first two pics) that were already on the firewall to hold the plate in place.

I'll weld the T-nuts on the inside plate so that I can install the outer plate with bolts (1/4" X 20). This will make it easy to attach the heater hoses and the AC lines and remove the plate (when necessary) that holds the fittings.

Treblig

[Treblig]

Had time to finish the bulkhead fitting panel. I welded the T-nuts to the inside plate so I could suck the two plates together sandwiching the firewall in between. With the T-nuts on there I'll be able to disconnect (when necessary) the AC and heater lines and remove the fittings but the plate will stay attached to the firewall. I also put a bead of dum dum along the inside edge of the outer plate to seal the plate to the firewall.:





Paint and test assembly to make sure everything will go together and align:




I had to do a litttle more trimming on the fire wall bt it wasn't much at all.



Now it's ready for the AC guy. I dropped off the evaporator and the two blower motors. I had brought them home so I could lube the blower motor bearing/bushings and to straighten all the fins on the evaporator. I also cleaned the motors and the evaporator real good to make them as efficient as possible.



Everything fit well. I cut some 5/8" hose for the heater but didn't install so as to leave as much room as possible for the AC guy to connect the AC hoses/fitting under the dash. I'll probably remove the heater as well to give the guy plenty of room. We really don't need a heater for at least 5 months anyway!!!


treblig

[Mrs K Corbin]

For temporary, just use the Odometer as a "gas guage"... It works. I haven't had a working guage for years in my 2R5.....

Well today was very disappointing!! I tested the fuel gage and the sender....both seemed to work OK. Then I installed the gage and tested it using the new sender in the trunk of the car (without installing the sender in the tank). I wanted to determine where the float needed to be to get a "full" and "empty" reading on the dash gage. The dash gage worked properly for about 10 minutes of testing then it QUIT!! I checked everything, the power wire to the gage was getting 12V and the ground wire was grounding properly. On the back of the gage I removed the wire that goes to the tank and with the ignition "on" and 12V to the other terminal I used a ground clip to ground the fuel sender terminal on the back of the gas gage. The dash gage wouldn't move (it was DEAD), so I called ISI and the guy (John) said that the gage has an internal 12V to 6V converter and that it must have failed (burned out). Evidently it can burn out after 50 years of sending a good signal. So I pulled the gage, boxed it up and it's going back to ISI.
Now I'm pissed off because I had waited for the gage so that I could go cruising. I'm bolting the seat back in place and I'm going cruising without the darn gage. I'll fill the tank at the first gas station and drive it as often as possible as I finish the nit picky stuff.


Back to the condenser installation.


treblig

[Treblig]

If I knew what kind of gas mileage I was getting I could do that but with a new engine/carb and transmission I have no idea how far I can get on a tank of gas.....unless you talking about connecting the gas gauge wires to the odometer???? LOL!!

treblig

[kurtruk]

Thank you so much for the pic!! From what I can see it looks like it has those (old school) big staples holding the seal to the metal piece>>
At least I know what it looks like and how it's shaped. If I had known that it was missing I would have sat inside the engine compartment (when I had the engine out) and cut a piece to fit perfectly between the hood and the support shield. It's pretty hard to see the gap when the hood is closed. Looks like I'm going to have to steal my grandson's play doh again???





thanks,
treblig

That seal is available from Studebaker vendors.