Rear Axle: Flanged axles

[wminter]

I have a 64 Hawk (last R2 made) that I am rebuilding. I have some slack in the rear hub key slot. Is it best to replace the axle with a flanged one? If so what brake drum do you use?

[StudeRich]

There really is no "Best" answer to this one.
It depends on your intended use, mechanical ability, and your wallet size.

A Flanged Axle MAY be "Best" for some especially those planning to do some "spirited driving" or Drag Racing.

However for normal daily use this Tapered Axle design Differential has been run untold Millions of miles with no problem.

The biggest issue of going to the Studebaker 'late '65-'66 setup will be the huge number of parts and cost needed, because you need the entire Axle Housing and special '65='66 Drums.

If you go the Fairborn Studebaker aftermarket Flanged Axle route, there will just be some machining of the Backing Plate hole size needed and also a fair amount of cost.

The "Best" solution may very well be a New Hub & Drum Assembly. It will probably need a New Axle Key and proper installation, which was not done previously.

[41 Frank]

If you decide to use an aftermarket flanged axle change over your old drums are used by removing the old tapered hubs.

[Colgate Studebaker]

Rich says it well, also in your instance, are you returning the car to as built condition, or do you want to fix it for peace of mind? Being the last R2 Hawk built, it merits original rebuild, however if you want to really "drive" the car, my opinion is to go with the Fairborn axles. The decision is yours to make. Bill

[wminter]

Thanks. I'll stay with the tapered axles.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Sometimes safety overrides originality. I'd go with the Fairborn flanged axle setup. I've seen too many pictures of tapered axles failing on old Studebaker axles to members of this forum and a much easier setup to maintain the rear brakes.

Allen

[Jessie J.]

Replacing or repairing a quarter-panel will cost more. And if wheel and broken stub decide to make their exit at 60+mph on a curve there will be NO brakes. Hope you take no one else out with you.

On a restored Hawk one would expect that it will be wearing full wheel covers, NO?
No one is going to see or know what kind of axles are thus concealed, ....unless you want to tell them.

Flanged axles are now known to be a gamble. Don't forget to ask yourself just how much it is that you can afford, or are willing to lose.

No way would I trust putting a new hub and key on an old shaft that I know has already been 'worked' by a loose assembly.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Flanged axles are now known to be a gamble. Don't forget to ask yourself just how much it is that you can afford, or are willing to lose.

No way would I trust putting a new hub and key on an old shaft that I know has already been 'worked' by a loose assembly.

Writer meant "Tapered axles are a known to be gamble." Personally I would not send my wife out in my R2 powered Hawk on a road trip or the beer store with old tampered-with tapered axles. (boy that is a mouth full). New Fairborn Flanged axles are a piece of mind not an investment.

Allen

[E. Davis]

My vote is with the Fairborn guys. If you have key slot problems now you probably have an axle that is a wreck waiting to happen. There have been numerous postings on this forum of broken axles especially in Hawks. I replaced mine with the Fairborn kit this fall and I think its the best investment you can make in safety, ease of maintenance and last but not least,peace of mind, knowing you have the best axle set up on the market.

[E. Davis]

Just a quick addition to my prior post. I changed to flanged axles because I also had a hub problem. (crack in the keyways.) I searched high and low for new replacements and they are non-existent so don't waste your time looking unless you know somebody who has a NOS set stored away. I did find some used ones on the market but I didn't want to buy someone else's worn out problem. I would guess you are faced with the same situation and your choices are limited.

[Mrs K Corbin]

Did the Champ trucks have flanged axles at any point?

[PackardV8]

Just a quick addition to my prior post. I changed to flanged axles because I also had a hub problem. (crack in the keyways.) I searched high and low for new replacements and they are non-existent so don't waste your time looking unless you know somebody who has a NOS set stored away. I did find some used ones on the market but I didn't want to buy someone else's worn out problem. I would guess you are faced with the same situation and your choices are limited.

It's quick/easy/inexpensive to have used axles and hubs magnaflux inspected.

If the axle is not bent or cracked, if the keyway is good, if the hub isn't cracked, if the installation is correct, I'm not afraid of the OEM tapered axles for typical low-mileage hobby driving.

The problems occur because:

1. The axle was run hard at some point. On a drag start without TwinTraction and traction bars, the right rear leaf spring wraps/unwraps as the right rear tire hops up and down. This stresses the axle.

2. Bent wheels and or out-of-balance tire/wheel

3. Bent axle

4. Weak shocks

5. Few-to-none will do a thorough magnaflux inspection, bearing adjustment and Shop Manual installation of all the parts involved. They just keep running the problem until catastrophic failure.

jack vines

[E. Davis]

I couldn't agree more if all the factors you mention are good. The problem arises when the parts have been damaged or overly worn and placed on the used parts market. Most used part sellers aren't going to go the trouble to have axles and hubs magnaflux inspected before selling them. Buying used parts is always a crap shoot and most are not willing to put their valuable vehicles or cargo at risk when better alternatives are available. I think the original poster thought new hubs were available but to my knowledge they are not. Thus he will have to go on the used market to find a replacement and it might not be much better than what he has. I'm sure others will have different opinions.