Brakes: Removing rear wheel studs

[60Stude]

I have finished up refurbishing the braking system on my 1960 Lark wagon. Everything is now new, including a Turner dual M/C conversion kit.

When I pulled the rear hubs I discovered 2 of the lug studs on the driver's side were stripped out. Luckily I was able to stagger the hub puller and not use those studs to pull the hub.

I took the hub to my Carquest shop to have the two bad studs pressed out and 2 new ones installed. My son dropped it off for me, and the shop said there were little nubs coming out from the drum that press against the stud that needed to be ground off first. So I did that, and took it back to him. I went back today, and he said he could not press them out. He said he had so much pressure on the studs that he was afraid he was going to break the drum and/or hub.

Are these studs difficult to remove? Are we missing a step or something? I don't know how difficult it is to buy another drum/hub, or I'd just go ahead and do that. I'm anxious to get her back on the road this summer! Thanks for any help anyone can offer!

Mike

[63 R2 Hawk]

If it were me, I would cut the offending studs off with a hacksaw and carefully grind them flush, then drill them out with progressively larger drill bits until you have them bored out enough to remove them without nicking the drum stud hole with the drill. Hopefully the shop didn't warp the drum with too much pressure....

[rusty nut garage]

Be thankful the guy doing the work had enough sense to not continue.
Afterngrinding them flush drill them out until they are week enough you can then drive them out with a punch

I have finished up refurbishing the braking system on my 1960 Lark wagon. Everything is now new, including a Turner dual M/C conversion kit.

When I pulled the rear hubs I discovered 2 of the lug studs on the driver's side were stripped out. Luckily I was able to stagger the hub puller and not use those studs to pull the hub.

I took the hub to my Carquest shop to have the two bad studs pressed out and 2 new ones installed. My son dropped it off for me, and the shop said there were little nubs coming out from the drum that press against the stud that needed to be ground off first. So I did that, and took it back to him. I went back today, and he said he could not press them out. He said he had so much pressure on the studs that he was afraid he was going to break the drum and/or hub.

Are these studs difficult to remove? Are we missing a step or something? I don't know how difficult it is to buy another drum/hub, or I'd just go ahead and do that. I'm anxious to get her back on the road this summer! Thanks for any help anyone can offer!

Mike

[bezhawk]

They are swedged in from the factory. That means there is a shoulder that protrudes past the surface of the drum, then it is pressed until that shoulder is flush, much like a rivet. The stud needs a swedge cutter, or it has to be drilled out to remove the stud.

[63 R2 Hawk]

My Hawk had one rear drum that wasn't swaged onto the axle hub. Never had a problem with it being out-of-round, but I eventually replaced it with a properly swaged drum.

[Skybolt]

http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/atyler/atbrakes/stude_brakes_long.pdf

Is another way, page 12, and he describes how to remove the studs like others have mentioned. Right next to the photo of the hub.

The bottom line is you can safely remove the studs and replace them without having them swagged again. The other studs, if left in place, will hold it all together.

[DEEPNHOCK]

There are tools made to cut the 'swage' from a wheel stud.

http://www.goodson.com/Brake-Drum-Swedge-Cutting-Tool/

OTC sells a kit to do the job properly (OTC P/N 4295)
(No press needed)



And there is a swage tool made to use in a press.



So when you install your drum onto the hub, you can 'lock' the drum to the hub (before trueing on the brake drum lathe)..

(swaged on left)



Just knocking/pressing out swaged studs can tear up the stud/drum/hub.
That's why you cut the swage before disassembly.

[Deaf Mute]

My press wasn't big enough to press the studs from my Avanti rear hub, but a friend has a bigger one. We just put a large socket over the head of the stud (so as not to warp [or break] the drum) and when they let go they really POPPED. Pressing the new ones in was easy.

[DEEPNHOCK]

My press wasn't big enough to press the studs from my Avanti rear hub, but a friend has a bigger one. We just put a large socket over the head of the stud (so as not to warp [or break] the drum) and when they let go they really POPPED. Pressing the new ones in was easy.

That 'pop' you were describing was the last bit of the swage popping out of the hub after swelling the hole in the drum and in the hub.
It is damaging both of those holes.
That is why you should cut the swage before pressing out the studs.

Guys...
This is brake job 101 stuff, and it has not changed in 75 years.
Please be careful when working on brakes.
Let's not cause more damage than we are trying to repair.
Not preaching or anything, but sharing good basic brake procedure info.
Let's all do the job right the first time.

[60Stude]

What a great group, thanks to EVERYONE for your sage advice! Yes my shop guy stopped before anything bad happened. I knew there had to be something different about these because they would not come out easily. I replaced a couple on my son's '77 Nova and had no difficulty at all. I'll let you know how this goes for me. I learn something new everyday working on these old cars!

[TMAN0950]

I just went to flanged axles so I had to remove all my studs also. I drilled them from the back. I center punched it as close to center as I could then used a 1/4" bit and drilled down about 3/4" and then changed to 1/2" bit and drilled it down about 3/4" then I used a 9/16 bit and drilled down about 1/2" then I took a hammer and hit the front of the stud and they broke right off and most of the time the head inside fell off to but if not a small tap with a punch and it all fell out. A guy at the machine shop told me to try it and it worked for me.

[60Stude]

I'm getting frustrated with this rear hub. I cut the old studs off and drilled them out, then knocked the remainder out with a drift like was suggested. That actually went well. Carquest ordered me new studs, and was going to press them in. I went to pick the hub up today, and he said they are .030 too big for the hole in the hub. He said they are the part number in the catalog for my car. I called another guy I know at a machine shop in Albuquerque. He said he can't drill/machine the hub out to make them fit. I'm not a machinist (otherwise I'd have this fixed!) but it seems like you should be able to measure the stud diameter vs. the hole diameter and machine the hole out just under the size of the stud, and press it in! I've been hung up on this for a couple weeks now. I decided it was time to come back here to the forum and ask for advice on what to do next! I want to be driving this on Drive Your Studebaker Day!

[63 R2 Hawk]

If it were me, I would not mess with the holes in the hub/drum, I would take .014" or so off the diameter of the studs for a press fit into the existing holes. You will probably have to swage the studs to the drum. I drove my Hawk for 7 years with one rear drum not swaged to the hub and never had a bit of problem with it, never knew it was that way until I pulled on the drum one day while rotating my wheels.

[RadioRoy]

What a great group, thanks to EVERYONE for your sage advice!

You mean "swage" advice?

[Studebaker1962]

I paid $75 to R & R 10 studs on my rear drums at a local shop. Dropped off the drums with new studs from a SDC supplier, went to have have lunch and then picked them up. Why fool around and bust a knuckle and having spent money on a tool you probably will never use again