I'm contemplating picking up a 1960-62 Lark 4 door wagon and restifying it as a daily driver and am aware of the undercar master cylinder on the 1960 model. Is it feasible/practical to install a 1961+ swinging brake pedal assembly to place the master cylinder on the firewall?
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Is it feasible to install a swinging brake pedal on a 1959-60 Lark type?
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I think I've got a complete '64 Daytona manual transmission swinging pedal takeout. Are you thinking manual or automatic trans? Automatic brake pedal is cake. The clutch is a bit more work as it should be converted to hydraulic master cylinder and throwout bearing.
jack vinesPackardV8
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My opinion, spend your time and money on other stuff on the car.
You'll get used to the under floor stuff quickly enough. That's one of the good things about the human body, if left to itself, it learns to adapt.
Been driving my 59, 2dr wagon almost daily for going on 12 years now. The first few miles were a bit odd, after that...no big deal.
Mike
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Jack, if you use the Daytona pedal set and convert to a hydraulic master/slave for the clutch, that would save me a lot of headaches with my 60 Lark. It will have a T5 with a Centerforce PP. Checking on Summit, there are hydraulic throwout bearings for the T5, One, the Howe, is about $130. All the others, Mcleod, are $400 to $500. Have you used either?sigpic
JohnP, driving & reviving
60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr
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Originally posted by allstateguy View PostJack, if you use the Daytona pedal set and convert to a hydraulic master/slave for the clutch, that would save me a lot of headaches with my 60 Lark. It will have a T5 with a Centerforce PP. Checking on Summit, there are hydraulic throwout bearings for the T5, One, the Howe, is about $130. All the others, Mcleod, are $400 to $500. Have you used either?
jack vinesPackardV8
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You will most likely have to reinforce the firewall on an early Lark if you go to swing pedals...otherwise, the pedal is always going to feel "spongy".
OTOH, the underfloor Lark and Hawk pedals are actually mounted to the frame and are quite stiff. There is no lost motion in applying the brakes (or clutch). Porsche still uses this method I believe. For the hydraulic clutch, just siamese another Lark M/C (less residual check valve) next to the brake M/C. Attach them both with the same through bolts. Then a relatively simple linkage from the clutch pedal direct to the new clutch M/C.Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA
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Dick,
I've been thinking over the ups and downs of clutch and brakes (ha!) for years now, using the forum to push my sails one way or the other. I know the 60 firewall is a weak point and would need help to put pedals up against it. But I'm also tired of laying underneath the car, fighting the dirt, spiders, and really tight fits of things to try and connect brake lines, etc. Haven't made up my mind yet, but convenience may win out, if I can see a fairly easy, sturdy way to get the pedals and the reinforcement into place.
Jack,
Thanks for the concentric slave cylinder advice. Sure would save some nickels. I'm guessing a 3/4" master would pump it correctly?sigpic
JohnP, driving & reviving
60 Lark & 58 Scotsman 4dr
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Originally posted by Dick Steinkamp View PostYou will most likely have to reinforce the firewall on an early Lark if you go to swing pedals...otherwise, the pedal is always going to feel "spongy".
OTOH, the underfloor Lark and Hawk pedals are actually mounted to the frame and are quite stiff. There is no lost motion in applying the brakes (or clutch). Porsche still uses this method I believe. For the hydraulic clutch, just siamese another Lark M/C (less residual check valve) next to the brake M/C. Attach them both with the same through bolts. Then a relatively simple linkage from the clutch pedal direct to the new clutch M/C.Originally posted by allstateguy View PostDick,
I've been thinking over the ups and downs of clutch and brakes (ha!) for years now, using the forum to push my sails one way or the other. I know the 60 firewall is a weak point and would need help to put pedals up against it. But I'm also tired of laying underneath the car, fighting the dirt, spiders, and really tight fits of things to try and connect brake lines, etc. Haven't made up my mind yet, but convenience may win out, if I can see a fairly easy, sturdy way to get the pedals and the reinforcement into place.
Jack,
Thanks for the concentric slave cylinder advice. Sure would save some nickels. I'm guessing a 3/4" master would pump it correctly?--------------------------------------
Sold my 1962; Studeless at the moment
Borrowed Bams50's sigline here:
"Do they all not, by mere virtue of having survived as relics of a bygone era, amass a level of respect perhaps not accorded to them when they were new?"
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i think i'd leave it where it is. rebuild the M/C if needed and maybe go with a disc brake upgrade from Mr. Turner for better braking response.
from what i've seen, the discs will help just as well or more than "power" drums - at a lower cost for parts and your labor.
if i'm wrong, let me know - that is on my to do "list" with the '51.Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.
'51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.
'40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.
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If you would use a chunk of firewall from a '63/4 T Cab be careful of the column where it comes through as they changed the steering boxes and your earlier box may not fit the offset. I really don't know why you couldn't piece in a '61-'66 Lark style firewall even though the cowls were slightly different.
Rob in PA.
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