Transmission / Overdrive: 700 R4 conversion

[toastervet]

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit a 700r4 in a 53 commander without sheet metal modification?

[Mike Van Veghten]

The "search" button is your friend..

You may find a LOT of reading on this same subject..

Mike

[wittsend]

I'm far from being an expert, but from my few years here it seems like there is a lot of similarity between the Studebaker models (frame/floor wise). I put a 700R4 in a '64 Daytona. Initially it looked like there would be issues down the back bone (center line of the transmission tunnel). It also appeared that the point where the upper tunnel merged (at a near 90 degree angle) into the firewall there would be clearance issues too.

I took a sledge hammer down the centerline of the tunnel. It created about an extra inch or so of clearance. My reason was I only want to have to put the transmission in - once. However, after it was installed there was significant clearance. I also has sufficient clearance at the firewall which I did not modify. It may be that the clearance helped with the installation process, but I does not seem to be needed once "installed." Thus, I had wished I hadn't hammered the tunnel. Finally, please note that this was with a SB Chevy engine.

Someone else will have to confirm the similarities (or differences) between your '53 and my '64 floor/frame.

Tom

[sweetolbob]

I'm far from being an expert, but from my few years here it seems like there is a lot of similarity between the Studebaker models (frame/floor wise). I put a 700R4 in a '64 Daytona. Initially it looked like there would be issues down the back bone (center line of the transmission tunnel). It also appeared that the point where the upper tunnel merged (at a near 90 degree angle) into the firewall there would be clearance issues too.

I took a sledge hammer down the centerline of the tunnel. It created about an extra inch or so of clearance. My reason was I only want to have to put the transmission in - once. However, after it was installed there was significant clearance. I also has sufficient clearance at the firewall which I did not modify. It may be that the clearance helped with the installation process, but I does not seem to be needed once "installed." Thus, I had wished I hadn't hammered the tunnel. Finally, please note that this was with a SB Chevy engine.

Someone else will have to confirm the similarities (or differences) between your '53 and my '64 floor/frame.

Tom

I'm setting here trying to recall all the issues with the SBC/700R4 I put in my 54K. Tom's description is close to what I recall. I looked at a couple of pictures I have and it is a close fit and will depend on the trans to rear end angle. Mine was tight to the tunnel and I made a couple of mods to the area close to the drives feet as well as the area in the tunnel to firewall interface. The other area that needed modification was the tunnel in the rear seat area needed to be raised when I went to the one piece drive shaft.

It's not major surgery but it will take a massage or two.

Bob

[studegary]

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit a 700r4 in a 53 commander without sheet metal modification?

I think that it may make a difference if the 1953 Commander is a C/K coupe or a sedan. The C/K is a lower car and the wheelbase is longer than the sedan.

[candbstudebakers]

Might not be a problem if using a SBC and the 700r4 but if you are using the 700R4 with an adapter to a Studebaker block then you will need to alter the floor pan at the firewall, the adapter is quite large around at the top.

[5brown1]

700r4

I put a 700r4 in the Speedster using an adapter from the guys in Omaha. I had the short part of the 2 piece drive shaft shortened so I did not need any modification to the drive line tunnel. I did have to do a small bit of bending on the passenger side of the area where the floor meets the firewall at the tunnel to get some clearance. I believe I also cut some extra metal from the other side of the adapter also - but no big deal. I used a 1/'2 spacer on top of the crossmember for mounting the rear of the transmission and have not noticed any vibration from the drive shaft.

The area on the adapter which needed to be cut down is directly below the two sending units on the rear of the head on the passenger side. You can see in the picture that there is quite a bit that can be removed.
You also have to modify the crossmember to allow for clearance for the transmission pan.

[DEEPNHOCK]

Nice pic's and description.
How did you address the TV cable, TV cable mount, and TV cable hookup to the carb (assuming you ran an Edelbrock AFB)???
Others would like to, or will need to know....
Jeff

I put a 700r4 in the Speedster using an adapter from the guys in Omaha. I had the short part of the 2 piece drive shaft shortened so I did not need any modification to the drive line tunnel. I did have to do a small bit of bending on the passenger side of the area where the floor meets the firewall at the tunnel to get some clearance. I believe I also cut some extra metal from the other side of the adapter also - but no big deal. I used a 1/'2 spacer on top of the crossmember for mounting the rear of the transmission and have not noticed any vibration from the drive shaft.

The area on the adapter which needed to be cut down is directly below the two sending units on the rear of the head on the passenger side. You can see in the picture that there is quite a bit that can be removed.
You also have to modify the crossmember to allow for clearance for the transmission pan.

[Swifster]

Use a 4L60E and eliminate the TV cable.

[PackardV8]

Use a 4L60E and eliminate the TV cable.

IIRC, the 4L60E refers to "Electronic" and requires a fairly high-dollar (to a CASO) box and wiring to do away with the essentially free TV cable and linkage.

jack vines

[5brown1]

TV Cable

I used an aftermarket TV cable which the rebuilder included with the transmission. I made a mount for the cable from a Chevy mount I got at the salvage yard and modified. And yes I am using an Edelbrock 1403 and have the bracket which gives it the proper angles. Since I took this picture I have modified the tv cable retaining bracket again and moved it closer to the firewall to allow more adjustment.
I am presently having an issue with the transmission as it will not shift into 4th gear. I don't know if it is related to my brackets or ??. I will be calling the rebuilder for suggestions.

[Swifster]

IIRC, the 4L60E refers to "Electronic" and requires a fairly high-dollar (to a CASO) box and wiring to do away with the essentially free TV cable and linkage.

jack vines

Jack, I'm not a CASO. And I look at it as 'idiot' proofing the trans. A misadjusted TV cable will burn up the trans. The 'box' allows more adjustment than the TV cable as well. But needing the trans to take 500 ft-lbs of torque, I'll be beefing up the internals as well.

[Dan White]

Look to use the 2004R instead of 700R4. Better gear ratios and smaller trans. Great unit if rebuilt properly. Was used behind Buick GN so plenty beefy.

[DEEPNHOCK]

I see from your pic you had to use a carb base adapter to raise the carb high enough to clear the TV linkage.
Let us know what your results are.
Jeff

I used an aftermarket TV cable which the rebuilder included with the transmission. I made a mount for the cable from a Chevy mount I got at the salvage yard and modified. And yes I am using an Edelbrock 1403 and have the bracket which gives it the proper angles. Since I took this picture I have modified the tv cable retaining bracket again and moved it closer to the firewall to allow more adjustment.
I am presently having an issue with the transmission as it will not shift into 4th gear. I don't know if it is related to my brackets or ??. I will be calling the rebuilder for suggestions.

[studeguy54]

A perspective on the 700-R4 swap

Does anyone know if there is enough room to fit a 700r4 in a 53 commander without sheet metal modification?

I have a 54 Champion coupe with a 350 Chevy 700-R4 combo, one piece driveshaft, Ford 9" rear. Used a junkyard TV cable bracket on an Edelbrock Manifold and 1403 carburetor. You have to study the position of the engine for the engine and transmission to clear the tunnel. My engine is offset about 1/2" away from the steering gear, and uses block-hugger headers, but everything clears except the fuel pump (we had to notch the frame). I don't know if the transmission hump is different on a sedan, but I would bet not.

The other guy's problem of the trasmission not shifting into 4th can be fixed with a kit (I'm not sure of the name, but can dig into the depths of my garage and find the name if he wants it). The kit includes a vacuum-operated switch that fits into the transmission and takes the place of the computer to decide when it shifts into 4th.

Drop me a note if you need information at studeguy54@verizon.net