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  • rear end

    well just took delivery of my 62 Hawk noticed right off I have some oil leaking from rear end where driveshaft goes in it was leaking from what appears to be a seal of somekind but was dark when the car carrier took it off the top deck so did some checking around underneath saw no rust and looks the the exhaust was welded from the front to back and in good shape. no power steering noticed that right away and rough idle. But was charging and 60lb oil pressure and didnt overheat when its 88 degrees outside. No knocks no smoke but tomorrow will open up the hood and have a look at everything.So far very happy

    62 GT Hawk

  • #2
    I am going to need some help on what oil for engine and on the trans if i should replace and with what and the rear end what oil to put in there. I am going to start with changes in fluids, brakes seem very good so probably wont mess with that didnt see any wheel cylinders leaking but will look more later.

    62 GT Hawk

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    • #3
      Gordy... have you got a Shop Manual for your Hawk?[B)] Most Stude vendors have them and they are invaluable for this type of info.

      <h5>Mark
      '57 Transtar
      3E-6/7-122
      </h5>

      Mark Hayden
      '66 Commander

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      • #4
        I am looking for one but so far havent got one any ideas would like a motors manual had those in old days they worked pretty good

        62 GT Hawk

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        • #5
          You can get a shop manual for your Hawk from many of these vendors...





          See page 11 of SI's catalog...



          There is an original on eBay now...



          The leaking seal would be the PINION SEAL. It is available from many of the above vendors or your local auto parts store since the rear end is a relatively common Dana 44.

          Trans oil will depend if it is a stick or automatic. Rear end oil will depend if it is a TT or open. Do a search on this forum for engine oil recommendations. Essentially you'll want the last generation of diesel engine oil.


          Dick Steinkamp
          Bellingham, WA

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          • #6
            quote:
            ......I have some oil leaking from rear end where driveshaft goes in it was leaking from what appears to be a seal of somekind but was dark when the car carrier took it off the top deck......
            That might be your front pinion seal. I have a similar situation on the Commander. We rebuilt a 3.31 to put under the Commander that had a fairly good seal. It's got a pretty slowwww drip or weep to it to the point where the fluid needs to be checked about every couple of months, with the car driven daily. If I remember right that required the pulling of the carrier to get to that critter, so we thought "if it ain't broke, dont fix it". Your decisions will vary .




            1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
            1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
            [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
            [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
            [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00002.jpg?t=1171153180[/img=left]
            [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
            1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
            1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
            1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
            1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

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            • #7
              quote:Originally posted by PlainBrownR2
              If I remember right that required the pulling of the carrier to get to that critter
              Pinion seal replacement is about a half hour job. Seal is about $12. Carrier doesn't need to be removed. No need to put up with a leaking seal.


              Dick Steinkamp
              Bellingham, WA

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              • #8
                You can also get manuals on CD-Rom. These are only $24.99 and include the factory service manuals and both parts manuals. They also usually have a copy of the owners manual and the accessories booklet. Print off the section you need when you need it and never greasy finger prints. They are available from the Studebaker vendors and directly from ClassicManuals.net

                ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
                Tom - Valrico, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $1794.98)

                Tom - Bradenton, FL

                1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
                1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD

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                • #9
                  How can I check to see if it has a positraction rear end or not?

                  62 GT Hawk

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                  • #10
                    quote:Originally posted by Gordy911

                    How can I check to see if it has a positraction rear end or not?
                    62 GT Hawk
                    Twin Traction rear ends originally had two tags fastened under the differential cover bolts, one for the ratio and one to indicate Twin Traction. However, since those sometimes are missing, just jack up the rear until both wheels are off the ground. With the tranny in neutral and the brakes off (and the front wheels blocked), turn one wheel. If the other wheel turn the same direction, it is a TT. If they turn in opposite directions, you have an open rear end (non-TT).
                    Notice I say Twin Traction rather than positraction. Positraction is a later GM name for their version of a limited slip rear end (sort of like everyone calling a tissue Kleenex). SP introduced TT in 1956.


                    [img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/R-4.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64L.JPG[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/64P.jpg[/img=right][img=right]http://www.frontiernet.net/~thejohnsons/Forum%20signature%20pix/53K.jpg[/img=right]Paul Johnson
                    '53 Commander Starliner (since 1966)
                    '64 Daytona Wagonaire (original owner)
                    '64 Daytona Convertible (2006)
                    Museum R-4 engine
                    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
                    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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                    • #11
                      If the tag is missing, the easy way is to pull the filler plug and stick your finger in the hole. If it hits the carrier close to the hole, it's a posi.

                      JDP/Maryland
                      64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
                      64 GT R2
                      63 Lark 2 door
                      52 & 53 Starliner
                      51 Commander
                      39 Coupe express
                      39 Coupe express (rod)

                      JDP Maryland

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                      • #12
                        Thanks i will do that and see what it looks like I didnt see any tags but will stick my pinky in the hole and see what gives.

                        62 GT Hawk

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                        • #13
                          I picked up a pinion seal and also a speedy sleeve. How or what is the best way to tell if I need to install the sleeve just by how worn the shaft is?

                          62 GT Hawk

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                          • #14
                            If the yoke the seal rides on has a groove worn in it you need the sleeve.



                            quote:Originally posted by Gordy911

                            I picked up a pinion seal and also a speedy sleeve. How or what is the best way to tell if I need to install the sleeve just by how worn the shaft is?

                            62 GT Hawk
                            Frank van Doorn
                            Omaha, Ne.
                            1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                            1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                            1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Generally speaking, if your shaft has a groove in it that is more than .005" deep (or you can catch your fingernail in it) you need a Speedi-Sleeve. If you do decide on a Speedi-Sleeve, be triple sure to read and understand the instructions about installation. They are only .011" thick and the pinion seal can handle that much additional shaft diameter. If your groove is nasty bad, you can put a little Permatex #1 (hardening) gasket sealer on the groove as you install the Speedi-Sleeve. The sleeve will squeegee off the excess, and the Permatex will fill in the groove and keep the seal lip pressure from deflecting the sleeve into the groove. Just make sure you remove the installation flange or it will get in the way and also prevent diff lube from lubricating the seal lip.
                              Hope the info helps.
                              Jeff[8D]



                              quote:Originally posted by Gordy911

                              I picked up a pinion seal and also a speedy sleeve. How or what is the best way to tell if I need to install the sleeve just by how worn the shaft is?

                              62 GT Hawk
                              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                              Jeff


                              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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