Rear Axle: rear leaf spring modification help???

[Deadbodyman]

hey guys,

If you've seen my other thread we are dropping a GM rear into the 49 R5 to sit behind the 350 small block.

We want to lower the rear using lowering blocks, but we are running into problems.

We want to use the chevy rear, but maintain the stude's rear leaf springs.

The problem is that stude's leaf spring pack is like at least 12 leafs, and we are having problems finding u bolts long enough for the blocks, larger axle tube, and springs.

The question is since i have so many leafs, would it be harmful to remove a few and if so which ones??? Also whats the best way to to do it? me nor my father have done it before.

Here is a pic of what i'm dealing with!

[41 Frank]

If you are not planning on hauling any loads of brick, sand or manure you could just remove the overload spring set which is not needed in a strictly for fun vehicle.

[Carl Purdy]

I took the overloads off and the 4th leaf from the top out.

[Alan]

Some spring shops have a machine that bends up new U-bolts, about $5 apiece. But I would remove a few of the odd numbered leafs.

[Neal in NM]

I went to http://mcbridesinc.com/ in Albuquerque and had them make new U-bolts for the front end of my '47 M16. They did it while I waited! I have had them make odd size U-bolts in the past, as long as they have the material and the dies they can make whatever size combination you want. Neal

[sweetolbob]

I went to http://mcbridesinc.com/ in Albuquerque and had them make new U-bolts for the front end of my '47 M16. They did it while I waited! I have had them make odd size U-bolts in the past, as long as they have the material and the dies they can make whatever size combination you want. Neal

Most any local enterprise that deals with trucks will have the threaded stock that they form into about any length and rod diameter you want. If they don't have the proper length to form, it's available so they can get it. A-1 Truck close to my house will do it while you wait as stated above and the cost is less that I could buy them for over the net.

Bob

[GCurtis]

Put a chrysler rear in a 53 once and actually turned the rear spring mounting bracket upside down basically so the rear eyelet was above the frame instead of below it. We also removed the overlads as well. Worked out fine and the truck rode and drove great.

[Deadbodyman]

thanks everyone, we're going over wed. and we're going to take a look at it again, do some measuring and see what will work best for us. thanks for everyone's imput though, it helped!

[Deadbodyman]

my father and i have removed the rear axle from the springs and we are starting to gameplan the this lowering job. When we removed all the stuff we werent sure how the springs come apart. How do we seperate the leaf packs?? the only clamp is at the very top 2 leafs. and its got like a pin through them.

Anyone with suggestions for us would be appreciated!

[Mike Van Veghten]

To answer your question, there's a single fastener in the center of the spring pack. When this is removed, it all falls apart...!

What I would do...
1. Remove the "flat" (overload) spring leaves from the bottom of the pack, see the center fastener noted above. Only do this if you're not going to carry heavy items.
2. No longer than 2" lowering blocks.
3. Have U-bolts made if required.

Note, before you remove the center fastener...put a C-clamp in it's place as when you remove the nut, the springs may seperate hard enough to wack a finger hard enough to hurt..!

Mike

[blackhawk]

Deadbodyman,

I can't get to my stack of used springs to measure them. Aren't the rear leaf springs on your '49 R5 narrower than those used on later models? I have a '61 Champ 1/2 ton pickup. I think the rear leaf springs are wider than those used on the earlier models. I sure could be wrong about this, but if they are truly wider, you might try adapting the wider leaf springs to your R5. Fewer wide leaves may be needed to support the same weight as a given stack of narrow spring leaves.

~ Dale

[Deadbodyman]

They are more narrow then what was on the donor rear. Buy id rather not take the springs too. Id have to modify the shackles or mounts on the frame and it seems like a lot more work and engineering then its worth. Besides i think they are less then a 1/4 difference.

[Deadbodyman]

hey mike, all your suggestions worked. It was a bolt, it was just so wore down, rusted and rounded off, we had to cut it. Which is no big deal we need to get a shorter one now anyway. But all your recommendations helped thanks!