pulling the hubs from a tapered axle.....

[StudeRich]

I have a different approach Kent, instead of fighting the drum & hub assy. you pull the diff. cover and look to see if the Michigan weather and rust have done-in the inside like they have the outside. Then you could send the whole thing on it's way to Korea or Japan to be made into a Kia or Honda, if it's toast and save yourself a lot of trouble!

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[showbizkid]

Maybe if nothing else works, cut the swages on the studs to get the drum off and then access the hub directly?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[rusty nut garage]

heat is your friend. The problem with your puller is that the hub being removed is coverd. If it were exposed I'd put the puller on and under extreme pressure heat the hub with a torch. That will do it every time.
Russ

quote:Originally posted by 54-61-62

Decided to change the rear end in my 62 hardtop to get a more-driving friendly gear ratio.

Went out to my parts pile and pulled a 3.31 TT model 27 off a parts lark. So far so good....till I try to get the hub off! I broke my aftermarket correct style puller trying to get it off, but it wouldn't budge. I fabricated a very heavy duty puller myself and the darn thing still won't budge, even lightly cautiously warming the hub with a torch and tapping.

Anyways, any thoughts here guys? The is the only rear axle I have in the ratio I want....but it won't come apart! Guess the rust gremlin of a South Bend parts lark is preventing then to come off...grrrrr.

Just to make sure I wasn't jinxed, I went and pulled a couple hubs off other rear axles (but dosent do me any good since they aren't the ratio I need)

Anyone in Michigan or South Bend area have a model 27 3.31TT rear with the hubs already off?

Kent

Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
57 SH (project)
60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

[Transtar60]

Even the 194 six in my 65 Commander developed enough torque to rip some of the teeth off the Dana 27's ring gear. This was back in 1986, right after putting a rebuilt carb on the six.


3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28
4E2
59 Lark
etc

[skyway]

I'd like to second Chuck's concerns. Although 27 rear ends did show up in 259 cars, they are a bit weak for spirited driving. Also the 27 TT's are even weaker. The death knell would be something like spinning the tires on ice or gravel or such, and then suddenly reaching solid ground. Bang and ye Bye spider gears!

[Chucks Stude]

Isn't a Dana 27, the rear end off of a 6 cyl. engine? I tore one up with my V-8, and I was not driving it hard. Or is my recollection just bad. If I am totally wrong about this, I apologize in advance, and repeatedly. Chuck

[cortica37]

I found that there was no way I could reason with the stupid rear drum on my 40 Champ - so I used a standard lug bolt puller, a 1/2" drive socket and a four-foot length of pipe. I placed as much load as I could on the puller and let it sit overnight. The next morning I once again put as much torque on the puller as I could without going real crazy. I again left it overnight and did the same again the next morning. That did it; it released with a big bang. Probably one of the few times I had used patience and it worked!

Cork in Rustbelt Falls, MN

[gordr]

Kent, that's real clever idea, using an old front hub as a means of attaching the puller to the drum. Good thinking!

I'm wondering if you couldn't modify your design to incorporate the puller screw and nut from your old broken puller. If I'm guessing right, it's the forged disk that the puller legs hang off that broke. Ask me how I came to guess that!

Also be sure to put the axle nut on backwards, flush with the end of the axle thread, to reduce the chance of mushrooming the thread.

Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

[Guido]

quote:Originally posted by bams50 Sure it does! Just blast the puller with a sledge hammer right at the base of the jack, picturing the jack piston's centerline.

Jim is right that you need the steel on steel "shock". Also, if you try Bob's method make sure that your foot is not under that jack. One whack with the BFH and it will probably compress enough to drop to the floor. [:0]

[Rerun]

quote:Sure it does! Just blast the puller with a sledge hammer right at the base of the jack, picturing the jack piston's centerline.

The sharpness of the shock of the hammer blow will reduced since it will be transmitted through the hydraulic fluid under the piston. There's no substitute for steel on steel.


Jim Bradley
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by Rerun

Your puller will generate tonnage, but that is often not the whole solution. I have had hubs that have stood up to high pulling tonnage, but would not release until a sharp, heavy rap was applied to the end of the screw of the puller. Your puller design does not allow for that.

Sure it does! Just blast the puller with a sledge hammer right at the base of the jack, picturing the jack piston's centerline.

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

[whacker]

Just give it the most stress you can and let it sit overnight. Go out there before you turn in, and make sure it is under as much pull as you can give it, then rap it a few times with a BFH. Try it again in the morning. It will break loose eventually.

[Rerun]

Your puller will generate tonnage, but that is often not the whole solution. I have had hubs that have stood up to high pulling tonnage, but would not release until a sharp, heavy rap was applied to the end of the screw of the puller. Your puller design does not allow for that.

I would go back to the "conventional" style of puller, torque it up then apply the BFH to the end of the screw. Soaking the joint overnight with Kroil or PB blaster can only help, as well.

Does the drum rotate, or are the brake shoes possibly rusted to the drum? Make sure that the adjuster is backed off completely.

Jim Bradley
'64 Daytona HT "Rerun"

[55s]

Kent:

I can't see what's on the top of your puller.

I loosen off the big cetre wheel nut until its halfway off, but I keep it on the threads to protect the axle shaft threads. I then attach the puller to the wheel nuts and go to it, and I OFTEN have to use a sledge to shock/move it. It moves about 1/2 inch with a BANG, then it is easy from there.

Sometimes the brakes are locked on - especially if someone left the parking brake on when it was left.

Your puller looks like it should work, but not sure how many tons are required.

Congrats on selling your Lark. I should be following your lead.

Paul

[sbca96]

Did you try swearing at it?

The only things that have worked for me is LOTS of torque on the tool
and at least a 2 pound sledge. One I removed years ago, I used a five
foot long cheater bar, made up of larger and larger tubes, on the end
of a Craftsmen socket. I was bouncing on the end .. snap!! Leave the
nut on, loose obviously, so the tool doesnt land in another zip code.

EDIT: OH! The sledge is to hit the end of the tool, transfer shock
to the axle and hopefully break it loose. Have the axle shafts checked
for cracks WHENEVER you have them out.

Tom

quote:Originally posted by 54-61-62
I fabricated a very heavy duty puller myself and the darn thing still won't budge...

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires