Installing a blow through electric fuel pump on an Avanti

[64V-K7]

Soooo, let me throw something in here..... Supposin' you've met all the above requirements ( Fuel pump, heat isolators, steel lines, heat insulation up the bazoo, new everything including engine, Pertronix, Edelbrock 500, .....and it still wont start hot.....whaddaya do/look at ?

[Gunslinger]

Soooo, let me throw something in here..... Supposin' you've met all the above requirements ( Fuel pump, heat isolators, steel lines, heat insulation up the bazoo, new everything including engine, Pertronix, Edelbrock 500, .....and it still wont start hot.....whaddaya do/look at ?

Ya look at getting a new car!

[Bullet]

Another question in this dialogue.....

If you have a mechanical fuel pump on a 289 Lark (64) and have an electric fuel pump by the frame on near the right rear wheel. Can you run both for extended periods of time with out damaging either? I am driving to SB and my car vapor locks (2 brl carb, rebuilt) I was thinking I would just run the electric pump full time when I am driving.

thoughts?


Mark

[Gunslinger]

I would think you could as long as you had a pressure regulator between them...carburetors use far less fuel pressure than most electric pumps operate at.

If you plan on using the electric pump full time, why not simply bypass (or eliminate) the mechanical pump altogether?

[bezhawk]

Soooo, let me throw something in here..... Supposin' you've met all the above requirements ( Fuel pump, heat isolators, steel lines, heat insulation up the bazoo, new everything including engine, Pertronix, Edelbrock 500, .....and it still wont start hot.....whaddaya do/look at ?

Ya look at removing insulation from your "bazoo"

[Hawklover]

I spoke to the head marketing tech at SunOco........a Mike Miller.........he confirmed that even Sun 110 leaded race fuel has a significantly lessened fuel boiling point. Gas today is so vastly different than the gas we enjoyed when our Studes roamed the country side as new...Mr. Miller told me the situation will only continue to get worse for cars with carbs as the yrs go on:-(

Yep. Yep. Yep.

[JoeHall]

I would think you could as long as you had a pressure regulator between them...carburetors use far less fuel pressure than most electric pumps operate at.

If you plan on using the electric pump full time, why not simply bypass (or eliminate) the mechanical pump altogether?

I have ran (Mazda type) electric pumps exclusively, and have not ran a mechanical FP on a Stude since the late 1980s. I take the mechanical off and install a plate over the mount hole. Some folks are concerned with being judged, so have ran the electrical through the mechanical to maintain aesthetics, and others have "dummied out" the mechanical, so it still looks functional but isn't.
The way I avoid being judged, is to judge the car myself before pulling out of the driveway. Then when I run into someone at a meet passing judgement of my car, I usually ask where their's is. That usually shortens the conversation, since most of those folks don't have theirs present, don't drive it, or do not even own a Stude currently

[64V-K7]

From my experience, most electric solenoid or rotary vane pumps can be run continuously and there are units available that do not need a regulator. You can run them in tandem with the mechanical pump. The type you cannot use with your mechanical pump is a gear rotor type ( looks like an in/out cylinder) . Those will not allow your mechanical pump to draw fuel thru them if they're off. I like having both a mechanical and a switched electric for redundancy.

[SN-60]

I've never had a vapor lock issue in a post '54 Studebaker, and the idea of adding a 'band-aid' electric pump troubles Me. But if the available pump gas keeps getting worse, I wonder if I'll have to 'join the club'?

[WCP]

When Dougsoldcars referred to a "blow-through" pump, he was referring to what I normally call a "pull-through" pump - no mystery there. I have always installed my Pull-through pumps on the right rear back of the forward side of the rear axle tunnel, with a ground wire attached. The pump is close-coupled with a fuel shutoff solenoid mounted beside. The wires to the pump and solenoid pass through the hole in the trunk floor in front of the fuel tank. Power for each is taken off the accessory side of the ignition switch, and through switches under the dash, a momentary one for the pump. Fuel line is routed to the right frame rail and over the cross-member to the pump and shutoff. From there, the fuel line picks up the regular supply line that runs across the cross-member to the left and forward on that frame rail.

[64V-K7]

I know where you're coming from. Our Chapter goes on regular tours and there are a number of those running cars with NO modifications that have NO or very infrequent issues. It really stymies me, but I've hit a roadblock and can't resolve the issue. The car has been sitting now for almost 2 years with only occasional runs 'around the block'..