I have a '53 6 cylinder automatic. The car can be running along on a 95 degree day or a 75 degree evening and stop dead in its tracks. The battery is usually low and with a jump it will restart and away we go only to do it again in 25 miles or 35 miles or whatever the mileage. The battery is 4 years old, tests good, but seems like it has had it. Battery goes dead in two weeks if car is just setting. Car turns over very slowly. The ampmeter will peg out to the right when the car is restarted. The headlights are very bright. What are the troubleshooting tips for this problem. The car has fuel in the glass bowl and I can turn on the electric pump for a few pulses if need be. The electric pump is handy if the car has been setting a long time. tips for playing dead ???.........brad
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Most auto parts stores can check the battery with a load tester. That will help determin if that is the problem. Look for loose connections. You have probably read the threads about 6 volt battery systems. They have a lot of excellent suggestions. Many of the batteries we get for 6 volt systems are designed for use in heavy equipment and just don't last as long as automotive batteries. They are designed for vibration compatabilities.
To see if your charging system is working, check the voltage of the battery with the car off and then with the car running. You should have a little over 6 with the engine off and around 8 with it running at high idle. You should also be able to disconnect the battery with the car running and it will continue to run if the charge system is working. It sounds like you are right on with the bad battery theory.
Rob
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Thanks for the troubleshooting tip. I am keeping these in a folder for now and future reference as I am not a mechanic. I am going to try your suggestions.......Bradquote:Originally posted by mapman
Most auto parts stores can check the battery with a load tester. That will help determin if that is the problem. Look for loose connections. You have probably read the threads about 6 volt battery systems. They have a lot of excellent suggestions. Many of the batteries we get for 6 volt systems are designed for use in heavy equipment and just don't last as long as automotive batteries. They are designed for vibration compatabilities.
To see if your charging system is working, check the voltage of the battery with the car off and then with the car running. You should have a little over 6 with the engine off and around 8 with it running at high idle. You should also be able to disconnect the battery with the car running and it will continue to run if the charge system is working. It sounds like you are right on with the bad battery theory.
Rob
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Today, I installed a new O'Reilly's battery. Changed the metal WIX fuel filter by the tank which had some particles of rust in it to a plastic one so I can easily see the dirt. It tried to die this pm while driving but came back to life. To get home I turned on the electric fuel pump and made it 3 more miles to home--maybe just a fluke. There is always fuel at the pump. I believe this is an electrical problem. Is something getting hot and opening up ??? The car is new to me since Memorial Day Weekend. I'm going to redo the distributor. Has anyone had good service from PERTRONIX systems ??? The water pump is seeping at the weep hole, so I will remove it and take it to O'Reilly's to be rebuilt which is about a 10 day turn around and fairly inexpensive...bradComment
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all of us Studebaker Vendors at studebakervendors.com have NEW ones for $10-15.00 more, and faster service and better than any re-build! No core involved, it's a no-brainer! [^]
(UPDATE: OH, it's a 6 cyl. well maybe $30.00 more but NEW!
StudeRichquote:Originally posted by bradnree
The water pump is seeping at the weep hole, so I will remove it and take it to O'Reilly's to be rebuilt which is about a 10 day turn around and fairly inexpensive...brad
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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Price please to 66002...thanks.....Bradquote:Originally posted by StudeRich
all of us Studebaker Vendors at studebakervendors.com have NEW ones for $10-15.00 more, and faster service and better than any re-build! No core involved, it's a no-brainer! [^]
(UPDATE: OH, it's a 6 cyl. well maybe $30.00 more but NEW!
StudeRichquote:Originally posted by bradnree
The water pump is seeping at the weep hole, so I will remove it and take it to O'Reilly's to be rebuilt which is about a 10 day turn around and fairly inexpensive...brad
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAComment
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Brad; The new ones I have in stock fit 54-64 6 Cyl. for $80.00 I see there is a 682630 '42-'53 Champion 170 NEW, I can have sent to you, also for $80.00 + postage. That's the one you need. Thanks for asking I do not promote stuff here, but it's OK you asked! email if interested. Rich.
StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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Is there a "search" option at Studebakervendors.com so that one doesn't have to wade the list. I guess this is why I may have deleted this bookmark some time ago. One gets in a rut and I have been useing ebay, catalog vendors, and local parts houses for parts. Are there any that wholesale as I repair many Studes.............Bradquote:Originally posted by StudeRich
all of us Studebaker Vendors at studebakervendors.com have NEW ones for $10-15.00 more, and faster service and better than any re-build! No core involved, it's a no-brainer! [^]
(UPDATE: OH, it's a 6 cyl. well maybe $30.00 more but NEW!
StudeRichquote:Originally posted by bradnree
The water pump is seeping at the weep hole, so I will remove it and take it to O'Reilly's to be rebuilt which is about a 10 day turn around and fairly inexpensive...brad
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAComment
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I'm glad you promoted this idea to me and it should be more than welcome on this site !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.....Bradquote:Originally posted by StudeRich
Brad; The new ones I have in stock fit 54-64 6 Cyl. for $80.00 I see there is a 682630 '42-'53 Champion 170 NEW, I can have sent to you, also for $80.00 + postage. That's the one you need. Thanks for asking I do not promote stuff here, but it's OK you asked! email if interested. Rich.
StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAComment
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Brad, my response to your email came back saying:
Remote host said: 550 Invalid recipient: <bradnree@ (/cut, I deleted that part here!)
twice. Is your security level set too high or something!
StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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When it dies I now know that the carb. is dry but the fuel pump glass bowl is full of fuel. I will check the fuel pump. May not be an electrical problem....BradComment
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Disconect the fuel line at the carb and run the electric pump when it fails. ( be careful to route the fuel to a safe spot) See if the fuel is coming when it is dead.Comment
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Mech. pump is a sometimes pump and has been replaced. The present elec. pump decided it would start being obnoxious with a very loud knock that would not stop and it was replaced. It appears that it was never an electrical problem. Oh the joys of retiring, surrounded by Studes. with "medical" problems. How does a bad dist. cap act and look ?? How does one test a coil ?? How does one test a condensor ?? How do bad points act ??....................BradComment
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LOL!..well; I can tell you how NOT to test a condenser. You put power to it, disconnect it then touch it!!! [:0]
StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WAStudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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In high school there was an electronics teacher who would charge up 1000 mfd caps and leave them laying around so someone could pick them up and get zapped. Of course he thought it was funny.quote: LOL!..well; I can tell you how NOT to test a condenser. You put power to it, disconnect it then touch it!!!
Jeff DeWittJeff DeWitt
http://carolinastudes.net
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