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Rusted Floor Deal Killer for '64 Commander?

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  • Rusted Floor Deal Killer for '64 Commander?

    Guys:

    Looking for some advice. I came across a '64 Studebaker Commander at a used car lot this week. From the outside the body appeared to be in good shape and it runs as I took it for a short test drive.

    However, in pulling up the mat and carpeting on the floor on the driver's side I could see the pavement underneath through a hole that where it had rusted out. The car appears to have been white originally judging from the trunk color though now it is light blue except for the hardtop which was left white.

    It has a V8 and automatic transmission. The seats are in poor condition but the headliner appears mostly intact.

    The asking price is $1500.

    Comments? Worth restoring? Is the hole (about 6" in diameter) floor a deal killer?

    Thanks
    Tom

  • #2
    If that one 'hole' is the only hole.. No, that shouldn't kill the deal.
    But if that 'hole' connects to the eleventeen other 'holes'... Then maybe you should reconsider.
    Also... Look close at the bottom of each frame rail near the front rear sprincg perch, and the bottom of the frame where it kicks up over the rear axle. Floor rust can mean that frame rust is also there...
    But floor rust can be from bad window seals and wet carpet, so look closely.
    Jeff[8D]



    quote:Originally posted by Tom

    Guys:

    Looking for some advice. I came across a '64 Studebaker Commander at a used car lot this week. From the outside the body appeared to be in good shape and it runs as I took it for a short test drive.

    However, in pulling up the mat and carpeting on the floor on the driver's side I could see the pavement underneath through a hole that where it had rusted out. The car appears to have been white originally judging from the trunk color though now it is light blue except for the hardtop which was left white.

    It has a V8 and automatic transmission. The seats are in poor condition but the headliner appears mostly intact.

    The asking price is $1500.

    Comments? Worth restoring? Is the hole (about 6" in diameter) floor a deal killer?

    Thanks
    Tom
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by hotwheels63r2

      You should wait and see if you could find a more rust free example.
      Tom's in Illinois. Chances are there is not a more rust free example.

      Post some pictures if you can, Tom. $1500 sounds good, but with pictures, we could probably help more.


      Dick Steinkamp
      Bellingham, WA

      Comment


      • #4
        I just sold a 66 sports sedan with rust issues for $500 and was happy to get it and it had NOS front fenders and bumpers. I still have a 4 speed GT Hawk with a new interior priced at $1500, but Bam's has first dibs.

        JDP/Maryland
        64 Daytona HT/R2 clone
        63 GT R2
        63 Lark 2 door
        62 Gt Hawk
        62 Lark 2 door
        60 Lark HT-60Hawk
        59 3E truck
        58 Starlight
        52 & 53 Starliner
        51 Commander

        JDP Maryland

        Comment


        • #5
          Without seeing it, I can tell you that on eBay it'd do probably $6-800. But it's worth a lot to not have to pay to ship... and worth a lot more that you can actually see and drive it before buying... so I'd say it's a little high, but not too bad when you factor in the above.

          Jeff is right about where to check for rust; I would add to look closely at the back vertical edge of the front fenders; and inside the trunk towards the back.

          Any of this is definitely fixable; but too many areas add up fast. Floors aren't a big deal to patch. If that's the extent of the rust, you're OK.

          The biggest factor may be how you feel about it. At that age, any car will need a fair to large amount of fussing to get/keep it serviceable. If you want a sweet old car that's different from modern cars, then go for it; they're all worth saving- 'cause they ain't makin' 'em no more!!

          Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
          Parish, central NY 13131
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

          Comment


          • #6
            Most Studebakers have gone "Flintstones" years ago, my dads '64 Hawk
            lost the drivers side floor at an early age. I think that I am MORE
            suprised to see a Studebaker WITH the floor intact!

            Tom

            quote:Originally posted by Tom
            However, in pulling up the mat and carpeting on the floor on the driver's side I could see the pavement underneath through a hole that where it had rusted out.
            '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

            Comment


            • #7
              Bein' as how it's in Illinois, it's been repainted at least once and it has obvious cancer in the floorboards - I'd be lookin' REAL HARD for any evidence of bondo in/on the outer sheet metal.
              Of course, there's STILL new fenders and doors available for this model and they're right reasonable in price too (the sheet metal pieces). It might be that you've found a car that someone hung fresh metal on.
              As has been said - look closely at the frame! Like's also been saide, a few holes in the floor - no big deal. If you like the car and it runs decent, I don't think $1500 is outta line myself.

              Miscreant adrift in
              the BerStuda Triangle


              1957 Transtar 1/2ton
              1960 Larkvertible V8
              1958 Provincial wagon
              1953 Commander coupe

              No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

              Comment


              • #8
                Tom,
                I'd look in the trunk. Check the floor around the wheel wells and the body mounts in the rear corners. Check up by the trunk rain gutter where the rear fenders bolt on and see if there is any rust through in that area. Check the area where the sail panel meets the rear fenders. Check the floors by the door hinge post. Rust through in that area is not at all uncommon and not terminal if it is confined to the immediate area. Front fenders should be spot welded to the aprons if they are originals. If they have been replaced they will usually be pop rivited or bolted to the aprons. I can't imagine a norhtern car (Mich?) surviving all this time.

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you're not willing to fix rust holes then Studebakers are the wrong hobby for you. I've NEVER seen a Studebaker that didn't have rust through somewhere on the car. I'm always amazed when I meet someone restoring a Studebaker that doesn't know how to weld.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Guys:

                    Thanks for all of your information. With your encouragement and the sharp eye of mechanic Greg Lentini who accompanied me I went ahead and bought the '64 Commander this afternoon.

                    The dealer allowed us to use his hoist to look under and around the car. It apparently was a Southwestern car since there was virtually no rust on the frame or body other than the small hole under the driver's side floor and the V8 sounded strong on a test drive. It was a daily driver until recently.

                    What it does need is a brake job which it will receive along with more minor things.

                    Tom

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      We want pictures! Someone once told me... No pictures, didn't happen! New man-rule: Post pictures whenever possible, or suffer the unnecessary questions and/or abuse! (Just kidding, welcome to the addiction, I mean hobby).

                      Las Vegas, NV
                      '51 Champion Business Coupe G899965 10G-Q4-1434

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Dunno about deal killer with a hole of that size in the driver's floor. As stated, one hole of that size may not be so bad. If the hole has neighboring holes and the floor looks like a spaghetti strainer I'd look for something in better condition for that price. Classic Enterprises has replacement panels for floors, all it takes is some welding, and some elbow grease. Now, is it a 2 door? Take a good look at the rocker panels. This can be a real killer on Northern vehicles in the rust belt. If they look like they're in good shape, that would sell me on the car. If they look like the same condition as the driver's floor, I would try and negoiate for lower price. The 2 door NOS rocker panels are a rare piece for the late model 2 door Larks. Classic Enterprises has them as well, but they're a thicker gauge, and from what I hear, require some real bending and shaping to put install. The rocker panels apparently are supposed to flex and pop into place due to a thinner gauge of sheetmetal.


                        1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                        1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
                        [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
                        [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
                        [img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00002.jpg?t=1171153180[/img=left]
                        [img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]
                        1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                        1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                        1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                        1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          quote:Originally posted by PlainBrownR2

                          I would try and negoiate for lower price.
                          Ummm... In my experience, there's usually not much of a chance for negotiating a lower price after you've already bought and paid for the car.................

                          Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
                          Parish, central NY 13131
                          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2358680/1

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I'd like to post photos of the '64 Commander if someone could clue me in on how to do that. I tried using the "Insert Image" box above but all it did was insert some HTML code into my message-it didn't allow me to browse for the file on my hard drive. I also tried to copy and paste the JPEG image but that didn't work either.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              The picture has to be "hosted" on the internet somewhere. SDC doesnt
                              have a upload site that I am aware of. You can use a free site like
                              some on here do, or your ISP might have an FTP for you to upload the
                              images on. If not, DeepinHock, JDP or myself can host them for you
                              if you email the images to one of us.

                              SBCA96@aol.com

                              Tom

                              quote:Originally posted by Tom

                              I'd like to post photos of the '64 Commander if someone could clue me in on how to do that.
                              '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                              Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                              http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                              I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                              Comment

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