R2 supercharger lube -- which type to get?

[Pete R]

The Studebaker shop manual calls for 8 oz. of "Type A automatic transmission fluid" for the Paxton supercharger on my '64 Avanti R2. Type A is pretty hard to get these days, but not impossible. Do people regularly substitute any of the more common types of fluid in their superchargers?

[41 Frank]

When I received my rebuilt supercharger from Ted Harbit it came with explicit instructions to use only Type "F" ATF and not put in "FA"
I got a quart at Advance Auto Parts.Put in 8 oz and recheck level after turning it some.

Frank van Doorn
1962 GT Hawk 4 speed
1963 Daytona Conv
1941 Champion R-2 Rod

[Mike]

I use type "F" atf, (not "FA"), from a Ford dealer. I just had them get a case for me recently. They don't keep it on hand, but can get it easily.
I think Ford type "F" was the last atf that Paxton tested and approved before they stopped supporting the ball drive superchargers.
Mike M.

[JDP]

The very best stuff is PAXTA TRAC fluid from Paradise Wheels.(Summit may have it too)

JDP/Maryland


63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
58 Starlight
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[PlainBrownR2]

I had a situation similar to this about a month ago when my Paxton went out. I was using Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic, as was recommended from an older Avanti magazine. DON'T use this oil in the blower by the way. Anyways I handed my blower off to T-Bow at the meet in May and asked him and Myers about fluids in the blower. They both recommended Type F, particularly Myers. He said the ball drives and races need to grip the shaft?(I never took one apart this far to see), and the Type F and Paxa Trac provide the additives to do this. With the Mobil 1 I was using, being a very slick oil, didnt provide anything in the way of additives to grip the balls and races like they needed. Well this was probably enough to cause the ball to slide from the properties of the oil, and wear a flat spot in the highly machined ball(s). After that it was downhill from there. So I would recommend Type F, Type A if you can find it, or Paxta Trac, as stated in previous posts.


1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
1950 Studebaker 2R5 with 170 turbocharged
[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00003.jpg?t=1171152673[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00009.jpg?t=1171153019[/img=right]
[img=left]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00002.jpg?t=1171153180[/img=left]
[img=right]http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t102/PlainBrownR2/DSC00005.jpg?t=1171153370[/img=right]

[StudeRich]

PBR2; This all sounds good and correct from what I have heard from those that REALLY know from first hand experience, EXCEPT DO NOT USE TYPE "A"!!! [xx(]

Any type "A" you could find today is NOT required to be up to S.A.E., API or OEM specs any longer, since it is obsolete and is GARBAGE! [xx(]

quote:Originally posted by PlainBrownR2

So I would recommend Type F, Type A if you can find it, or Paxta Trac, as stated in previous posts.

StudeRich Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[Karl]

Been using mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in all four of my Paxtons with no problems.Do change fluid at 3000 miles. The Paxta Trac is good stuff, just hard to come by.
5w-30 mobil 1 is noy the same stuff.

63 Twin Supercharged Avanti
64 Avanti R3w/NOS
88LSC Avanti 350 Supercharged w/NOS

[nels]

I also use the Mobil 1 synthetic and sware by it. Using standard fluid the blower would get so hot on trips that I couldn't even check the fluid level as I couldn't touch the dip stick. I tried Mobil 1 syntheic and the temp drop was dramatic. As we all know, heat is the enemy!

[N8N]

Red Line makes a synthetic Type-F, for what it's worth, they call it "Racing ATF." I've never tried it, and never owned a Paxton for that matter (well, that's not true- I had one for a while and sold it because I needed the $$, but I've never had one on a car) but I've had nothing but good experiences with their products. Might be the "best of both worlds." Their MT-90 is awesome; no more stirring-molasses shifter feel on cold mornings.

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[PlainBrownR2]

What is fine for the rest of you has been permanently condemned by me......
I used Mobil 1 for three years before the blower committed suicide. Changed it at every oil change as well. 100k they said with the use of the oil. The car just rolled over to 50k so this was probably about at the 35k mark when it got the blower. Two major rebuilders told me what they use ATF with one giving me an idea on how this bugger works inside. Rather than tempt fate again and throw another 500 dollars (this kinda thing could get expensive after too many go arounds), I'm going back to the KISS method, the tried and true ATF.

[Lenny R2]

I use type F in my R2 Avanti,I also completly drained the power
shift transmission & put type F in that also.I was told type F
Can take more heat.

Lenny

[nels]

I wouldn't condemn the synthetics due to one bad experience. I have gone through probably 25 blowers in my life using std ATF. ATF starts loosing lubrication ability after 250 F. THe old Paxtons and Mc's from the fifties even used engine oil piped into the motor in an attempt to cool them. At Bonneville they used oil coolers and piped the ATF through them with a pump. Today they sell coolers as options for longer life. As for the Paxatrac etc, I'm sure they are great but I know Paxton didn't formulate their blower fluid just rebottled some available fluid and marked it up. I'm sure it is synthetic and it has been around for way too long to still think nothing out there is any better. My opinion.

quote:Originally posted by PlainBrownR2

What is fine for the rest of you has been permanently condemned by me......
I used Mobil 1 for three years before the blower committed suicide. Changed it at every oil change as well. 100k they said with the use of the oil. The car just rolled over to 50k so this was probably about at the 35k mark when it got the blower. Two major rebuilders told me what they use ATF with one giving me an idea on how this bugger works inside. Rather than tempt fate again and throw another 500 dollars (this kinda thing could get expensive after too many go arounds), I'm going back to the KISS method, the tried and true ATF.

[Bills R2]

8N8,Red Line does not have a "Racing ATF" but has a "Synthetic ATF"
for" Dexron II applications". They also have a second product that is a higher viscosity. Don't recal the actuall label on that one.
I picked up a quart of the former and once I figure out how to drain this damd thing, I will give it a try.

'64 R2 back on da road again
POCI,SCCA,SIMTA

[N8N]

I'm getting the info. right from their web site:

http://redlineoil.com/products_gearlubricants.asp?productID=52&subCategoryID=18&categoryID=8

"Designed for use in racing automatic transmissions which need the positive shift of a Type-F automatic transmission fluid, Racing ATF contains no slipperiness additives, producing faster shifts and quicker lock-up, and can reduce elapsed time in drag racing...."

Summit sells it, RED-30304, $8.75/qt. I would assume Jeg's and Pegasus sell it as well...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight

http://members.cox.net/njnagel

[GTtim]

When I asked Jim Pepper, he recommended the Motorcraft type F because it has something to help it withstand high temperatures without breaking down. I went to the local Ford dealer, they didn't have it so I stopped by the FLAPS on the way home and got a bottle of Castrol type F which claims to have high heat capabilities.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk