Steering: Steering Wheel puller

[Guest]

I need to remove the steering wheel on my restoration project. I have the 1940 Champion and it has been sitting for a thousand years so I'm guessing the wheel spline is fossilized to the worm shaft.
What is the proper wheel puller and or any suggestions as to how to get it off without crucifying the steering wheel?.
I've been soaking the splines with PB Spray all day and methodically hitting the underside of the steering wheel with a plastic hammer but I'm afraid it's not accomplishing anything. Maybe I need to let it soak for a day or two?
Any suggestions?

[JimC]

I got a wheel puller at Harbor freight for 10 bucks. I tried and tried, but my wheel was pretty well stuck on. Eventually I gave up and disassembled the steering box and just removed the whole stinkin' steering column with the wheel attached.

Maybe a more expensive wheel puller would have popped it loose. Maybe not. Either way, it's now out of my way!

[Warren Webb]

The point of a steering wheel puller is to put pressure on the hub of the wheel evenly. By hitting the underside you are placing an uneven pressure & endanger damaging the steering wheel itself. Many auto parts stores such as Autozone will lend tools for free, so it fits even a caso budget. I am not sure of the 40, but with my 60's Studes I found the general steering wheel pullers slots are too far apart & I ended up having to make my own. Your 40 may or may not be the same. I also seem to remember a spray that freezes the shaft & has a lubricant in it so that the shaft then will contract & the lubricant will penetrate to loosen parts. I have not tried it myself but perhaps some others in the forum have or have other ideas.

[DEEPNHOCK]

The wheel puller you need pulls from under the wheel (there is no plate to screw to 'in' the hub).
It's hard to find the right one, so most people have to build one.

I need to remove the steering wheel on my restoration project. I have the 1940 Champion and it has been sitting for a thousand years so I'm guessing the wheel spline is fossilized to the worm shaft.
What is the proper wheel puller and or any suggestions as to how to get it off without crucifying the steering wheel?.
I've been soaking the splines with PB Spray all day and methodically hitting the underside of the steering wheel with a plastic hammer but I'm afraid it's not accomplishing anything. Maybe I need to let it soak for a day or two?
Any suggestions?

[JohnM15]

This is a puller I made from scrap. First the steering column nut is loosened three turns or so. The two 2"x2" oak boards go around just below the steering column and screws are tightened. A socket is placed between the 1"x1" steel tube and the steering center post and the two lag screws are tightened. when the lag bolts are fairly tight, rap the 1"x1" where the socket is aligned to provide the "shock" to loosen the wheel...

[Guest]

Awesome: Looks like a medieval torture bar or mule cart wagon wheel puller!! Actually, I got lucky today. The PB spray must have done it's job because the wheel finally came off with a little more hammering.
I sure appreciate the picture John. I'll have to remember to use your method next time.

[9echo]

How will this need to modified to work on my 48 Champion?
I think I will be pulling the steering wheel to replace the horn wire. The car is the Regal with the horn ring. As I understand it the center of the horn ring must be removed to get to the screws to pull the horn ring. With the gear shift on the column there must be some changes.
By the way the Starlight is up and running. I have the wiring to update and repair the trunk lid hing yet, then it will be road ready. The interior is still in place but badly water stained. I will attack that after I road test it.
I hope to take the car on the 2011 Route 66 Association of Illinois Motor Tour the second weekend of June.
Thanks, 73, Jim

[jclary]

How will this need to modified to work on my 48 Champion?
I think I will be pulling the steering wheel to replace the horn wire. The car is the Regal with the horn ring. As I understand it the center of the horn ring must be removed to get to the screws to pull the horn ring. With the gear shift on the column there must be some changes.
By the way the Starlight is up and running. I have the wiring to update and repair the trunk lid hing yet, then it will be road ready. The interior is still in place but badly water stained. I will attack that after I road test it.
I hope to take the car on the 2011 Route 66 Association of Illinois Motor Tour the second weekend of June.
Thanks, 73, Jim

I have replaced several horn wires. I don't ever recall having to pull the steering wheel just to replace a horn wire.

However, if you need to pull the wheel on one of these cars with the small diameter back...I made one that works very well. I bought a bearing separator, drilled and tapped two holes for a 5/16ths bolt. Used in conjunction with a standard wheel puller as pictured...it works very well. Just remember to back the steering wheel nut to where it is flush with the threads on the column. This will protect the threads. I also use a metal wafer to cover the nut where the lead screw on the puller contacts the end of the column.

[9echo]

John, that looks pretty good. I will have to wait and see what I find when I pull the horn ring.
Thanks, 73, Jim

[JohnM15]

Nice puller, Jclary! I don't have a bearing separator or wheel puller. But I will be purchasing a bearing separator soon to remove some bearings on the differential. I thought bearing separators normally had tapped holes for a puller?

[jclary]

Nice puller, Jclary! I don't have a bearing separator or wheel puller. But I will be purchasing a bearing separator soon to remove some bearings on the differential. I thought bearing separators normally had tapped holes for a puller?

You could be right about the holes already being in the bearing separator. I was a bit distracted when I posted last night. (Watching the nascar race) Also, it has been over a year since I had my puller tools out so I was just trying to cover the bases.

My first version of a puller for these wheels included old used disc brake pads and threaded rod. That contraption worked a couple of times, but this one is much better and has less tendency to crack the bakelite on the steering wheel.