Adding A/C to 1950 Champion w/ 6cylinder

[52-fan]

I think this a/c set-up is in a 50 Champion.

[mbstude]

I think this a/c set-up is in a 50 Champion.

Yes it is. Most all of that bracketry work was done by Jeff Woodcock; he's a Forum member and runs his own machine shop.

[deco_droid]

Actually, the '55 had A/C as an option,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8998[/ATTACH]

And it was retroactively available for '53-'54, which were all 6 volts systems.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]8999[/ATTACH]

However, as stated, only for the V-8 engines. I'm guessing the factory felt the 6 simply didn't have the extra power to run the system.

John

wow -- what is up with the tubes in the rear window? is the a/c unit located in the trunk or what? i recall seeing an old 50s car with tubes like that, years ago, but i didn't realize it was an a/c unit...

[BobGlasscock]

yes, and yes.

[cbonner757]

Does the Vintage Air system need 12V negative ground? I'm almost ready to re-wire the 51 Champion, and am looking at the best setup (and keeping in mind I might want to add AC).
Anyone using one of the 3-post batteries, and how would that figure into the electrical layout necessary to add the AC? Tap 12V off two posts then invert to negative ground, leaving the
rest of the car positive ground (starting and lights 12V, the remainder of the car 6V)?

[avantilover]

Wouldn't it get confusing with 3 different voltage systems in the car? Good luck with it.

[Johnnywiffer]

Here is a pic of one side of mine. Remember, my LC is a '54 with 12v system, so the trunk-mounted AC came from a '56.



You can see the air inlets so it is a recirculating system. And it's pretty noisy for those in the rear seats with a blower motor on each side. Yes, 2 motors. And because the unit is so heavy, the rear springs require "helpers" unless you want the rear U-joint to rat-tat-tat on the body with passengers in the rear. All in all, not as modern is you might like.

John

[cbonner757]

Still looking at design options on the electrical, John. If I go to modern heat/AC, that eliminates two 6V blower motors that I'd have to step voltage down for. The car either never had the anti-creep or someone removed it long ago, so that would only leave the radio to consider for a 12V conversion, since lights and starting would be on 12V. Still need to do some more digging regarding what is involved with the lighting if changed to 12V negative ground.

Regards,
Clarence

[52-fan]

As long as bulbs are 12 volt, I don't think the change in polarity will matter. Of more concern is switching the fuel guage or installing a Runtz voltage drop.

[cbonner757]

Thanks, 52 fan. Yep, I haven't studied the 12 volt conversion guide recently, so I need to refresh on that, including the fuel sending unit. Still some thinking and studying to do before moving forward.

Best regards,
Clarence

[deco_droid]

Looking at this again for next year possibly. Did any of you guys get the a/c worked out on your flatheads? Ideally I'd like to keep the system 6v and just add an efficient compressor that doesn't drag the engine on my 50 down too much.

[studebakerkid]

That cooler set up looks like the easy way to go.

[Doug M]

There was a 51 champion in Pensacola Fla for sale about 5 years ago on ebay I think it went to somewhere in the north east

[cbonner757]

Deco, I'd not been on the forum for ages. No, I've not gotten that far yet, to get to the AC. Finally got all mechanicals
(less automatic choke) working smooth, and ready to send her out for paint and body/interior restoration. I plan on
a partial 12V conversion using a Runtz resistor to keep the stock gages, so I'd be using the 12V AC system when I get that far along with the project.

[JoeHall]

With the anemic little six, I'm guessing you'd have to set the idle to about 3000 RPM in order to keep the engine from dying when the compressor kicks on