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  • Oil pan gasket

    Thought I would eliminate the last oil leak in the '60 Lark convertible coming from rear of engine. Likely culprit was the oil pan gasket. After reading tech advice and shop manual I blocked up vehicle removed starter and oil level tube. Began looking at bell crank assembly, seems very difficult to remove. Removing exhaust appears to be necessary. Not sure how to get at all the pan bolts. Seems like its a job done more easily with engine out. Can it be done without removing bell crank? At the moment, I'm tempted to leave it alone and live with a leak. Any advice?
    sigpicJohn Esmonde
    Holland Landing, Ontario
    Canada
    \'62 Hawk
    \'60 Lark Regal Convertible
    \'30 Chev Coach

  • #2
    Lark V-8 Oil Pan removal

    Yes you need to remove the exhaust head pipes from the Manifold (if you have single exhaust, may be a good time to switch to DUALS!) and drop the center Steering pivot, then you can swing the tie rods out of the way and bailing wire them to the frame. This is not as hard as it may seem.
    Just be sure you remove the Zerk fitting in the Steering Center support FIRST, then remove the Clamp to Bellcrank on top, then the four bolts & nuts that secure it, and that part is done.

    I always hate messing with rusty old exhaust pipes, but maybe your's are not the worst, just have 3 New Flange Gaskets, thick type for a '61 Ford Falcon 170 6 Cyl. or the Stude. Vendor Flange kit, because you will also need 4 Brass NF 3/8" Nuts and hopefully NOT the 2 long & 2 short 3/8" Manifold STUDS also in the Kit.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner

    Comment


    • #3
      A tap and die set is real handy to have around when dealing with manifolds. I like to run a die up on the exposed stud threads before even trying to take the brass nuts off.

      nate
      --
      55 Commander Starlight
      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

      Comment


      • #4
        What I did on my 63 Lark when the rear u shaped end cork gasket was leaking was to take off the starter and the flat bell housing plate for access. I then cleaned the surface of the cork end seal with brake clean and applied (black) silicone sealer to it with a tool like a flat screw driver or spatula. No more leaks. Sure saved me from pulling the pan off. Might try that first because the end cork gasket is usually the culprit!
        Last edited by 41 Frank; 02-26-2011, 07:26 AM.
        Frank van Doorn
        Omaha, Ne.
        1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
        1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
        1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

        Comment


        • #5
          If using RTV for"external sealing" don't use white tub sealer like I did. It worked fine for a long, long, time, but was a highly visible reminder to me and brought instant attention to the "shameful" thing I'd done, even reflecting badly on my parents.. The Blue and Red RTVs HIGH VISIBILITY make it obvious if they are not used sparingly. Often when looking at a used car or bike a "just rebuilt/replaced something or other" is proudly played as a positive selling point. If there is Red or blue ooze along a bolted joint I cant help but consider the repair and even the entire vehicle as questionable, and not just because there is likely an evil twin rubber snake on the inside, waiting to break free and create mayhem.

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          • #6
            Thanks StudeRich, I'll revisit the bell crank removal after your note 'cause it sure seemed tough to get at to me. Thanks for the exhaust advice. I have to do it anyway because I discovered one of the exhaust manifolds had a crack.Thanks also Nate. I'll try the 'die' trick. I hadn't thought of an external solution Frank, but I'll certainly look at it. Need to look for that bell housing plate and be careful with silicone application as Dan suggested.
            sigpicJohn Esmonde
            Holland Landing, Ontario
            Canada
            \'62 Hawk
            \'60 Lark Regal Convertible
            \'30 Chev Coach

            Comment


            • #7
              I used the same method that 41Frank did but on the front under the crank pulley. It works!
              1957 Studebaker Champion 2 door. Staten Island, New York.

              "Education is not the learning of facts, but the training of the mind to think." -Albert Einstein

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              • #8
                I forgot to say I also did the front gasket that way and it also stopped any leaching out of oil through and around the cork just like yours. It is also a good idea to check the distributor gasket as any leak there will run down the bellhousing and mimic a leaking pan gasket.
                Originally posted by FlatheadGeo View Post
                I used the same method that 41Frank did but on the front under the crank pulley. It works!
                Frank van Doorn
                Omaha, Ne.
                1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks guys! I found what must be the inspection plate on the bell housing and am encouraged. Going to try the fixes suggested.
                  sigpicJohn Esmonde
                  Holland Landing, Ontario
                  Canada
                  \'62 Hawk
                  \'60 Lark Regal Convertible
                  \'30 Chev Coach

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Little milder in Ontario today. Fired up garage furnace and got at cleaning the rear of the oil pan and removed the bell housing inspection plate. It seems to me that the bearing cap seal is not leaking so it must be the cork piece at the top. Got things cleaned fairly well, will do it again and then try applying sealant to the exterior of the cork gasket. Hope it works. Ordered new exhaust manifold and gaskets from SI this morning . In all a good Studebaker day following help and advice from the forum. Thanks.
                    sigpicJohn Esmonde
                    Holland Landing, Ontario
                    Canada
                    \'62 Hawk
                    \'60 Lark Regal Convertible
                    \'30 Chev Coach

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      John- I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my '51 Champion. You will need a "pickle fork" to get the tie rods off of the bell crank. I got one at Harbor Freight cheap. But the best advice I was given by someone in the group (sorry, don't remember who) was when your ready to reinstall the pan, Have 6 threaded studs screwed into the corners and center of the block where the oil pan bolts go. this aligns the pan and keeps you from contacting the gasket dressing while your putting the pan where it belongs.

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                      • #12
                        Try any of the "Ultra" sealers from permatex. They seem to hold up well. I have been putting a coat of the ultra gray sealer on the two end corks when I put an engine together. So far so good.
                        Jamie McLeod
                        Hope Mills, NC

                        1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
                        1958 Commander "Christine"
                        1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
                        1955 Commander Sedan
                        1964 Champ
                        1960 Lark

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Tie Rod End Removal

                          Originally posted by JohnMSeymour View Post
                          John- I just replaced the oil pan gasket on my '51 Champion. You will need a "pickle fork" to get the tie rods off of the bell crank. I got one at Harbor Freight cheap.
                          It could have been me that recommended the All-Thread or Studs to locate the Pan Gasket, as I did that recently, but it does not matter, several people have done that.

                          But here is another tip: the Pickle Fork is not needed if you know this trick.

                          Back-up one side of the Reach Arm or Bellcrank that the tie rod end goes through, keeping pressure on it with a heavy Hammer, then bash it 180 degrees away, on the opposite side with another Med. to heavy Hammer with the Cotter Pin and Nut removed, it will fall off!
                          StudeRich
                          Second Generation Stude Driver,
                          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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