Help Please! New Pinion Seal looks different than oem and don't know what to reuse. 52 Land Cruser

[rjdavis21]

I have checked other post and im not clear on how to install new pinion seal.
the old seal was fat and had a flat paper gasket between it and the slinger I think its called.
and then had a felt ring behind the yoke cover. Please see pics and tell me how to reassemble
What to use and what not to reuse.
Thanks

[Tahiti Coral]

That should not be a problem. The seal for my Dana 27 looked the same as your new one, too. Replacement parts do not always look the same as OEM. As long as the diameter is the same and it the seal rides near the same point on the shaft then you are good to go.

If I remember correctly, that large, thin round gasket is no longer needed.

[rjdavis21]

felt piece in yoak flange

do I take out the felt ring thats in the yoke out or leave it in. the new seal has also a rubber outer that looks like it would ride inside that flange where the felt ring is I will try to send better pics

[Chucks Stude]

I just changed mine. The new one was bought at NAPA, and I put the whole thing in, no problem. It dried the rear end right up.

[rjdavis21]

more pics

more pics what do I throw away

[DEEPNHOCK]

It 'looks' like the newer seal has a molded block that would replace the felt.
The slinger on the inside is to keep the sealing lip from being inundated all the time, and it should be reused.
One thing to look close at (and be careful for)..
Look at the 'garter spring' on the outside of the sealing lip.
If it is 'contained' ..Moulded bumps keeping the spring in place....great.
But most likely it is just the spring tension that holds it in the groove.
If so, then be real careful installing the seal and don't whack it putting it in.
That could dislodge the garter spring and cause it to get ground up in the bearing(s).
I like to put a little grease around the garter spring to keep it seated in the seal lip groove.
There are special pinion seal installation tools made to seat the seal squarely in the diff housing while reaching over the protruding pinion shaft.
I have a couple of homemade tools that do just as well.
Made mine from some PVC pipe cut off square and an end cap glued on the other side.
Makes tapping the seal on with a rubber mallet a whole lot easier.

Oh, and another 'universal' seal installation trick.
Try to fine the 'sweet spot' on the seal housing when putting it in.
Since the seal 'hole' and the seal 'case' aren't perfect circles, the seal case invariable wobbles a bit when you go to put it in.
Try rotating, or 'clocking' the seal a few 'minutes', and actually try to wobble it by had.
Clock it a few more 'minutes' and wobble it again.
After a few 'clockings' you will find a spot where there are three or more contact points between the seal case and the seal bore...and it won't wobble.
That's the 'sweet spot' and when you do use your hammer and tool to install the seal, it will start into the bore 'square' and install easier.
This works on just about every seal and seal application out there...
A good one to remember.
HTIH
Jeff
(from my old Chicago Rawhide days)

more pics what do I throw away

[rjdavis21]

All Done Thank You

I install new seal without paper gasket or felt ring and used thin wall exhaust pipe with nice flat cut.
put tube grease around garter spring to secure from moving.tapped in really nice
a thin layer of rtv on seal service and behing flat washer and torqued 150ft
thanks again ALL DONE