Distributor Cap wire order 6 cylinder Champ

[55s]

My son learned how not to change a distributor today.

All the wires came off.

I know the rotor turns counterclockwise, and the firing order is 153624, but where is the location of number one spark plug wire on the cap? Timing mark cant be seen.

There is a little detent in the cap bottom that engages in the distributor base. So, with that little detent down, we have the number 2 spark plug wire inserted into the distributor cap just to the left of the detent. Is that correct?

[StudeRich]

It is largely just a matter of which way the vacuum advance needs to point to make the hard line and generator fit the engine. Both the Studebaker Shop Manual and the Motors Repair Manual show the V-8 arrangement but not the Six, it must be pretty much a one way fits all situation, since it will run fine in any position as long as it can be timed correctly. Usually #1 starts at one side or the other of the Cap Clip.

[PlainBrownR2]

Never fear I have a tuning chart here(Always a good buy at a swap meet, I used one on the '55 quite a bit) !!

For my 289, the tuning chart is for the 1964 Studebakers, so the chart may vary. If the vacuum advance module is pointed toward the passenger firewall, the #1 spark plug is going to be just behind(towards the firewall) the front hold down clip on the distributor. The #2 spark plug wire is going to be behind the #1 spark plug wire, or two behind the front hold down clip.

My bad!
Never fear the six cylinder tuning chart is here. I have one for the 170 OHV six.
If the hold down clips are perpendicular to the block, the #1 spark plug is facing the front of the engine bay, and is the middle one between the spark plug terminals next to the front and rear hold down clips. #2 is going to be just behind the rear hold down clip by the block.

[55s]

I am still confused.

Would it be possible to send me a quick picture?

Right now, the top distributor clip is at 11:00 o'clock, and the bottom distributor clip is at 7:00 o'clock. (Distributor not turned, timing was not changed)

There are three distributor terminals on either side of the clips. I believe what you are saying is that the number 1 is the middle on the left front at at about 8 o'clock, and 4 is above and 5 is below. Is this correct?

Thank you for your help.

[Dwain G.]

Posted on Bob Johnstone's pages...............

http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/Ignition/FO.jpg

[PlainBrownR2]

There are three distributor terminals on either side of the clips. I believe what you are saying is that the number 1 is the middle on the left front at at about 8 o'clock, and 4 is above and 5 is below. Is this correct?

Yep, that's it. I'd also agree using Bob Johnstone's picture. That will provide a better description than I can in this instance .

[55s]

Put the wires on the right way. Nothing.

Checked gas. OK.

Checked spark. Now none. Was working before. Now no spark at points, which are opening and closing properly.

What is the best order to approach no spark? Tests for condenser and coil?

[Skybolt]

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2448880290087432881ChjdVM?vhost=rides

Photo of Champ distributor in original location for this car, 59 Lark. Number one lead, as you might be able to see in other photos, is as stated before in the Bob Johnstone diagram, is roughly the 9 o'clock position.

[nvonada]

What do you mean by no spark at points? Do you mean the high voltage coil wire? Turn the ignition on with the points CLOSED (cap can be off). You should have voltage at the coil but less than full battery voltage. If not then the low voltage side of the system is at fault. If that is OK disconnect the center wire (high voltage) from the distributor and check for spark. That validates the coil and points. Finally check for spark on a plug lead to validate the cap and rotor.

Nathan

[55s]

Finally - some warm weather. Thank you for the advice and suggestions.

Suddenly no spark. Replaced resistor to coil wire - got spark.

Went to start - Backfire. Firing order must still be incorrect!

Cleaned up the timing pointer, painted white. Cleaned up the timing mark. Painted it white. Lined them up, took off valve cover, valve was open! I was off by 180 degrees! I did not remove the distributor. Instead, I put the number 1 wire in the corresponding distributor hole in the middle of the right side (towards the rear), and put the rest of the wires in order, and she started right up! # 1 son is very happy, since I had given up when it got to cold.

Copied to new post: Went for a run, now the shift linkage is too sloppy under the hood. Difficult to shift.

Questions:

How big a job is it to change the shift linkage? (hours?)
Is the linkage the same for the cars? (I have a parts car)
What parts do I typically need?
It appears to be temporarily fixed by a lot of grease - OK?

I do have the shop manual - just looking for a little practical experience before I start.

Thank you.