wont start

I just bought a 48 studebaker it has a 6 cyl flat head i drove it home about 30 miles and it ran great I changed spark plugs and points and condensor set points at .020 now.....it wont start what happend?? any help i can get i appreciate i am first timer here.
thanks, Bob

[JDP]

You screwed up something, check the point wiring to make sure it's not shorting out to the distributor. Also check the firing order if you pulled the plugs wires, could be a defective new condenser or point set.

64 Commander-64 Daytona
64 GT R2 clone-63 GT R2
63 Avanti R1
63 Daytona convert-63
63 Lark 2 door
62 Lark 2 door
60 Lark HT-60Hawk
59 3E truck
52 & 53 Starliner
51 Commander

[John Kirchhoff]

Drag a piece of business card or the like between the closed points to remove any oil or dirt. Just a tiny speck of oil on the feeler guage is enough to prevent them from making a good connection.

[rockne10]

Welcome, Bob. As JDP indicates, probably a simple oversight. Retrace your wires and connections. Most of us have only screwed up a few thousand times so you've got some catching up to do.

Have you procured the shop manual? Not essential for a tune-up but will be your second favorite companion as time goes on.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

[boduke]

I replaced the plug wires one at a time and put them back like they were but i will double check this can you tell me the correct fireing order and is the number one piston at the front of the engine (radiator side?) I know i should alreddy know this but as i say i just bought it and really dont know any thing about a studebaker yet except that it is a cool lookin car (48 champion)
I really appreciate the quick responses i have had this is really a helpful site

[rockne10]

This is a very helpful and very active Forum, which is only a small portion of a very helpful website, maintained by the Studebaker Drivers Club. Click on the "home" page above for more than you can imagine, and then imagine that only 12% of the members of the Studebaker Drivers Club ever access much of anything on this site.

TURNING WHEELS, the monthly magazine of the SDC will provide access to the rest of the 26,000 members and the hundreds of vendors and technical assistants hoping to help you make the best of your new Studebaker.

The most we could hope for would to be there with you but, we're just getting started.

Six cylinder flat head could be Champion or Commander. Tell us more. Pictures would be nice.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

[sbca96]

I had a condensor ground out on me a while back, it was a 63 Avanti
but the concept is the same. I was told to turn the key on, and use
a plastic knife to open and close the points (perferably do this with
the points closed) you should get a spark, if you dont get a spark,
something has grounded. The symptom that I had was quit while running
and would only spark through the coil wire when the key was turned to
the off position (after cranking).

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[boduke]

quote:Originally posted by John Kirchhoff

Drag a piece of business card or the like between the closed points to remove any oil or dirt. Just a tiny speck of oil on the feeler guage is enough to prevent them from making a good connection.

ok i will check this out could you tell me what the correct fireing order is on a 48 champion 6 cyl. and also which is the number one piston and the rotation on the distributor is number one at the top or the bottom of distibutor Bob

[rockne10]

Front cylinder is #1. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. If timing mark on vibration damper is lined up, rotor should point to #1. Rotation is counter-clockwise.

[GTtim]

Won't the timing marks line up twice? One when #1 is TDC and then again when #1 is at the top of the exhaust stroke?

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[boduke]

quote:Originally posted by rockne10

Front cylinder is #1. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. If timing mark on vibration damper is lined up, rotor should point to #1. Rotation is counter-clockwise.

well I am still having no luck i tried every thing suggested here every thing seems to be fireing could the coil still be fireing but be to weak?? could a valve be stuck?? HELP should have left the dang thing alone lol....

[boduke]

quote:Originally posted by boduke

quote:Originally posted by rockne10

Front cylinder is #1. Firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4. If timing mark on vibration damper is lined up, rotor should point to #1. Rotation is counter-clockwise.

well I am still having no luck i tried every thing suggested here every thing seems to be fireing could the coil still be fireing but be to weak?? could a valve be stuck?? HELP should have left the dang thing alone lol....

how is the distributor numbered is number one at the top or the bottom of the distributor ??????

[Guest]

go to alomost any chain parts store (Autozone, O riely's. Advanced Auto)
and purchase a spark test they are about 7 bucks and have an end your plug wire will fit on and an end to run to ground. it has a scale on it and you can adjust it out to find out how good of spark you have. I just used one the other day on a customers contential flat head if i hadnt i problably wouldnt had found his coil was weak. according to the scall on the spark tester it was only puting out around 10,000 volts and the unit just would run even though it appeared the plugs were getting good fire. i put on a new coil it was putting out 35,000 volts the unit fired right up. I am not saying your coils is bad. many things will affect how good you spark is. i would start off by backing my points down to around .014-.012 this is tight but generally will idle well and give the coil plenty time to charge. Did you change out the condesor? if you did try the old one if you didnt try the new one. also there is an insultator where you negitive wire come into the distributor i have seen these get cracks from over torque and ground out to keep a unit from running. then double check your point and condesor wires if they are touching anything they shouldnt it wont fire. you can even put the spark test on you coil wire leave you cap and rotor off. and use your fingers to break open points and check spark. If you have a multi meter or a test light. check your power on the positive side of your coil. you should see battery voltage or a good light if using a test light. then check the negitive side to ground with the points closed you should show no voltage but when you break them open you should get battery voltage. also make sure your batery is good if you are having a voltage drop it might turn over fast enough you think it should start,b ut might not be suppling the coil with good juice. My guess is though that the point gap is incorrect or the points or wires are grounded it is easy to do and it wont run like that. keep us informed on the status and one of us will point you in the right direction


Erin Hays
1961 Hawk
1962 Lark
1963 Wagonaire

[Guest]

also make sure you are at the very top of a breaker lobe when you set you points. also double check you points na dmake sure they are identical. i have got a few set that are close but the foot is short and doesnt work well. As for number 1 on the distributor it could be anywhere, but only the correct spot will work. pull your engnine up to top dead center bby your timing make on the harmonic balance thats either #1 or number #6 depending on which stroke the #1 cylinder is on TDC compression or TDC Exhaust. try it one way noting which way your rotor points if that dont work try the other way. i hope thats not coinfusion.


Erin Hays
1961 Hawk
1962 Lark
1963 Wagonaire

[Guest]

where you located and is anyone in the forum close to you?

Erin Hays
1961 Hawk
1962 Lark
1963 Wagonaire