Door hinge cage nuts, how are they constructed?

[Jeff T.]

Tomorrow, the weather in Nebraska is forecast in the lower 80s, I can get back to the hardtop

I want to remove the only bolt that broke when I took the right door off, the bottom most on the lower hinge. If I cannot get a good grip on the stub of the bolt from the inside of the door post to twist the remains out. How is the nut held in... a welded cage around the nut or is it a nut in some kind of spring steel that I can easily pop out and replace.

I think that it is the former but I thought I would ask...

Jeff T.

[StudeRich]

I do not have a pic of one of our's available right now, but they are welded on.

[Dean McHenry]

Hi Jeff The nut its self is square and just fits in a stamped cage spot welded into place. You might try soaking the remains of the stud with with your favourite penetrating oils (I like Kroil) or try heating it up with a hot axe before trying to remove it.. Once you spin the nut in the retainer its no fun removing the remains of the cage and spot welding a new one in place. Dont ask me how I know.... Some times they are not very accessable. Good luck, take your time and you'll have a good chance of getting it out.. DMc

[Retired]

Check the cage, are two side turned but not welded? If yes. cut the stub as close to the cage as possible. Pry one of the unwelded ends up, work the nut out. replace with new nut, bend the end back in place. If all four sides are welded, use a dremil tool with a cut off blade and cut one of the turned down ends at the weld. follow "yes" .

[Jeff T.]

Got the nut out this afternoon and the remains on the bolt came out, unfortunately I drilled a bit off center and bunged up the threads. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement tomorrow, if I cannot the original is usuable.

Jeff T.

oh, I got a chisel and bent back a flap to remove the bolt.

[Welcome]

Got the nut out this afternoon and the remains on the bolt came out, unfortunately I drilled a bit off center and bunged up the threads. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement tomorrow, if I cannot the original is usuable. Jeff T. oh, I got a chisel and bent back a flap to remove the bolt.

It may not be eazy finding a new nut of the correct thread size that will fit back inside the original cage.

If you need a couple NOS cage nuts, PM me with your mailing address and I'll drop them in the mail for you.

[jclary]

It may not be eazy finding a new nut of the correct thread size that will fit back inside the original cage.

If you need a couple NOS cage nuts, PM me with your mailing address and I'll drop them in the mail for you.

While this might seem a distant and small problem to many of us...it is a great gesture and an excellent example of why folks should join the SDC and participate in this forum!
My hat is off to you..."MR. WELCOME"

[(S)]

Hi

1930's Fords and other types of cars use the same fine thread cage nuts. Aftermarket rod shops have them, you just drill the spot welds, and weld on the new ones...... Try looking for '36 Ford fender nuts, they are the closest match if I recall correctly.

[Jeff_H]

I got some of those cage nuts from Restoration Specialties at their tent at the Iola swap meet in the 90's when I had my car apart.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com

However, I noticed they don't show them in their catalog anymore.

But,

These ones from McMaster-Carr look to be pretty much the same thing. 3/8" fine thread if I recall...

http://www.mcmaster.com

I had to cut open a flap/window in the A piller on a couple to get at the inside to fix some of these when they twisted out. Only 1 of the nuts on each hinge is accessable from the outside of the piller. The nuts are square and loose in a stamped cage that is spot welded inside the piller.

[(S)]

Jeff has a good point.

In the case of the ones in the cowl that are hard to get at. Consider this: if they are rusty enough to break, how rusty is the rest of the metal in there? Some of these cars really need a 'window' cut out of the lower cowl section so you can Por 15 that area. I have seen '53-'66 cars with a solid 9 inch pile of crud near the lower fender/cowl section and you can't see it until you cut it open, or until it rots clear through.. Once they rot here, kiss the car good bye.

[Deaf Mute]

On my '53, after I got in there, and discovered that the nut was not salvagable, I just got a hex nut of the correct thread size, welded "ears" on it thus making a square nut and bent the clips back around it... and used anti-sieze on all the nuts! I have a big stash of old square nuts... but none the correct size.

[Jeff T.]

Went to one of the bigger Ace hardware stores in town tonight. They had a couple of square nuts that were close BUT everything was SAE course not fine. Thanks for your offer Welcome, a PM is heading your way

Jeff T.

[Welcome]

Went to one of the bigger Ace hardware stores in town tonight. They had a couple of square nuts that were close BUT everything was SAE course not fine. Thanks for your offer Welcome, a PM is heading your way

Jeff T.

Confirming: Stude NOS Cagenuts were mailed from South Bend this morning.

[Jeff T.]

Welcome,

The cage nuts arrived this morning. I had a few minutes this evening to fit everything together on the doorpost so I'll finish the doorpost Sunday afternoon. Then I'll hang the door, weld on the rocker panel and adjust all the gaps before sundown, I hope

Thanks again

Jeff T.

To paraphrase my old high school principal " another SDC job well done" now to pay the good will forward.