A/C is next! Need pulleys

[wolfie]

First sorry for so many questions but I know just enough about this set-up to spend lots of unnecessary $$. I am still taking small steps towards getting the T-cab back to rights. The next step is the A/C system. My original compressor seems OK so hopefully I am staying with it. I know I am missing some pulleys but dont know what else and I am having a hard time deciphering exactly what I need from the parts manual. Should there be another pulley between the fan and the water pump (possibly part number 1552695)? Do the pulley and the spacer replace the existing spacer? The manual lists 3 spacers with the same illustration number and different part numbers, Do I need all 3 or how do I know which I do need? In the manual the idler pulley moves to adjust tension, on my truck the compressor slides to adjust tension and the idler is fixed or at least seems as though it will be. Does it use the same spacer and pulley? This was a dealer installed system but with the 4 speed the inside unit is different from others I have seen. I think with the correct pulleys I can at least get it to a point that a shop wont run away from it. Any help or ideas are GREATLY appreciated. The truck is a 64 8E-7 with 289. Thanks, Steve

[Chucks Stude]

Call Bob Helm in Royce City, Texas. He has a lot of inventory from bankrupt dealers. His phone number is 972-843-3402. A great friend of Studebakerism.

[wolfie]

What is the best time to call him? Tracy

[wolfie]

Call Bob Helm in Royce City, Texas. He has a lot of inventory from bankrupt dealers. His phone number is 972-843-3402. A great friend of Studebakerism.

Thanks, I will have Tracy call him tommorrow. I still am not sure what to ask him for though. It looks to me like with a double pulley for the water pump and an idler pulley and correct spacers I will have a drive system. I have a drive pulley on the crank already that lines up with the compressor. Does the rest of this look like a factory Stude set-up? SI lists the idler pulley called for in the parts manual but none of the spacers. They also list the stud called for though I was kinda shocked at the cost ($18.50). Certainly worth $20 to have air but is this stud really that special or can I substitute a simple bolt? Thanks, Steve

[jclary]

Steve,
I have a 60 lark with an A/C I installed many years ago. I have not run or had the car out in several years. However, I am wondering what you are thinking about an extra pulley for the water pump. If I remember correctly (and that is a big if), the double crank pulley is all you need. If it is like the way I set mine up, the belt is driven off the crank and goes directly to the A/C compressor with the idler pulley providing the tension. The water pump and alternator are driven off a separate belt.

[wolfie]

Steve,
I have a 60 lark with an A/C I installed many years ago. I have not run or had the car out in several years. However, I am wondering what you are thinking about an extra pulley for the water pump. If I remember correctly (and that is a big if), the double crank pulley is all you need. If it is like the way I set mine up, the belt is driven off the crank and goes directly to the A/C compressor with the idler pulley providing the tension. The water pump and alternator are driven off a separate belt.

I looked to see if it would work that way and I dont think it will with the current set-up. With the orientation of the existing pulleys I dont see any way to clear the water pump pulley. My truck has been converted to a GM alternator. It might be possible if there was another pulley on the generator originally by using the idler on the back of the belt. It would still be close to the water pump pulley if it would clear at all. If anyone has pics of a factory set-up that might be helpful. Steve

[53k]

I looked to see if it would work that way and I dont think it will with the current set-up. With the orientation of the existing pulleys I dont see any way to clear the water pump pulley. My truck has been converted to a GM alternator. It might be possible if there was another pulley on the generator originally by using the idler on the back of the belt. It would still be close to the water pump pulley if it would clear at all. If anyone has pics of a factory set-up that might be helpful. Steve

Here are some pics of the factory setup on my '64 Daytona Wagonaire. I took them last year when we were trying to figure out how to install the Vintage air in the '64 Daytona convertible. Hope they help.

[jclary]

Well, I just couldn't stand it. I had to amble out to the "man cave" during what we here in the south call a "frawg strangler" of a thunderstorm just to check the A/C set up on the old lark. I managed to get in and out without getting bit by a Copper head or struck by lightning. As I thought, my water pump and alternator are driven off one belt and the water pump has a single pulley. The A/C belt traverses from the double crank pulley to the A/C compressor over the water pump (without touching it) to the idler pulley back to the crank.

In my opinion, one thing for sure that Studebaker was truly "ahead of its time" was in crowding an engine bay.(Economy of space!) There are some critical clearances under these hoods and the more stuff you add...the more critical it gets.

[wolfie]

Here are some pics of the factory setup on my '64 Daytona Wagonaire. I took them last year when we were trying to figure out how to install the Vintage air in the '64 Daytona convertible. Hope they help.

Thanks Paul! That shows me exactly what I need for the water pump problem. You definately have an extra pulley at the water pump/fan. The spacers shown in the manual also show needing 6 bolts so I am going to assume they are for the crankshaft (which is already set up for the A/C). That means I only need 3 pieces, the 1552695 fan pulley, the 1552400 idler pulley and bearing and the 1552402 spacer. The rest is just bolts and washers. SI lists the idler pulley and bearing so I may be really close for this one. Still curious about the stud listed and why it would be special. It is listed with supercharger parts which could explain the costliness but is it really necessary? Thanks Again, Steve (forgive numbers, they are primarily so I dont have to hunt a pen again) Steve

[wolfie]

Well, I just couldn't stand it. I had to amble out to the "man cave" during what we here in the south call a "frawg strangler" of a thunderstorm just to check the A/C set up on the old lark. I managed to get in and out without getting bit by a Copper head or struck by lightning. As I thought, my water pump and alternator are driven off one belt and the water pump has a single pulley. The A/C belt traverses from the double crank pulley to the A/C compressor over the water pump (without touching it) to the idler pulley back to the crank.

In my opinion, one thing for sure that Studebaker was truly "ahead of its time" was in crowding an engine bay.(Economy of space!) There are some critical clearances under these hoods and the more stuff you add...the more critical it gets.

Thanks John. I truly appreciate the effort but mine is the exact same set-up as Pauls. It has to come around the water pump. I REALLY wanted it to work without it (and couldnt imagine why it would have lost 2 pulleys) but it just wont clear. Thanks again for the effort though.Steve

[Chucks Stude]

Here is the setup I put on my Hawk, just leave off the spacer and that is the set-up for your car.





No preview on this reply. I hope it is OK.

[Chucks Stude]

As far as the idler, I am using a 90's geo tracker/metro idler, it is darn near identical to the Stude one that failed on my car. I will see if I can find a pic, but it has a threaded backside, and has worked well for a couple of years.

[wolfie]

Thanks Chuck, I can get the idler pulley from several vendors (runs about $30). The one I havent found yet is the water pump pulley. Still have a couple more places to call. I also havent found the spacer yet but worst case I will make something for there. It doesnt seem like there will be an enormous amount of pressure on it so it shouldnt be hard to find something. Thanks, Steve

[Chucks Stude]

Hate to be a CASO, but you have the spacer on the back of your fan. That is what I used, and just had the nub on the end machined to fit the fan clutch. You may not have room to run the fan clutch. Don't know how much room on a T cab, maybe just give me the truck and I'll figure it out(ha, ha).

[53k]

Thanks Chuck, I can get the idler pulley from several vendors (runs about $30). The one I havent found yet is the water pump pulley. Still have a couple more places to call. I also havent found the spacer yet but worst case I will make something for there. It doesnt seem like there will be an enormous amount of pressure on it so it shouldnt be hard to find something. Thanks, Steve

The idler pulley design that Studebaker used is a total PITA. It slides in a slot on the a/c mount rather than being on a pivoting arm like the aftermarket ones. You have to be able to loosen the nut on the back of the special bolt that the pulley runs on then slide it as tight in the slot as you can then tighten the nut on the back again- takes more hands than I have. If you can find one of those turnbuckle belt tighteners it might be easier. The Avanti uses the same slotted bracket, but it's even more impossible to get to. I can't even see it from above and I'm not sure if I can reach it from under the car.