Door locks

[stude62]

The door lock drivers side front on the Lark gave out this morning. It has always been "temperamental" when you insert the key, the cylinder usually wouldn't turn left or right. I figured out that if you depressed the thumb button just a fraction, the key would turn and it would work.

When I picked it up at the mechanic the other day, the lock acted up and I did the trick with the thumb latch and went to turn the key. Well the key turned and never grabbed anything. So I turned it the other way and it did "catch" and it unlocked the door.

This morning, the same thing happened, except it won't catch at all.

This door also has a problem latching securely.

SO, it looks like I am going to have to pull the interior panel. The question is, do you think that the cylinder can be salvaged, or is it - as my Grandmother would say - Outz Kepushed?

[nvonada]

I would think that if jiggling the lock button allows the key to turn then the problem is not in the lock cylinder but something binding in the latch mechanism or linkage. I would pop the door panel and take a look. It is easy to get off, just go slow and don't scratch/tear anything. Odds are a good cleaning and lubrication will make everything OK again.

Nathan

[stude62]

Nathan, how does one pop a door panel?

[StudeRich]

There is a bit more to it than Popping it off of course. First you need a door handle remover tool available at any Parts Store.

Remove the door and window handles, escutcheons, spacers, handle "C" clips with the tool.

Next use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the Arm Rest, there are Phillips head screws holding the bottom of the panel, remove those.

Remove the Door Lock Knob by unscrewing it.

Then take your door handle Tool or a straight screwdriver and go around each depression you see UNDER the panel along the edges and pry out to "Pop" the spring clips loose from the door, after one or two are released, you will be able to see where they are, you must get right NEXT TO the "spike" of the clip or you will tear the Panel.

Then with the Vent Window OPEN, on '63-'66's you LIFT the panel UP a bit to release the top cat whisker edge from the door and roll-up window glass and lift the Panel off.

[Mike Sal]

Lift the door panel, starting at the back (the end with the lock button) will help get it unhooked from the glass opening area.

Once the door panel is off, peel the dark colored paper off of the opening so you can reach in with your arm to unclip the lock. It's a tight squeeze to get your arm up in there where the clip is. The clip is installed from the top (you can't see it), so feel around & get familiar with the lock & clip, then take a pair of pliers (or bent nose needle nose pliers) & grab the lip of the clip & work it back & forth in an upward direction until it's disengaged from the lock cylinder. the cylinder will then pull straight out of the door.

One addtional thing....take some duct tape & line the edge of the door opening to prevent cuts while your fishing around for the clip.
Mike Sal

[rockne10]

I would think that if jiggling the lock button allows the key to turn then the problem is not in the lock cylinder
Nathan

Agree! The cylinder is the issue only if it will not turn.

[Mike Sal]

I disected a pitted spare lock cylinder this morning to find out where the "secret" retention clip is located. I used a roto sip & thin cut off wheel to split the housing.

You'll notice 3 locator tabs just under the head of the housing, which keeps it from rotating in the door (the door has 3 matching notches). We are interested in the tab which is located at the "6 o'clock" position (as installed in the door). To remove the guts, measure .656 inches (21/32, or 16.6mm) back from the bottom of the head in line with the 6 o'clock tab. Centerpunch this spot & carefully drill a small hole (I used a .140 drill) thru the wall of the housing. Take it easy, as the wall is only .052 thick (less than 1/16", or 1.3mm). After your done with the drill, use a small punch (almost anything small enough to fit thru the hole will due) to push down the retaining clip. You can then remove the cylinder. It will help to have the housing in a vise so that you can slide the guts out without disturbing the position of the cylinder. As you remove it, you'll notice all the tumbler tabs looking up at you. It helps to have a key inserted into the cylinder (even if it doesn't fit the lock) to keep the tumblers from falling out if you accidently turn the cylinder upside down.

I noticed that both of the door locks I took apart this morning were very dry & had a small amount of oxidation in them, making them more difficult to turn. i re-arranged the tumblers to fit a key I had & then lubed the cylinder up with with a mixture of lithium grease & graphite. I used a tiny screw driver to help depress the retaining clip as i re-installed the cylinder into the housing. I did clean up the drilled hole prior to re-assembly to get rid of the burr from the drill. The lock works really well now. Unfortunately, the housing is pitted & not too good to use on a car I'm going to be painting soon.

Does anyone have a pair of door locks with decent housings for sale (they don't need keys)? I looked at the SI site about the door lock sets & it appears you get two locks that don't necessarily match (meaning you need 3 keys....one ignition & one for each door)....I've not called them yet to confirm or deny this notion, but If I can find 2 locks which unpitted housings, I can re-key them to match my nos ignition key without the $135 SI expense (see, I do have some CASO in me....)
Mike Sal