Binding hardtop window regulator

[Jeff T.]

Where do I start... well, do hardtop front windows retract fully into the doors, What would cause the the gears in the regulator to jump and unmesh, making a thunking noise. What is a good lube for all the joints on the regulator.

Any advice on fixing my window regulators will be helpful

Thanks in advance

Jeff T.

[N8N]

worn out regulators

What year hardtop? if it's a '62 they are highly NLA, but if you can find some good used Hawk regulators, you can mix 'n' match parts with a little judicious welding.

nate

[warrlaw1]

Bob Petersen provided good used ones for my 55K. Might be easier than trying to repair. Good luck!

[JDP]

worn out regulators

What year hardtop? if it's a '62 they are highly NLA, but if you can find some good used Hawk regulators, you can mix 'n' match parts with a little judicious welding.

nate

Stripped gear, but as has been posted, you can use your arms on many other gear sets and make a good regulator.

[Jeff T.]

My hardtop is a 62, I have a number of old regulators off of Larks that I have scrapped over the years. Since I have the door off the car, I can easily pull the guts out and see what I can do with what I have then get on the phone if I need to scrounge parts

Jeff T.

[Relark]

Where do I start... well, do hardtop front windows retract fully into the doors, What would cause the the gears in the regulator to jump and unmesh, making a thunking noise. What is a good lube for all the joints on the regulator.

Any advice on fixing my window regulators will be helpful

Thanks in advance

Jeff T.

Good luck on the reg. problem. My '59 Lark hardtop driver's door window won't go all the way down, stays up about 2", looks like h*ll. Tried another from the same year/model, wouldn't move at all! Checked the shop manual, nothing about the problem. Operating it on the bench, it travels from stop to stop OK. I've posted this problem before, must not be a common problem. Spent many hours trying to fix this. I'm at my wit's end on this one, left the window out for the summer!. OK, if it doesn't rain...

Art Rigsby

[Chipmaker]

FWIW The reg. has a spring break in it that has grease that dries out and makes it feel like a stripped gear.
These can be taken apart,the old grease cleaned out new put in.Its in that drum like thing that the handle shaft goes through.
Drill out the rivets,be sure to watch how it comes apart,the spring end has to go back in as it was.Clean brake drum and spring re grease with wheelbearing grease and reassemble.Use pop rivets(may have to drill and use next size rivets as some used a oddball size stock)May have to relocate 1 or 2 of the rivets so you can get to the back side.Put the rivets in from the handle side,after it is poped take a small wire or nail and punch out the remaines of the center part of the rivet.Put a flat punch or small bolt upright into a vice,hold reg.with the large end of the rivet on the end of that punch then take anouther flat punch and flaten the back side of said rivet so the driven gear will pass(yes you need three hands to do this)

[Chipmaker]

WARNING If you do the above,be sure and remove the counter balance spring first!It can hurt you if under tension when the gears are disingaged.

[Relark]

Tip: This may be obvious, I took a piece of scrap aluminum strap, 1" x 8" long, drilled a hole in each end, compressed the two arms that connect to the window frame and slid it over the studs. Install the reg in the door. Crank the window lift handle until the tension is removed and slip off the strap.
Great idea how to lube the spring break, Chipmaker! Gonna wait a little while before I try to get the reg back in the door. Still has me stumped.......

Art Rigsby

[studegary]

If it is the sector that is worn, I have had success in building the teeth up with braze and then grinding the teeth to the proper shape. This fix has held up for years in driver cars.

[Jeff T.]

I'll need to see what I have to work with after I get the regulator out of the door.

In the course of repairing the hardtop, I discovered how my repair to the lower front corner held up yesterday. To repair my repair I had to cut a 6x8 chunk out of the lower corner and use parts of a door that I am using for donor bits. At least it will be welded and solid this time around.

If all else fails, I may get an electric window kit and declare victory, provided I can wire it up right.

Jeff T.

[41 Frank]

Alternatively you could drive to Omaha, pick up your chrome valve cover from me and at the same time rummage through our two boxes of window regulators and see if there is anything you can use Jeff after you remove your regulator to compare.

I'll need to see what I have to work with after I get the regulator out of the door.

In the course of repairing the hardtop, I discovered how my repair to the lower front corner held up yesterday. To repair my repair I had to cut a 6x8 chunk out of the lower corner and use parts of a door that I am using for donor bits. At least it will be welded and solid this time around.

If all else fails, I may get an electric window kit and declare victory, provided I can wire it up right.

Jeff T.

[studegary]

[QUOTE=Jeff T.;466228
If all else fails, I may get an electric window kit and declare victory, provided I can wire it up right.

Jeff T.[/QUOTE]

Most electric window kits use all or some of the existing regulator, so this plan may not solve your problem. Let us know what you find when you get into it.

[sweetolbob]

Jeff

Just a thought. The add on type electric window kits that drive the original door handle work fine but (as you mentioned) need a good mechanism to work. Other types that replace the mechanism are almost impossible to fit as the doors are not deep enough to let the windows roll down fully. Guess how I know.

I can't help with the 62 exactly but I have several from the earlier K series that I'd be glad to contribute for postage if you could use one. If interested, I can send a picture of the two types I have.

Bob