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misfire that won't quit

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  • misfire that won't quit

    I think I'll rename the truck Miss Fire. Because that's all she'll do.

    '63 Champ OHV6 .The truck was running fine 3 weeks ago, with the excpetion of 'normal' Carter RBS problems, like worn throttle shafts, and leaning out badly over 3200 RPM. I had bought an AS 3370S from a '62 Lark that supposedly ran well when it was parted out. I bought a kit from Sudebaker International, and installed it. I did NOTHING else to the truck. The truck ran so poorly, I did not even try to drive it. Anything over 1/4 throttle, and it popped, backfired, stuttered, and just generally ran like cr@p, but it idled very nicely. After tiring of fooling with it and needing to drive it so I can do some badly needed work on my DD, I put the RBS back on.

    Guess what, it runs EXACTLY the same as it did with the AS! It is simply not driveable as badly as it backfires. The first step was to check for any vacuum leaks. The intake gasket is not old, and the nuts are snugged down. Carb base gaskets are in place, no leaks visable. Used carb cleaner to try and look for leaks, found none. Stethescope, nothing. The fuel bowl in the pump is full and clear, and although I did not measure it, the fuel bowl in the AS was full enough I expect I've got decent volume. I did make a run to Lowes, and it was awful, anytime I opened the throttle enough to drop the vacuum, it missed and backfired continuously unit I let up on the throttle enough to increase vacuum, where it would smooth right out. Going slightly downhill so I didn't need much throttle, it would wind up to about 3500 without a problem...untill I'd try and open it up some more.

    Even though it has a distibutor that was rebuild by Bill Cathcart 5,000 miles ago, with a Pertronics ignition, new wires, cap, rotor, plugs etc., this is where I looked next. The spark plugs all look great, nice and tan with no fouling or deposits, and gaps are fine. The wires are clean too. I pulled the districbutor cap, and checked it carrefully, and found no problems. I checked the spartk, it's a nice hot blue spark at 3/8". The dwell meter stays steady, even when backfiring, so I think this indicates the rebuild is OK. Timing is also on the mark, and advances as it should. I checked all primary wires for problems too, nothing. I rerouted the plug wires to see if there was some inductive misfiring, nothing. I even checked the firing order, though how it would change is beyond me, it been in a locked garage since I started. I feel really safe in saying the ignition system is not the culprit here.

    I am stumped. I did nothing but change one carb for another, had problems, went back to the first carb, and still have the same problems. I really need some help, because I need to drive it while my DD is being repaired.

    Thanks
    Ron
    Last edited by Ron Dame; 06-21-2010, 10:32 AM.
    Ron Dame
    '63 Champ

  • #2
    Ohv 6

    OHV 6 is notorious for cracks between valve seats. There is a test that can be done to check combustion gases in cooling system. The tester is attached to radiator fill spout. Sorry for having forgotten the correct terminology, it been a bunch a years sine I've had an ohv six. When I did I went throuh 3 or 4 heads to find one that was suited to weld between seats. Once worked on a 62 T-Cab with 9k original miles on it and it developed the same problem.
    Hopes this helps,
    Kim

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    • #3
      I am not familiar with the Pertronics stuff, but I have had distributor caps to look great while the unseen hair-line cracks carbon tracked between terminals. Take a few minutes and try a new cap. Good luck with it.
      John Clary
      Greer, SC

      SDC member since 1975

      Comment


      • #4
        I've got a decent one from the old dizzy, I'll try. It sure seems odd that the only thing I changed was the carb, and just by coincidence, the ignition system goes wonky. Time to dig in the boxes of parts!
        Ron Dame
        '63 Champ

        Comment


        • #5
          I had a misfire problem on my girlfriend's 63 Lark 259. Fortunately I have a scope which made it easy to find the bad distributor cap. There was in internal arc between two contacts in the cap causing the misfire. There were no visual signs of arcing, without the scope I would have had a much harder time finding the problem. Once in a great while, a Pertronix unit can cause the same problem. I would recommend running a compression check and hooking a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold to be sure that there isn't a low vacuum or other problem causing the miss. Even a weak or broken valve spring can cause the engine to misfire. Bud

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          • #6
            Hi,

            It looks like a lack of gasoline pressure. It happend to me by the fault of a clogged gas filter. In that case, the idling is perfect but you can't accelerate. You should check the pressure coming from the fuel pump or feed the carb by gravity. You can also try to run with a little choke on. If that is better, the problem is the pressure and/or the main jet is clogged.

            Best luck.

            Christophe
            sigpic

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            • #7
              The miss is immedaite with the opening of the throttle, not a second or two later like it would take to drain the bowl., and even at higher rpms, it will run fine on a very small throttle opening where vacuum is high. It seems odd that the old carb would go bad over a couple of weeks, and both carb bowls are clean. I am looking forward to trying a new dizzy cap this afternoon.

              Thanks!

              Originally posted by christophe View Post
              Hi,

              It looks like a lack of gasoline pressure. It happend to me by the fault of a clogged gas filter. In that case, the idling is perfect but you can't accelerate. You should check the pressure coming from the fuel pump or feed the carb by gravity. You can also try to run with a little choke on. If that is better, the problem is the pressure and/or the main jet is clogged.

              Best luck.

              Christophe
              Last edited by Ron Dame; 06-07-2010, 07:17 AM.
              Ron Dame
              '63 Champ

              Comment


              • #8
                Ron, I hope my theory is the one. "Kamzack's" idea about the cracked head is something I have heard of before and sounds like a much more expensive problem. I have never owned one of the OHV 6's before so I have no experience with them. The "carbon tracking" and cracked cap problem is something I am very familiar with and from a wide range of engines. If you have one, it wouldn't hurt to try a new rotor (if one is involved with the petronix). Key is to only try one fix at a time. Good luck and let us know what you find. The solution could be a good lesson for the rest of us.
                John Clary
                Greer, SC

                SDC member since 1975

                Comment


                • #9
                  yes..please confirm to us later the "solution"....

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Bad Coil?

                    (XXXKKKKKOO This is because the machine told me that my reply was "too short)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Unfortunately, yours is not the solution: I tried two older caps that were replaced only 'because it was time" and no change. I can't imagine 3 bad caps and rotors. I even stuck in a known good, but used dizzy with conventional points. No good. Used but OK coil, no change.

                      It's not ignition, it just can't be. I'm going through the AS again, since it all happens once I get off the idle and low speed circuits..it's all about throttle position and intake vacuum. And why did the RBS start doing the same thing as soon as I reinstalled it? I wonder: can weak or broken valve springs do this? will bad gas idle and do OK with high vacuum, but run like cr@p with wider throttle openings? What else am I missing?


                      Originally posted by jclary View Post
                      Ron, I hope my theory is the one. "Kamzack's" idea about the cracked head is something I have heard of before and sounds like a much more expensive problem. I have never owned one of the OHV 6's before so I have no experience with them. The "carbon tracking" and cracked cap problem is something I am very familiar with and from a wide range of engines. If you have one, it wouldn't hurt to try a new rotor (if one is involved with the petronix). Key is to only try one fix at a time. Good luck and let us know what you find. The solution could be a good lesson for the rest of us.
                      Ron Dame
                      '63 Champ

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well...so much for my ability. Keep digging and let us know.
                        John Clary
                        Greer, SC

                        SDC member since 1975

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          So this isn't a backfire out of the tailpipe? It's popping back through the carburetor, is that correct?
                          Restorations by Skip Towne

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                          • #14
                            yes, nice blue flames out of the carb.

                            I just reinstalled the AS, I had found the vacuum to the choke pull off was plugged, which explained my earliest won't start or won't run problems. Maybe some of this problem was from the choke set too lean, and it not really being warmed up in the garage and really running too lean.

                            I'm not in the position to drive tonight (I DO like GOOD beer), but in just revving in the garage, it seems much better..still a bit of popping with a quick rev, like not enough accelerator pump, even though it's a good healthy squirt, but still far better. I'll drive it tomorrow and keep tweaking.

                            I still wonder about valve springs and bad gas.
                            Last edited by Ron Dame; 06-07-2010, 02:59 PM.
                            Ron Dame
                            '63 Champ

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yes, either of these issues can cause a backfire. Check for water in the gas first. Steve
                              sigpic

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