I am looking for a 52 spoke ( or less ) wire wheel to fit my car. I would like to have a Studebaker insignia on the hub cap part of the wheel. My car has disc/drum brakes. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. I am a 24 year member of SDC. Thanks, Phil
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1963 R-2 Gran Turismo Hawk
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Buy aftermarket wire wheels for Ford or Mopar, put the Studebaker wheel decals from Studebaker International on them. 4 1/2 inch bolt circle, 15/7 inch.
Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Daytona Convert.
JDP Maryland
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quote:Originally posted by JDP
4 1/2 inch bolt circle, 15/7 inch.
had a 14 x 7 on my 60 Hawk, I had to "negotiate" with the fender lip
to get the tire/rim to not rub on corners. Keep in mind that the
rear springs allow a decent amount of movement, and even MORE on the
later LONGER leaf Hawks! If you get the 'right' offset, you can go
to a 8 or 9 wide possibly. You will be looking for a 60's vintage.
Tom
1963 Studebaker Avanti, 102,000, custom made brake brackets to mount 1998 Mustang GT 4 wheel disc brakes (soon to get 13" Cobra front brakes, 2003 Mustang Cobra 17" wheels, GM altenator, will be getting : 97 Camaro Z28 tan leather seats, 97 Camaro Z28 T-56 6-speed trans, Ported 'R3' style Avanti heads with stainless full flow valves, 'R3' 276 duration cam w/chrysler solid lifters, shortened push rods, aluminum cam gear, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires, waiting in the garage.'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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Welcome to the forum, Phil. Do you have a Dual Ghia, as your ID suggests?
We have taken this question/issue off the SDC forum.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
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15x7 will be fine, with 1/4" to 3/4" offset on a C-K body. More offset (more backspacing) will allow wider tires, but with a full 3/4" offset then you start to get awful close to the tie rod end.
Dayton can probably make you a wheel to your specs, if money is no object.
nate
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55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
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55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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quote:Originally posted by dualghia
I am looking for a 52 spoke ( or less ) wire wheel to fit my car. I would like to have a Studebaker insignia on the hub cap part of the wheel. My car has disc/drum brakes. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated. I am a 24 year member of SDC. Thanks, Phil
CHEVPARTSMAN@ALLTEL.NET
1961 HAWK..BLACK.. 4bc,4-speed,TT
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quote:Originally posted by N8N
15x7 will be fine, with 1/4" to 3/4" offset on a C-K body. More offset (more backspacing) will allow wider tires, but with a full 3/4" offset then you start to get awful close to the tie rod end.
opening doesnt leave a lot of room for tires w/7" wide rim. Trust
me on this, I ran a 7 inch wide rim, and HAD to modify the fender!
The front cleared fine, but on full lock, the tire would rub the zerk
fitting on the upper control arm pin. A 15 inch rims might help to
solve that problem (I had 14"). I know that the 17" I have on my 63
Avanti eliminated that problem. They are 8 inch wide. You COULD run
the offset rim that I have, and then use 1/2 spacers on the front. I
am not comfortable using 1/2 spacer on a stock diameter wheel stud.
You could use a bolt-on 3/4 spacer on the front, and no spacer rear.
(thats with a 8 inch wide rim w/ 5 inch backspacing).
Tom'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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Tom, it's all in the offset. I am guessing you were running a zero offset wheel? I have MoPar cop car wheels (3/4" offset) on my '55 coupe, even with 245s in the back there's plenty of room. In the front I actually added a 1/4" spacer to avoid the zerk fitting problem you describe.
I had some Jag wire wheels on my car previously that with their adapters were about 1/4" offset; I could only run 215/70s on those. Looked good, though, if you like wire wheels.
nate
--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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quote:Originally posted by N8N
Tom, it's all in the offset. I am guessing you were running a zero offset wheel?
back yard right now. Offset is definately the key, as the 8" Cobra
wheels would easily work on a Hawk, since the wheel is closer to the
rear leaf, then the fender! I was just expanding on the potential
difficulties that can raise their ugly head if not careful. With the
17" rim, the tire clears the zerk, but because of the backspacing,
the rim will hit the zerk .... and that leads me back to why I made
those Cobra brake brackets ...(rotor is .27 at hub)
Tom'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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Another thing to keep in mind is scrub radius, which is basically the distance between the kingpin axis and the centerline of the tire's contact patch... if the scrub radius is significant and the tire is outboard of the kingpin axis, the car may feel "darty" and if it's too much the other way it will be very stable but a little dead feeling. I have a Porsche 944 which has a monster scrub radius and you do have to watch when you're driving that the car doesn't pull itself off in some odd direction when you're not looking. So I'd try to keep the wheels in about the same range of offsets as stock, which is about 3/4" to 1" depending on which wheels the car was originally equipped with.
Now with your brake conversion - you're throwing another wrinkle in there, the thickness of the rotor hub (as compared to the original drum center...)
Probably not HUGELY important in the grand scheme of things, but something to think about. I do like the "deep dish" wheel look, but I don't think it will work well on a Studebaker unless you narrow the suspension, even if you work out the fender clearance issues.
nate
--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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quote:Originally posted by N8N
Now with your brake conversion - you're throwing another wrinkle in there, the thickness of the rotor hub (as compared to the original drum center...)
thing with their own conversion to disc, since the earlier cars had
a drum pressed on the outside of the hub, the disc brake cars have
the rotor on the inside of the hub, which means that there is the
thickness of the drum between the two, thats roughly 1/8 inch between
the two factory setups. Thats means my conversion is just a hair
over 1/8 inch more then a stock drum brake car. Dave at Steeltech
had stated that his 12 inch kit moved the wheel out between 1/4 and
1/2 from stock. I was originally going to go with his kit, and even
had supplied him with a dimension to check, but it was Christmas time
and he didnt get back to me, and no money, so I designed my own setup.
Tom'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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well, if you're only pushing the fronts out... that's not all bad. The fronts (at least on a C-K, on a Lark it's a whole 'nother issue) can come out a little bit and if you hold the rears in the same place, that will actually help you when it comes to picking a set of wheels - can run more offset which means bigger tires in the rear...
nate
--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
--
55 Commander Starlight
http://members.cox.net/njnagel
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quote:Originally posted by N8N
well, if you're only pushing the fronts out... that's not all bad.
thickness back there too - 1/4. It really all comes down to research,
measuring and a little luck.
There is an issue with Avanti II's hitting the front fender on a bump
at full lock. I am not sure if it can happen on the Stude version,
but I know that many Avanti II's have cracked front fenders. They
added a piece of fiberglas to the opening when they lifted the body
on the frame. I guess they continued the curve, and that brought it
closed to the fender? Since I got the Cobra wheels, it brought the
tire back in, so it isnt an issue.
Tom'63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them
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