R2 carb change

[ghofstetter]

Edelbrock tech advisor told me this morning that they don't recommend putting one of their carbs on a supercharged avanti R2 as a replacement for the carter carb. Any suggestions on how to get my car running better.

George Hofstetter

[GTtim]

Why do you think the issue is with the carb? Ignition timing, spark plug wires, condition of the distributor advance mechanisms and fuel delivery all affect performance. Lets have a discussion about what you've done and what you may need to do.
Dave Thebeault and Daytona Carburetors are the main people to send the carb to to get it rebuilt.


Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[ghofstetter]

The previous owner thought the carb change would be the best fix.

George Hofstetter

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by ghofstetter

The previous owner thought the carb change would be the best fix.

George Hofstetter

Fix for what?

-Dick-

[ghofstetter]

Hard to start. Cuts out or sputters. Lot of gas going into carb.

George Hofstetter

[N8N]

For some reason I had the same problem with an older (non-Stude) Carter AFB carb and I set the floats about 1/16" low, no more problem.

also make sure that the floats still float, and finally, make sure you have a good inline fuel filter so that there's no junk getting stuck in the needle and seat. Being a R2 you should have a little glass bowl with a "stone" in it. If you don't have the "stone" the rebuild kit for the 55 to 60-mumble fuel pump comes with one (the standard fuel pump had the glass bowl and filter as part of the inlet assembly, which I like best of all as there's no crap going through the fuel pump, but the R-series pump doesn't have this internal filter.)

good luck,

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[ghofstetter]

previous owner also removed one set of points. Does this effect my other problems I have mentioned?


George Hofstetter

[GTtim]

Removed one set of points from a dual point distributor? That's a new one on me! Personally, I would tend to disregard whatever the previous owner said after learning that. I would start by trying to get things put back to normal or getting a newly refurbished distributor. I would think the distributor could be a major part of your problem.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[ghofstetter]

thanks, I think I have a lot of work to do tommorrow

George Hofstetter

[N8N]

seeing as the dual point dist. is a Prestolite I would pay special attention to the weights and pivots; it's possible there is some wear there. Dave T. can rebuild the dist. however or there are other options if you aren't enamored of points...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

[midnight1957]

You mentioned a lot of gas going into the carb, I had an Edelbrock carb with a Holley fuel pump on one of my 57 Chevys and it did the same thing. I installed a pressure regulator with gage on it in line and was reading about 8 pounds at the gage. I adjusted it down to about 5 pounds and it ran like a dream then. Edelbrock carbs cannot run as much fuel pressure as a Holley or Carter.
Hope this helps

[GTtim]

George, don't get discouraged. A good Studebaker isn't built in a day. For the most part these cars worked great the way they were made. Unfortunately time has taken its toll and things get loose and sloppy and no longer do their job like they should. Then we have a Studebaker owner, which is synonomous with cheap person, and we find shortcuts being taken and cheap fixes being the norm.
Hard starting for instance could be something as simple as having the wrong spark plug wires or a poorly adjusted choke. Sputtering and dying could be remedied by simply installing a new accelerator pump. At this point patience is a great virtue. Try to do things one at a time. Read the manual carefully and make all the recomended adjustments. Post here when you want advice. We're pulling for you, we're all in this together!

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by ghofstetter

Hard to start. Cuts out or sputters. Lot of gas going into carb.

George Hofstetter

I think I'd be a terrible guy to diagnose problems long distance, but...

Does it start hard when it is cold, hot, or both? Does it turn over slowly or at the normal cranking speed? Do you get black smoke out the tailpipes when it finally does start?

When does it cut out or sputter? Cold, hot, or both? When cornering? When under load? At high rpm or low or all?

What do you mean by "lot of gas going into carb"?

If Gord or Dwain will jump in here, perhaps we can ask the right questions and actually find the problem(s)

-Dick-

[JDP]

I've used the Edelbrocks on a R2's, but it takes a bit of work. You need to swap the AFB top to the new carb,(so the air horn will fit) seal the screws, O ring the idle screws and use the Marine accelerator pump.

Studebaker On The Net http://stude.com
64 GT Hawk
64 R2 4 speed Challenger
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 Daytona Convert.
53 Street rod

[richpease]

quote:Originally posted by N8N

seeing as the dual point dist. is a Prestolite I would pay special attention to the weights and pivots; it's possible there is some wear there. Dave T. can rebuild the dist. however or there are other options if you aren't enamored of points...

nate

--
55 Commander Starlight
62 Daytona hardtop
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Nate,

What are the other options? I think it would be wise at some point to get my 259 away from points. Are you referring to the new distributors being advertised in TW?

Rich Pease
Ogden, UT
59 Lark 2dr
61 Lark 4dr