TUNED headers on 289

[63Avanti]

Back in the late 60's early 70's tuned headers became generally available. They looked like twisted lumps of speghetti, but added significant HP. In the case of my Valient 225 slant 6, they flattened the torque curve, resulting an a very smooth, almost diesel-like shift-where-you-want, acceleration.

In the case of my '63 R2 Avanti, I have a very sharp torque curve, and some obvious backpressure. I would like to solve that "old school"

Q: Are there tuned headers out there for 289s? I realize that they went out of production before the commercial (non-custom) headers became available.

cheers!

terry, 63SR-1065 63avanti@sterkel.org

http://sterkel.org/avanti

[DEEPNHOCK]

Try giving Meyer's Studebaker a call in Duncan Falls, Ohio.
I have seen several sets of headers on teir tables at shows they attend.

http://www.myersstudebaker.com/

Hope the info helps.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by tsterkel

Back in the late 60's early 70's tuned headers became generally available. They looked like twisted lumps of speghetti, but added significant HP. In the case of my Valient 225 slant 6, they flattened the torque curve, resulting an a very smooth, almost diesel-like shift-where-you-want, acceleration.

In the case of my '63 R2 Avanti, I have a very sharp torque curve, and some obvious backpressure. I would like to solve that "old school"

Q: Are there tuned headers out there for 289s? I realize that they went out of production before the commercial (non-custom) headers became available.

cheers!

terry, 63SR-1065 63avanti@sterkel.org

http://sterkel.org/avanti

DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
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'61 Hawk

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[Mike Van Veghten]

If you're half good with a torch...go buy a hand full of tubing, some flat plate and build your own. Or call Ed's Headers, I believe they have flanges...his aren't cheap though. I'd use 1-1/2" dia. tubing. Many seem to want to use larger, be carefull, that'll kill the bottom end power.

I have a good friend that worked at Headman for years. He still builds on the side for extra bucks. We're on the West Coast. I'm going to try my hand at it when I get the 299 into my Conestoga. If I f-up too bad, I'll call him to bail me out!!!

[DEEPNHOCK]

Meyer's has the precut flanges at $70 (IIRC)
Headers by Ed has the 3 tube collector for about $135 (also IIRC)
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

If you're half good with a torch...go buy a hand full of tubing, some flat plate and build your own. Or call Ed's Headers, I believe they have flanges...his aren't cheap though. I'd use 1-1/2" dia. tubing. Many seem to want to use larger, be carefull, that'll kill the bottom end power.

I have a good friend that worked at Headman for years. He still builds on the side for extra bucks. We're on the West Coast. I'm going to try my hand at it when I get the 299 into my Conestoga. If I f-up too bad, I'll call him to bail me out!!!

DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[Alan]

Use a 2" on the center port. 1 1/2" on the ends and swedge the 1.5"s to 2" at the ends and use the 3 tube 2"X3" collector. On a Stude I have found that the tube lengths and collector lengths change the torque peak of the engine so you have to tune the headers with the cam.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Jeff,
How thick are Meyers flanges?

Alan,
On ANY engine....the primary tube dia, primary tube length, collector diameter and length, "all" move the power around the RPM scale. Can also add or subtract power depending on how it's done.

A 3" collector is kinda big for a small Stude engine, just a thought.

[Alan]

That's what I was trying to say. The 2"X 3" collectors for Chev and Buicks are cheep around here, at the Long Beach Swap they are in the $5-10 range. The Stude flanges I make myself. But I make them out of stainless. Of course the collectors I use are by Borla also ss.

[Kdancy]

Alan,
Do you have any pictures of a stude set you have made up?

53commander HDTP
53 Champion HDTP
61 Cursed Purple Hawk
64 Champ long bed V8
64 GT

[Mike Van Veghten]

Alan,

Just a thought...
Why make the center 2" when the rest 1-1/2"?
I know Headers by Ed states that........but in my oh so humble opinion...
I will be using 1-3/4" for my center. The reason being that the two cylinders are seperated by another cylinder in the firing order. Thus, there is only one pulse flowing in that tube at a time with some amount of space before the next pulse starts to flow. Both sides of the block have the same combination in the center.

It might be fun to make the center a slip in tube and make a bunch of'em....1-1/2", 1-3/4", 1-7/8" and 2". See what works the best in actual use rather than on paper!

[Alan]

I have to stretch the sides of the 2" tube less to fit in the hole in the flange and 2" stainless tube is cheeper than 1 3/4" or 1 7/8".

[oldvinyl]

Iam currently building about 20 sets of dividers to adapt to the center ports to give true equal tuned headers. Its a lenghty job, and requires heads off and porting work. The center ports when finished look like a dogbone mopar. Ill try and get some pics soon, The primary pipes are 1-7/8ths by 34 inches into 4 into one 3" Hooker adjustable race collectors. This modification is best suited for bigger valve heads with 1.87 inlets and 1.60 exhaust valves. Mufflers should be very free flowing and not more than 2 feet from collector. 2-1/2 in 2-1/2 outlets. This will make a paxton equipped 289 a street warrior with good induction and an R-3 cam. Aspirated headers are 4-into 1 1-5/8ths primarys by 26-28 inches into 3 inch by 7 inch long collectors into same free flow muffs. this will give great low end fat torque with stock cam, also work great with mild performance cam. With the 1-5/8ths headers use 2-1/2 inlets and 2-1/4 outlets on free flowing mufflers, this raises the low end torque a bit more on a street engine, it gives better throttle response. and great mid range power over stock manifolds. Tom

[Mike Van Veghten]

Alan,
Don't have to stretch them. Us a bigger tube and neck it down quickly.

Oldvinyl,
Know little about the actual workings of a Paxton blown Stude engine....but the fairly high end engine program I've got doesn't get into 1-5/8 primaries untill 7500rpm or a few more cubic inches with carburation only. Have you tried 1-1/2" primaries?
I know 1-5/8" works well on bigger....small (302, 327, 350) Chevy, Ford and Chryslers. With the "smaller" engines having a different configuration of bore and stroke...which matters in "all things power making".

[Alan]

Mike, I have a 20 ton hydraulic press that I use a tapered plug on, just tack the 2" tube in 4 spots around the tube at the flange then put it in the press. Voila!

[DEEPNHOCK]

IIRC, they are 1/4" plate stock (all on one plate.
Jeff[8D]

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Jeff,
How thick are Meyers flanges?

Alan,
On ANY engine....the primary tube dia, primary tube length, collector diameter and length, "all" move the power around the RPM scale. Can also add or subtract power depending on how it's done.

A 3" collector is kinda big for a small Stude engine, just a thought.

DEEPNHOCK at Cox.net
'37 Coupe Express
'37 Coupe Express Trailer
'61 Hawk

http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

[Mike Van Veghten]

Jeff,

Thanks.
There's a shop close to work here that'll plasma cut'em for about $60.00 a set, blanchard ground. I'm gonna go for 5/16" or 3/8" thick.
After the header is consturcted, I'll cut the dividers out and make a coupla other diameters for the center to take with me to the gas station and the drag races.

I just have to give them a dwg.

I'd like to do a four tube set too, but as Alan or someone said, a little different center port, porting needs to be performed.