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S-10 frame swap on a 53 Starliner

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  • S-10 frame swap on a 53 Starliner

    I have a 292 Chevy-6 that I want to suff in the car. The frame is in good condition but I can pick up a 2-wheel drive S-10 frame for cheap. Has anyone done one?

  • #2
    The weight difference is about 150 lbs. but the 6 is longer and the weight is further over the front end, put a 289 in it, it will go faster handle better, be worth more, be less work, what have you been smoking.


    • #3
      Oh man that hurts, S-10 You may be sincere, and looking for ways to upgrade the studebaker as for brakes and other issues, Keep the stock frame and if its in great condition, and your car is good and sound, and you insist on rodding it keep it All stude, except for a changeover to a 9 inch or other stronger rear diff. Front end parts are still plentiful, also disc brake conversions. The stude suspension is a great design. A fresh 289 Stude when prepped right will play mind games on your Chevy pals minds especially when you lock your hood so there is no show and tell. A 4:56 rear gearset and 4-speed will make them gag on their cheese burgers, as you blast out at 6500 RPM past the drive in. Please stay tuned to this forum, and join a Studebaker club in your vicinity. Tom


      • #4
        And if you really feel the need to put a Chevy Six into your car, I'd go with a 4.3L V-6. The six cylinders on the '53's was a flat-head design. The hood is low. I'm not sure if the OHV inline six would have hood clearance regardless of what frame you used.

        I would keep the Stude frame. Depending on the rear end, you may be able to keep that too. Ford 9" are getting harder to come by, but the 8.8" are plentiful and come in many sizes. If you need an IFS, many companies like TCI (Total Cost Involved) have Mustang II style kits that will fit anything and will allow the switch to rack&pinion steering.

        Having said all that, I think it depends on what you have to start with. If you have a rather complete car and not a 'roller', I'd probably go the all Stude route. Parts are available and are not unreasonable. Good luck.

        Tom - Sterling Heights, MI

        Ancient Chinese Proverb: "Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown!"

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - Laguna Blue, Original 4-Spd. Car, Power Steering, Disc Brakes, Bucket Seats, Tinted Glass, Climatizer Ventilation System, AM Radio (136,989 Miles)
        Tom - Bradenton, FL

        1964 Studebaker Daytona - 289 4V, 4-Speed (Cost To Date: $2514.10)
        1964 Studebaker Commander - 170 1V, 3-Speed w/OD


        • #5
          Thanks for the info guys. Just a quick note. I acquired the car just 3 weeks ago. No engine or trans, but it has an 8-inch rear. No gauges as well. My neighbor offered his 292 for free and a buddy gave me his Muncie 4-speed as well. I run the dry lakes and initially considered (and still inclined to do so) turn it into a race car...which would require a roll cage. However, I'm having second thoughts. Something else I've considered in a 215 aluminum Olds V-8 (which I have installed in my dune buggy) and putting it in the car. You can probably guess I don't know quite what to do at this point. So far I have 1500 invested in this project and being a hot rodder, I like the challange of keeping the cost down with a little help from my freinds. Keep the ideas comin'.


          • #6
            We would like to see some pictures to see where you are starting from. On the gagues do you mean the stock Stude ones? Is the dash still there? If you are giong to rod it anyway it would be best to put a later Hawk dash in it. The aluminum V8 is allright but, you will need to put in lighter springs in the front. Take that 292 and put it in a 50's Chevy truck and pull the Stude around. And on the S10 frame don't even bother, It will have to be modified because the wheel base difference and at the rear the kick up for the bed, too much work for what you could gain. If any thing.


            • #7
              I would think that this (S10 frame) would be a lot of work with little or no gain. I know of Studebakers, like '50 and '51 Starlights, on S10 frames. I do not know of any C/K bodies on S10 frames. Keep in mind that the C/K body, like your Starliner, has a 120.5 inch wheelbase.

              John/JDP, has someone looking for a '53-'54 Starliner body. Your car sounds like a great candidate, if you would be inclined to sell it.
              Gary L.
              Wappinger, NY

              SDC member since 1968
              Studebaker enthusiast much longer


              • #8
                The Inline 230-250 Chevy 6 inline will fit, and by using the 1966 front mount adaptors that were used to install the small block V8 you will have a shoe in. These are cast iron mounts and bolt to the 53 frame with little bother, you may have to drill a few holes. Mock up your inline engine and do a trial fit. Clifford research makes some decent parts for inline chevys. The 215 Aluminum block is worth gold , you can get high dollars for the engine, and use the cash to get your rolling chassis looking very good and safe. The real engine that you need to look at is the Stude v8. There is nothing more exciting than to see a nice project go together with a warmed up 259-289 or R-2 R-3 engine. These engines in my humble opinion are one of the toughest ever built., I have spent nearly 30 years building chevrolet performance engines., The Stude factory engines machine out like expensive GM bowtie versions, They take gobbs of supercharger boost, These 2-bolt main blocks are rugged, and can hang together well in race trim. Street performance is very desirable. Tom