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REAR SPRING SHACKLES

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  • REAR SPRING SHACKLES

    I'M IN THE PROCESS OF REMOVING THE REAR LEAFS FROM MY '64 DAYTONA ( REAR BUSHINGS MOSTLY GONE, NOISY!). BESIDES THE USUAL WD40 AND SKINNED KNUCKLES, HOW DO YA GET THE REMAINS OF THE BUSHING OUT OF THE FRAME? I BEAT THE LOWER SLEEVE OUT W/A CHISEL AND PUNCH, BUT I STUCK THE SHACKLE IN A VISE. THE UPPERS LOOK LIKE THEY'LL BE A PAIN....
    I CAN'T WAIT TO GET IT BACK TOGETHER W/NEW BUSHINGS, I HATE SQUEAKS!

  • #2
    I have not done this yet myself, so I can only offer this article at Chuck Collin's StudebakerParts.com website:

    http://www.studebakerparts.com/stude.../shklbush.html

    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup

    Paul Simpson
    "DilloCrafter"

    1955 1/2 Ton Pickup
    The Red-Headed Amazon
    Deep in the heart of Texas

    Comment


    • #3
      That's a good link and Chuck describes it well. I'd like to echo his last point of NOT tightening the shackle bolts UNTIL the car's back on the ground. This prevents you preloading the bushings in a distended configuration.

      Miscreant at large.

      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President 2-dr
      1955 President State
      1951 Champion Biz cpe
      1963 Daytona project FS
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        THANKS FOR THE LINK, GUYS! I LOVE THE SHOP MANUAL WHEN IT SEZ: "REMOVE OLD BUSHING", AND THAT'S IT!!![]

        Comment


        • #5
          I put springs back together once, use dry ice to 'shrink' the big too thick part that need to be put into a seemely smaller hole.

          Comment


          • #6
            THERE WAS BASICALLY NO RUBBER LEFT IN THE REAR LOWERS, THE UPPERS WERE A LITTLE BETTER. I HAD TO USE A COLD CHISEL AND PUNCH/HAMMER TO REMOVE THE ALMOST HAMMER WELDED SLEEVE FROM THE SPRING EYE. I'LL TRY THE PULLER SETUP IN THE UPPERS, BUT IT DOESN'T LOOK PROMISING.
            I'M TAKING THE SPRINGS IN TO A SPRING SHOP TOMORROW TO ADD A LEAF. I'LL HAVE 'EM PRESS OUT THE FORWARD BUSHINGS, AND INSTALL THE NEW ONES.

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm currently facing the same bushing problem with a '63 Wagonaire I bought recently. A puller made from 7/16-14 all-thread can work, I guess, but on rusty old Studes, the standard hardware store grade of threaded rod is not strong enough, nor are the washers that will just catch the edge of the bushing sleeve. A specialty fastener supplier may have the B7 grade of all-thread, which MIGHT work, along with grade 8 washers. In the end, I have had to use a torch to cook the rubber enough to drive it out with the inner sleeve (gas tank and filler neck removed from car!!!), then used an air chisel to cut the wall of the bushing at the open part of the spring eye. Then I used the air chisel to drive it out. For the sleeve in the frame, where it's not easy to get the chisel to catch the sleeve, I mounted a blade upside down in a hacksaw frame and made two cuts - very carefully - through the sleeve wall. Then the air chisel could move the sleeve. I got the cheap air chisel from Harbor Freight. If it falls apart after even this one job, it will have paid for itself! I tried the hammer and cold chisel approach for an hour before giving it up. I'm almost done with this part of the job, now.

              Gary Ash
              Dartmouth, MA
              '48 M5
              '65 Wagonaire Commander
              '63 Wagonaire Standard
              www.studegarage.com
              Gary Ash
              Dartmouth, Mass.

              '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
              ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
              '48 M5
              '65 Wagonaire Commander
              '63 Wagonaire Standard
              web site at http://www.studegarage.com

              Comment


              • #8
                I MADE A PULLER, USING GRADE 5 ROD, WASHERS, NUTS AND A 5/8" SOCKET THAT THE OUTSIDE O/D IS PERFECT. ONE SIDE CAME OUT (AFTER BENDING 2 RODS)BUT THE DRIVER'S SIDE IS NO GO.(THESE ARE ON THE FRAME) THE END OF THE SLEEVE BECAME TOO MASHED (I TRIED BOTH SIDES)FOR THE SOCKET TO SEAT PROPERLY. I'M ABOUT OUT OF RODS NOW, I THINK I'LL TRY CUTTING AS YOU DESCRIBED-THANKS..

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                • #9
                  I once made a 'pusher' for this job. I made this tool with a frame-work that would grip the frame and hold the push assembly in place. I believe I too used a 5/8 socket to push. Remember, WD40 and a torch will help convince the part that it needs to come out. Might want to drop the gas tank before you light up the torch.

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                  • #10
                    Gary has the same method I used..but..I never bothered to drop the gas tank, and still used a torch..daring??..or stupid??? I guess both..but more lucky I guess....Anyhow..heat really helps!! I thought I was going to melt the frame work at one point..but it was all I could do to get the damn things out..An air hammer helps too!!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      This worked for me on a Brand-X...

                      get yourself a GOOD hacksaw blade and either a leather work glove or some friction tape... (so you don't cut your hand to s**t) use the hacksaw to cut all the way through the outer shell of the bushing at least twice, beat the remains out with a hammer and dull cold chisel

                      good luck

                      nate

                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      62 Daytona hardtop
                      http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
                      --
                      55 Commander Starlight
                      http://members.cox.net/njnagel

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I GOT THEM OUT, THE 2ND ONE ONLY TOOK 3 DAYS, WORKING A BIT HERE AND THERE![xx(]YOU GUYS WERE RIGHT ON WITH THE PULLER LINK FOR THE FIRST ONE, THE 2ND ONE I BUGGERED UP THE ENDS SO MY PULLER MANDREL COULDN'T GET A BITE ON THE SLEEVE. (I BENT SEVERAL PIECES OF #5 ROD IN THE PROCESS) AFTER THE FOREMENTIONED HACKSAW TRICK AND SOME HAMMERING, THE THING FINALLY STARTED MOVING W/THE PULLER.
                        THE NEW ONES WENT IN REAL SLICK, AND I GOT THE SPRINGS BACK FROM THE SHOP TODAY; RE ARCHED, ADDED LEAF, NEW SPACERS(ANTI SQUEAK) ETC., AND NEW BUSHINGS PRESSED IN!
                        THANKS FOR THE HELP...

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          And, of course, you put some Never-Seize on the outside of the bushings so that the next time would be easier. Didn't you?

                          Gary Ash
                          Dartmouth, MA
                          '48 M5
                          '65 Wagonaire Commander
                          '63 Wagonaire Standard
                          www.studegarage.com
                          Gary Ash
                          Dartmouth, Mass.

                          '32 Indy car replica (in progress)
                          ’41 Commander Land Cruiser
                          '48 M5
                          '65 Wagonaire Commander
                          '63 Wagonaire Standard
                          web site at http://www.studegarage.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            I am taking notes for the upcoming replacement on our Provincial. Last time around, I used a quick release from a bicycle on the 66', it worked, but it was still a giant pain, with hours of washer and spacer juggling. The quick release was the only thing that was able to move the one cramped side, although only 1/8" at a time.

                            Ross.
                            57 Provincial
                            58 Transtar
                            66 Wagonaire
                            sigpic
                            Ross.
                            Riverside, Ca.
                            1957 Provincial X2
                            1958 Transtar

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