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Distributor Upgrade

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  • Distributor Upgrade

    I am considering a couple of options for my 61 hawk 289.
    First is to have the original Delco Remy 1110980 distributor rebuilt and include an electronic ignition kit. Can anyone recomend a someone that does this?
    Second is to purchase a new electronic distributor (Accel, Pertronix, Mallory ect.) Can anyone advise as to what's been successfully used and where to buy?
    Thanks,
    Mike


  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by Churchie

    I am considering a couple of options for my 61 hawk 289.
    First is to have the original Delco Remy 1110980 distributor rebuilt and include an electronic ignition kit. Can anyone recomend a someone that does this?
    Second is to purchase a new electronic distributor (Accel, Pertronix, Mallory ect.) Can anyone advise as to what's been successfully used and where to buy?
    Thanks,
    Mike

    I'd say it strictly depends on you Mike. To keep it as stock appearing as posible and get good performance/driveability, go with the Delco. If you want max performance, the aftermarket stuff would probably do that a tad better. I have to tell ya, I have a Pertronix in a Delco in my own Studebaker and I couldn't be happier. I've had many different aftermarket ignition systems, (not just in Studebakers), and although the "cool effect" was there, I think that I only ever really realized any extra potential from the aftermarket systems when I was racing.

    Your call, but I'd get that Delco on a distributor machine and get it set up with the Pertronix. Oh! Don't forget to get the "big" Pertronix coil.

    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com
    Sonny
    http://RacingStudebakers.com

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    • #3
      I'm with Sonny here. Get the pertronix unit for your Delco and go with that. It's easy to install the Pertronix module and it makes a difference in performance.[]
      I've heard a very few reports of Pertronix module failures but I've heard more happy results over all. Besides, since you don't physically alter the distributor to adapt to the module, carry along your old points and condenser as an "emergency back-up".

      Miscreant at large.
      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

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      • #4
        Hi There and good luck in what ever you do. I agree with Sonny and Mr Biggs . I am very dumb when comes to studebakers.I work on a lot of classic cars and have installed over 100 Pertronix units and only had one that failed and it never left left the stall where it was put in.
        we have removed few accel and mallory to install Pertronix.Our classic owners likes them.

        Jack

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        • #5
          Thanks for the feedback.
          I too was leaning toward continuing with the Delco , if this unit can be successfully rebuilt. The rotor has ground a grove in the cap terminals measuring about 1/16" deep. I have looked at the shop manual, but don't see any bushings to replace that may be worn. Does anyone have an idea of the cause / cure or if the distributor must be replaced?

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          • #6
            I had the Prestolite from my '64 Daytona rebuilt this winter, great job for just over $100. They have Pertronix for just about everything also.
            Try them; Philbin Group (Portland OR)503-287-1718
            www.philbingroup.com

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            • #7
              The shaft ought to be able to be rebushed if you know a good distributor shop, but if it's really that bad, maybe another unit might be only a little more expensive. AFAIK "the bomb" setup seems to be Dave Thibeault's Prestolite/MoPar unit; he claims that a properly set up Presto has much less spark timing variation than a Delco. The Presto got a bad rap though because the stock weights didn't have bushings and tended to wear out the pivot pins. If you get it rebuilt with bushings in the weights those problems go away. The downside to this conversion is now you have an external spark box to mount, but the upside is if you are into performance you can trigger an aftermarket CD box like a MSD or similar straight off the MoPar Hall sender and not use the MoPar box at all (although it is pretty good for most normal use, honestly.)

              nate

              --
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              62 Daytona hardtop
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