R2 Carb Flooding

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

I have my Hawk engine put back together after it eating the carb bonnets flapper valve. The flapper valve damaged the number 2 exhaust valve, so I had it reground and the seat polished.

My problem was two fold when the Hawk stopped working last summer, a missing flapper valve and flooding carburetor which I forgot about until trying to start it today.

I took the carburetor apart prior to installing it on the Hawk, changed the jetting and metering rods that I had purchased and never had a chance to install last summer before things went sideways.

The carburetor is spewing gas out of the vent tubes on the accelerator pump side of the carburetor after not .

I took the carburetor apart again and looked at the needles,... they looked fine, and blew the seats out with compressed air and put it all back together again.

No luck the carburetor is still flooding gas out of the vent tubes.

What are the tell tale signs of a bad needle and seat?





1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[bige]

Check the floats to see if they still float. Shake and listen for liquid or rattling. It would be hard to see a bad needle or seat. You can check them by holding the top of the carb upside down and blowing into the inlet. If they are good you won't be able to blow any air through



1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Thanks. I'll check to see if the floats float tomorrow, and blow into the vent to check the needle and seat. I did not notice anything in the floats but I did notice one of the needles hanging up when I flipped the carburetor top over. I pushed the float up a couple of times and the needle seemed to drop as it was suppose to.

I did re-adjust the float levels to approx 3/8" with the carburetor top flipped over. Float drop was set to approx 23/32".

Any other suggestions?

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[bige]

Nothing else comes to mind at the moment. If there is a good thing about a flooding carb is that it really can only be float/needle and seat related unless you have a killer electric fuel pump overpowering everything.

Blow into the fuel inlet not the vent.

Just keep the fire extinguisher handy

ErnieR



1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Thanks Ernie,

quote:Blow into the fuel inlet not the vent.

Umm, yes that would make more sense.

Allen


1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[KOOL R2]

Allen,

You may have a problem with the floats not being parallel. They fit very close to the bowl sides and can cause flooding if they touch. Double check that both floats are parallel

Peter

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Thanks guys. Just to clarify,... if gas is coming out of the vent tubes it can be only be a couple of things.

1)Floats not working properly... like not floating, fuel in the floats,or getting stuck against the wall of the fuel bowl(parallel).

2)bad seat

3)bad needle

Does the float level matter if I am off the 3/8" mark slightly?

What does float drop have to do with this equation?

The engine turns over for about 20 seconds before gas comes out of the vent tubes. I'm running a stock R2 fuel pump so it is not over pressurized by an electric fuel pump.

If gas is coming out only on the accelerator pump side vent tubes is that suggesting I have a problem with that particular needle seat or float?

I don't mind taking this apart a couple more time to get this problem solved but the biggest pain is getting the three "no-see-ems" back on the carburetor linkages without losing them.


Allen



1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[bige]

I would suspect the accel side over the right side if it overflows there first. Indesperation you could swap parts side to side and see if the condition moves along with them

quote:Originally posted by studebaker-R2-4-me

Thanks guys. Just to clarify,... if gas is coming out of the vent tubes it can be only be a couple of things.

1)Floats not working properly... like not floating, fuel in the floats,or getting stuck against the wall of the fuel bowl(parallel).

2)bad seat

3)bad needle

Does the float level matter if I am off the 3/8" mark slightly?

What does float drop have to do with this equation?

The engine turns over for about 20 seconds before gas comes out of the vent tubes. I'm running a stock R2 fuel pump so it is not over pressurized by an electric fuel pump.

If gas is coming out only on the accelerator pump side vent tubes is that suggesting I have a problem with that particular needle seat or float?

I don't mind taking this apart a couple more time to get this problem solved but the biggest pain is getting the three "no-see-ems" back on the carburetor linkages without losing them.


Allen



1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Ernie,

That's exactly what I did already.

quote:I would suspect the accel side over the right side if it overflows there first. Indesperation you could swap parts side to side and see if the condition moves along with them

I swapped out the needle from the accelerator side to the other.

Gas still came out the accel side. I suspect a bad seat on the accelerator side.

I'm going to finish off a Sunday morning game of crib with my girlfriend, then attack my carburetor one more time in the shop with all of the suggestions that you guys have given me.

Thanks.

Allen






1964 R2 GT Hawk

1963 Daytona Convertible
Oakville, Ontario.
Hamilton Chapter

[bige]

Maybe the seat isn't seated. Cross threaded or bad/missing washer?



1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

[bige]

Check those baffles also. You could get one turned around and still assemble the carb. If so could cause a bind but I think now you can narrow it to the seat itself, though.



1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

[Colgate Studebaker]

Along with all the good advise so far, by chance did you replace the fuel pump recently? Reason I ask is because I finished my brothers R2 Avanti last summer and had a flooding issue at low rpm. Turns out the brand new fuel pump from Sasco was putting out 9 1/2 pounds of pressure, when the proper amount is 5.5 to 7. I got a rebuild kit from SI and rebuilt the old pump, which now puts out 6 lbs. The car runs a lot better. B.V.

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Thanks for the input guys.

The first time I took the carburetor off this spring the car had not run for almost a year, hence the fuel bowls were empty and the floats appeared fine and most likely empty. After taking the top of the carburetor off for the 3rd time (and last I hope) I found that the accelerator pump side float was full of gas! Not a big surprise for some of you but the empty fuel bowls really through me. Thanks for asking me to check the floats again. I'm off to battle the traffic in Toronto to go and get a couple of floats for this carburetor. I should be back up and running again this afternoon.

Allen

[studebaker-R2-4-me]

Well Guys thanks alot. I have the Hawk up and running once again. New float installed and no flooding. I had to re-adjust the floats slightly higher to get the engine to finally run. The lifters were noisy so I re-adjusted all the valves. The mods that I did with the jetting and metering rods make the car run very strong now. She is running great. I took her out for a short spin kept her in 1st gear (powershift) traveling about 15 mph tromped on the throttle tires started squealing, threw her into 2nd tires started squealing again.

Great Studebaker Day and it's going to be an even nicer night! I can't believe how much I missed driving that car.

Thanks for the help

Allen

[bige]

Allen,

I'm always interested in rod/jet combos that work well. What did you end up installing?

You just want to keep driving and driving when they run right, don't you?

ErnieR