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  • Avanti Power Steering Hose Replacement

    I am planning to replace all of my 1963 Avanti R2 power steering hoses, as they are tired and old. Is is possible/advisable to change them without removing the control valve from the car?

    The description in the shop manual seems to indicate that this is how it is done, but my experience with tubing wrenches in tight places tells me that I may be kidding myself.

    Any opinions from experience will be appreciated.

    Thank you, Bill Henderson

  • #2
    quote:Originally posted by wfhenderson

    I am planning to replace all of my 1963 Avanti R2 power steering hoses, as they are tired and old. Is is possible/advisable to change them without removing the control valve from the car?
    The description in the shop manual seems to indicate that this is how it is done, but my experience with tubing wrenches in tight places tells me that I may be kidding myself.
    Any opinions from experience will be appreciated.
    It certainly can be done without removing the control valve. If you don't have them, get a set of stubby open end wrenches- don't mess with tubing wrenches. It's still a knuckle buster and you may shed a little blood. Big thing is you have to reinstall them in exact order or you will find yourself having to take one (or more) off to get one on. And, be very careful to get the hose end fitting threaded correctly. This is not a place where you want to deal with cross-threading damage.



    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
    '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

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    • #3
      Not all replacement hoses are created equal at least not when I last did the job. I would try to buy them from someone who actually installs them like Dave T or Jon Meyer. A few that I purchased were not bent correctly.



      1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

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      • #4
        Also, it's easiest to cut the old ones off close to the nut and use a socket to remove the nut at the valve.



        1988 "Beater" Avanti---R2 R5388 @ Macungie 2006

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        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by bige

          Not all replacement hoses are created equal at least not when I last did the job. I would try to buy them from someone who actually installs them like Dave T or Jon Meyer. A few that I purchased were not bent correctly.
          Good point. Even one from Jon Myer wasn't bent quite right. However, I was able to bend it just enought to work. Even so, they weren't exact matches to the original hoses.



          Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

          Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia.
          '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Avanti R-1, Museum R-4 engine, '72 Gravely Model 430 with Onan engine

          Comment


          • #6
            Someone did some nice tech articles on that not that long ago ...

            oh yah .. that was me!

            I never got back to finishing them .. but the info can be had from
            reading these two threads :

            Powersteering hoses (incomplete)
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=9936

            Powersteering Q & A
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=7602

            Tom

            '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
            '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
            Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
            http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
            I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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            • #7
              Gentlemen-- I am very grateful to you for taking the time to reply, and especially for the links to the article. I had not come across that particular post before. What a bunch of oily snakes they appear to be, Tom!

              I am brand new to Studebakers... I have restored (and still own) old Fords, and decided I wanted the car I always dreamed of, one where every single part isn't available new in a catalog. Well, I got my wish there-- I am now daily testing my skills at fabricating things.

              You will doubtlessly hear from me again. And I am sure before long I will be able to help others as well.

              Thank you, Bill Henderson

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              • #8
                I'll advise against installing the hoses with the control valve in place....Pain in the rear. Problem is you run into a pitman arm removal issue as witnessed in an earlier set of posts. Once off you can install with relative ease and be assured of no leaks...maybe...

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                • #9
                  I bought the complete rebuild set from SI--- the seals and the hoses together. The valve doesn't really leak-- maybe a drop or two every few days, but I figured I'd be sorry if I didn't buy them together.

                  Being a veteran car fixer, I have long ago learned that it is far better to do it right the first time, and to do everything possible at once. I have also learned that there is no shame at all in asking others who have skinned their knuckles before me.

                  Any other opinions? Pitman arms don't normally scare me, but I have never done them on any other car than a Ford. I can't help noticing that all the photos in the posts seem to show the valve out of the car.

                  Thank you, Bill


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                  • #10
                    "Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain .. I am the Great Oz!"
                    Or Pitman Arm as the case may be. It is not that hard to do with the
                    right tool, and I show the modded one in my posts.

                    Powersteering pump rebuild
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=8527

                    Powersteering Control Valve (incomplete)
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=10694

                    Powersteering Ram (incomplete)
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...?TOPIC_ID=9935

                    I would suggest that you bring the car in for a NICE steam cleaning,
                    if its like any other Stude I have worked on, you will have grease to
                    your neck (and above) by the time you get it apart. "PigPen" won't
                    have nothing on you! The control valve isnt so bad, just be sure to
                    read that last part about the assist adjustment!

                    While you have the car in the air, why not install a TKO 5-speed?

                    TKO install
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...TOPIC_ID=13734

                    Tom
                    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Tom, I can't seem to open your links. Is it just me? Thanks

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