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Which water pump should I buy-new or rebuilt?

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  • Which water pump should I buy-new or rebuilt?

    My '50 Champion needs a water pump. Studebaker International has a rebuilt one (part #682630R) for $90.50 and they want my old one before they'll send it to me. They also have a new one (part #682630) for $78 with no exchange. Why is the new one cheaper than the rebuilt one and why don't they want my old one if I buy a new one? This doesn't make sense to me. Is this a mistake on their web site? I thought new parts are always more expensive than rebuilt ones....[?]



    1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

    1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

  • #2
    Why would you think they would need your old pump if you buy a new? That makes NO sense.
    Yes I know recently, some Auto parts Stores started doing that, possibly for scrap value and that makes 0 sense.

    They obviously have a good source possibly offshore, for new ones and the rebuild's are quality U.S. labor priced. [^]

    In the new global economy, it makes perfect sense.

    StudeRich
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

      Why would you think they would need your old pump if you buy a new? That makes NO sense.
      So they could rebuild it and resell it. Duh.

      You forgot to answer my question-should I buy a new or rebuilt one?



      1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

      1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

      Comment


      • #4
        I've used both rebuilt and new pumps with good results. If the rebuilder does a good job, the rebuilt is just as good or better than as a new one. If the new pump is manufactured off shore, I believe that I would use a rebuilt pump even if you have to send the supplier your old pump first. Most suppliers don't ask for a core if you buy a new part from them as they usually have no need for it. Bud

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        • #5
          Rich, you mis-understood what Dave was asking! he wants to know what one to buy? I would go with re-built rather than a off shore.

          Joseph R. Zeiger
          Joseph R. Zeiger

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          • #6
            I don't understand Studebaker International's policy of the buyer having to send them their old one first before they'll ship out a rebuilt one. Instead of doing the whole job in an afternoon the car is out of commission for a couple of weeks. Also, the guy who is going to help me replace it wants to do it at his house so that means my car is there the whole time. I guess I'll just buy a new one and hope the Chinese know what they're doing....[8]



            1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

            1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Dave
              As I am just finishing up rebuilding my engine , I have been thinking of replacing the water pump ( bad things can happen when a water pump bearing goes out [:0])anyways what I am thinking of doing is to get one of the new one and then send my original water pump out to be rebuilt that way if I ever have a problem with the newer water pump I can replace it then and wont have to wait a week or two. Besides if you are going to keep your nice car ( and it is a nice car )it doesn't hurt to have a few extra parts around you know JUST IN CASE
              good luck Dave , Blake

              Comment


              • #8
                quote:Originally posted by 50Champ

                My '50 Champion needs a water pump. Studebaker International has a rebuilt one (part #682630R) for $90.50 and they want my old one before they'll send it to me. They also have a new one (part #682630) for $78 with no exchange. Why is the new one cheaper than the rebuilt one and why don't they want my old one if I buy a new one? This doesn't make sense to me. Is this a mistake on their web site? I thought new parts are always more expensive than rebuilt ones....[?]
                1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan
                If I were you, I'd first call S/I to make [u]certain</u> those prices are still correct. If they are, I'd order the [u]NEW</u> pump [especially with your concern about the amount of time your Stude is off-the-road] A few years back, I sent my water pump to a different Stude vendor for rebuilding. What I got back had one fan blade mounting hole drilled & taped to a larger size and the mounting flange was pressed on the shaft about 1/2" too far. Yes, after a [u]week or so more</u> the vendor did make it all right.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks for the kind words, Blake.

                  I'm going to call them on Monday, Jim. I want to move fast with this. The guy who is going to help me is someone who I just met today. I pulled into Tractor Supply to buy a slow vehicle triangle to put on the back of the '62 Ford 2000 Industrial tractor that I bought on Thursday and as I was backing into a parking spot on the far side of the lot I saw another '50 Champion-a freshly restored black cherry 4 door-pull up in front of me. It turns out the guy lives in the area and, along with his son, had just finished restoring the car that his father bought new in Louisville. They rebuilt the engine and did all the other mechanical work. I think he said they did everything but the interior, which was restored by someone else, and the whole job took three years. Anyway, I told him I thought that my water pump was going out and after listening to the engine he agreed. He said to buy another one and give him a call and he and his son would help me replace it. I've been trying to find another local Stude guy who knows a lot about engines for a while so I feel pretty fortunate. How long should the job take, maybe 3-4 hours? That sounds a lot better than two weeks....



                  1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan

                  1949 Studebaker 2R5 half ton pickup...

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    my company used to sell champ waterpumps to SASCO. These were new, not rebuilt pumps. The difference between new & rebuilt are that the original pumps used a portion of the impeller (cast iron)as one half of the pump seal. The risk to this design is that if the car is only used once in a while, the water portion of the coolant will eat away at the cast iron & it will eventually fail. The new pumps use a self contained seal which has a sintered iron seal ring which can stand up to infrequent use.

                    Our company shifted the production of the new pumps to one of our sister companies & they sent the casting tooling to mexico. They get the bearings & seals out of china & then assemble the parts in their plant in Ohio.
                    Mike Sal

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                    • #11
                      Dave, if someone takes 3 to 4 hours on a water pump change out, you have a talker! Should take under one and that's with a sandwich and a beer.
                      There have been many threads on water pumps and the better differences in some of the newer ones. They are more pricey, but worth it.

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                      • #12
                        IMHO buy the new one. Send your old one out for rebuild. Superior Pump out of LA or ?? Keep the rebuilt one for future use. If you drive your car having a spare water pump available is a wise move.
                        Russ
                        quote:Originally posted by 50Champ

                        My '50 Champion needs a water pump. Studebaker International has a rebuilt one (part #682630R) for $90.50 and they want my old one before they'll send it to me. They also have a new one (part #682630) for $78 with no exchange. Why is the new one cheaper than the rebuilt one and why don't they want my old one if I buy a new one? This doesn't make sense to me. Is this a mistake on their web site? I thought new parts are always more expensive than rebuilt ones....[?]



                        1950 Champion 2 Dr. Sedan


                        Russ Shop Foreman "Rusty Nut Garage"
                        53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                        57 SH (project)
                        60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

                        Russ Shop Foreman \"Rusty Nut Garage\"
                        53 2R6 289 5SpdOD (driver)
                        57 SH (project)
                        60 Lark VIII 2dr sd (driver)

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                        • #13
                          My advise to people who have their original pumps rebuilt & put on the shelf as a spare....pack them in a sealable bag with some of those desicant bag (for absorbing moisture). Setting on the shelf, the newly ground & polished cast iron seal face (on the impeller) will start to rust over time if not protected. This will greatly reduce it's usefull life when it does get put into service. The other part of the seal is a molded (& sometimes fired)carbon plastic ring which can get chewed up by the iron oxide.
                          Mike Sal

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                          • #14
                            I can provide you with a new American made pump for the cost of an SI rebuild and a rebuild (by superior) for a little less. Drop me a line if interested. Bo
                            Bo

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                            • #15
                              Why not contact dave thibeault?...........he will not require the old pump immediately.......but will require additional deposit to ensure the old pump is sent to him in short order.

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