R3 valves and hardened seats

[IMJ]

Considering how close the R3 valves are to each other when installed in a standard V-8 head, is it possible to install hardened intake and exhaust seats with the larger valves in the 1557582 R2/truck heads. If the answer is no, Is there enough room to install a standard size exhaust valve with hardened seats and R3 intakes without hardened seats? Is there any problem just installing the hardened seats with the exhaust valves and not the intake?
Thanks in advance.

regards,
Jay

[DEEPNHOCK]

Contact Fairborne Studebaker...

http://www.fairbornstudebaker.com/

Ask for Malcomb Berry...
He has done what you ask about.
HTIH
Jeff

quote:Originally posted by IMJ

Considering how close the R3 valves are to each other when installed in a standard V-8 head, is it possible to install hardened intake and exhaust seats with the larger valves in the 1557582 R2/truck heads. If the answer is no, Is there enough room to install a standard size exhaust valve with hardened seats and R3 intakes without hardened seats? Is there any problem just installing the hardened seats with the exhaust valves and not the intake?
Thanks in advance.

regards,
Jay

[PackardV8]

FWIW we've done many sets of heads with the R3 intakes and the standard-size heavy-duty truck exhaust valves with hard seats.

There are a few things to watch for, especially if the head has had the seats reground once or twice and the parent iron is getting thin.

And no, the R3 intake valves don't require hard seats, but will need a special bowl cutter tool and some hand grinding work on both the intake and exhaust.

The last set we did, including cleaning, new guides, milling, new springs and valves was $895. PM me if you'd like more information.

thnx, jack vines

PackardV8

[Mike Van Veghten]

1. ONLY the exhaust hard seats are required...no intakes required.
As Jack notes.
I'll measure the seat material I use and post tomorrow.

2. Use the stock 1.53 dia. exhaust valve.

3. Use the R3, 1.875 dia. intake valve

4. Replace or reline the guides, do not knurl.

5. Don't do all this work without having your shop do a three angle valve grind.
That is, 3 angles on the head and two angles on the valve.

6. Think seriously about having someone (at least) do some cleanup porting after grinding the new intake seat diameter.

Mike

[IMJ]

[Mike Van Veghten]

Jay -

Yes, the 30, 45, 70 is fine on the seat in the head.
To get the most out of this, the shop person has to have a valve in hand. With this valve, he measures the actual OD of the valve. Then sets the outer diameter of the seat about .010" smaller than the valve. The 30 and the 70 control this seat thickness AND diameter/location.
Make sure the shop doesn't go any deeper than he needs to. Make ALL the new seats the same height.

On the valve, put a fresh 45 degree seat, then "back cut" the sharp edge, or the edge inward toward the stem, of the valve with about a 30 degree cut. This cut should bring the valve seat width between .070" and .080" wide.

NOW...since this is going to really screw up the intake bowl, someone needs to do some "porting" to open and reshape the bowl area (under the valve head).
Otherwise...all the expense of the larger valve is a waste big of money.
Look here to get an idea on what to do.

http://public.fotki.com/-Mike-/

Click on the folder, double click to enlarge each picture.

Be diligent on the wall next to the exhaust valve, do NOT remove too much material from this wall. Don't look too close at the pictures in the .050" valve move for this.

One other thing you'll notice in my pictures, when/if you put new guides in, be sure to buy 16 exhaust guides...and use them in the intake side also. OR, just machine the guide until it's the same height as the casting in the port.

Have fun.

Mike

[IMJ]

Thanks Mike for the informative reply and the link to the pictures. A picture is worth a 1,000 words. Thanks again to others as well.

regards,

Jay