Can you bend a hood prop rod?

[Michidan]

Post could be titled - Ah the joys of engine swapping #317.

See that the new radiator gets in the way. The hood prop rod is about an inch from being able to fit back in its hole.


Was thinking of just bending around it, like in red.


Think that would be fine and hold the hood up no problems?
Could remove a section of rod and weld a C shape around. Could work on extending the lower bend so that it sticks out farther from the radiator cover. Toss me some ideas before I ruin a perfectly good hood prop.

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[Henry Votel]

Hi Michidan,

The hood prop rods are made of decent steel. I would not be worried about putting it in a vise 'cold'and tapping with a big hammer to bend it. (I've straightened several doing this) If you are worried about cold bending, heat it up with a torch until its red and tap lightly.

A second thought... get a similar sized rod of steel and do a test bend to make sure your planned realignment will work out.

Best regards

Henry Votel
Forest Lake, MN

[Alan]

Or get yourself a piece of Stainless steel the same size, bend it how you want and polish it.[]

[JGK 940]

quote:Originally posted by Alan

Or get yourself a piece of Stainless steel the same size, bend it how you want and polish it.[]

I'm with Alan on this one, 'specially considering the reflections of photographer and sunset I can see in the incredible paint job next door [8D]

Keoni Dibelka / HiloFoto
In Hawai'i; on Hawai'i; on the Windward Side
If da salt air never chew 'em up bumbye da lava will...

(edit: sun position correction )

[StudHawk60]

Just get rid of that ole rod and wedge a 2x4 in it's place.[:0]

[sweetolbob]

Dan

I had to do that on the 54K to make it clear the vette intake setup.

Unless the 52 had different steel, It just reminded me of hot rolled rod and was no problem to bend. I think I bent it with my knee and maybe a vise for the sharper bends.

Looks like you are getting close with the 52.[][] hope it's on the road soon.

Bob

,

[Michidan]

Ok, that's settled. A 2x4 it is then.
I AM getting close on this car. I need a gas pedal, carb, shifter, driveshaft, distributor, and about 20 other little things accomplished. I have missed a good many sunsets while in the garage with this car. Nice to see one I missed was captured.
My body man and I apologize for the wrinkled fender exposed in this shot. It was rust free but accident damaged, and we saved it. He offered to bondo up that inner panel but I didn't see the point to it.

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[JGK 940]

quote:Originally posted by Michidan
My body man and I apologize for the wrinkled fender exposed in this shot. It was rust free but accident damaged, and we saved it. He offered to bondo up that inner panel but I didn't see the point to it.

No apology expected or required. Anyone who'd give you grief over a piddle like that after even glancing at what you've done with the rest of this car should be invited to take another look at it real close up while you yank out the 2X4 [xx(]

Keoni Dibelka / HiloFoto
In Hawai'i; on Hawai'i; on the Windward Side
If da salt air never chew 'em up bumbye da lava will...

[Alan]

You don't have to be that mean. Just use a short 2" X 4" and when they are looking front and center. Yell, look out!

[Relark]

quote:Originally posted by Michidan

Post could be titled - Ah the joys of engine swapping #317.

See that the new radiator gets in the way. The hood prop rod is about an inch from being able to fit back in its hole.


Was thinking of just bending around it, like in red.


Think that would be fine and hold the hood up no problems?
Could remove a section of rod and weld a C shape around. Could work on extending the lower bend so that it sticks out farther from the radiator cover. Toss me some ideas before I ruin a perfectly good hood prop.

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

Hey Michidan, how did you attach the fanshroud to the radiator? I can't tell if it's pop rivets or screws. I'm looking at the bracket that goes under the overflow pipe. Was it careful placement to avoid pucturing the core? Maybe I'm not seeing this corectly......
Thanks, Art

'59 Lark hardtop w/355 blown sbc, 700R4, 8.8" rear w/ 3.73 gears

Dogs are a man's best friend. Just ask my Dachshunds!

[Michidan]

Art - You won't be able to see the fan shroud mounts in this picture. It bolts to the radiator support and does not touch the radiator.
The radiator itself is an off the shelf Griffin 2.5 thick. I'm no pro at this stuff, just learn as I go. I was told by Griffin the best way to mount a radiator is on the core, not to the tanks. Apparently this is best for vibration, etc.
So taking my clues from cars I am familiar with (novas) I made 2 U shaped brackets at the bottom the radiator actually sits in. Those top brackets really just steady the thing in place. Yes those are just stubby sheet metal screws into the radiator, but they don't pierce anything carrying coolant.
I have this pic of the shroud in place. Came off a 71 Nova. (I find it's relaly handy to hav a few dead Chevies laying around.)

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[Relark]

Thanks, Michidan. I mistakenly called it a fan shroud. I was just wondering about those screws. I'm installing a Dillon cross-flow in my '59 Lark, I used a similar mounting system. I have pix of the install, probably too specific to post as general interest. (Actually I have lots of drama using Photobucket, just ask the moderator, BShaw!) If you like, send me your e-mail in a PM, I'll forward them to you.

Art