long tube headers

[ChampTrucking]

HEE HEE I would KILL to be able to afford a set of World heads.

[studelover]

Fred have you looked at the Speedway motors ram horn header? They flow as good as a full tube header and look very impressive. check them out. While I was building my stude I was going to have them build me a one off because I was using the studebaker 289. You are using a chevy small block( I wish I had gone that way) this could help you.

Studebakers forever!

[prager]

Rams horns are great in 2 inch for our cars..(65-66 stock type)..try the 2.5 inch and you will find that the steering linkage will interfere..ask me how I know...by the way.. I have a set of 2.5 inch rams horns for sale if anyone needs them...installed but never fired on..make me an offer...

Making resverations at the poor house parking lot for me and my 62 Lark..

[studebakerkid]

Hooker should still have the manifold flanges. You can do as I did and weld your own up using square tubeing and exit through the fender wells. As for low end torque as others have stated that is more a function of camshaft timeing. I can not tell you which camshaft I am using as I used a Crane Fireball more then twenty years ago but it is to radical for most automatic transmissions unless you use a stall converter. Since I am using a 12 inch clutch, toploader transmission from GM trucks and a 30 something 9 inch Ford differential it works fine. I used a vehicle dyno when I set up my engine that was rated to 400 hp. and as I recall I had 390 at the rear wheels so I was just barely able to run my car up on the machine without launching through the shop door.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[bezhawk]

If you want torque look into a set of doug thorly tri-y headers.
They are specifically designed for torque and as an added bonus, are more compact than 4 into 1 collectors.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com

http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

[bezhawk]

If you want torque look into a set of Doug Thorley tri-y headers.
They are specifically designed for torque and as an added bonus, are more compact than 4 into 1 collectors.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com

http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

[bezhawk]

If you want torque look into a set of Doug Thorley tri-y headers.
They are specifically designed for torque and as an added bonus, are more compact than 4 into 1 collectors.

Bez Auto Alchemy
573-242-3530

http://auto-alchemy.com

http://bez-auto-alchemy.blogspot.com

[bezhawk]

Sorry for the duplicate posts....timed out when sent and wasn't sure was sent

[clonelark]

I have a set of Trick Flo Aluminum heads on my 79 Malibu with Hooker headers this thing pulls hard on top end. But my 60 ft times suck.

If it wasn't for the last minute i'd never get anything done.

[rickhmn]

Thanks for the heads up on the 2.5 inch rams horns not fitting. I was just set to buy a pair! I agree that somebody needs to come up with a better idea for us chevy/lark guys. I think fenderwells would be the way to go but I don't have the resources to try a bunch of different ones to see if they fit. We could try the old "of course they'll fit, I have a torch" method but something a bit more elegant would be nice. I tried asking a couple shops but they did not want to spend the time to try to figure it out. Anyone have a part cataloug that gives dimensions?

[Thomas63R2]

Not all 2.5" rams horn manifolds are the same - the L79 Chevy II came with manifolds that angle back and may clear your obstruction. I believe they are also available repro.

Hot rods are fun, I understand your desire to get max acceleration - one of my other "street" cars is a '65 brand X stroker big block: 10.8x's at 125 mph in full street trim (skinny 8.6" wide E.T. Streets). Power is one component to quick e.t.s - but the big one that is often missed is a well thought suspension. Short story: you need rapid front end rise, proper weight transfer to the back - and rear suspension geometry that PUSHES the whole differential toward the ground. Too often the geometry is all wrong and the differential is being PULLED up toward the frame - and traction is lost. Long story: email me and I'll do my best to help you find traction.

Thomas

[prager]

Thomas, this may be the lost idea..ones that dump back..They may work, mine were center dumps...no go for me.. I was trying to post a pic of what I ended up with ..but photobucket locked me out from trying to remember my password....old age I guess... Anyhow..yes anything to get away from the steering would help..believe me.. I've tried a ton of stuff to figure this out..I'll try again to post a pic tomorrow of the left side hard welded cut off flange deal I had to do with block huggers...stay tuned!!

Making resverations at the poor house parking lot for me and my 62 Lark..

[prager]

See post below..I am a couputer moron!!!!
Making resverations at the poor house parking lot for me and my 62 Lark..

[prager]

[img][/img] yes finally!!!!

[prager]

The black band is vht...taped off against the previously ceramic coated header...what a pain in the you know where!!

Making resverations at the poor house parking lot for me and my 62 Lark..