Core plugs

[Guest]

As Roseanna-danna said "It's allllways something"...
Had my 259 ready to fire up after the rebuild with gas, oil and water, then had a starter issue that required an expert. Once it was back in, I spotted an oil puddle from the left valve cover and decided I'd find and order a pair of those fancy ribbed & chromed covers that make a much better seat with the gasket.
By the time the covers came (Phil Harris has 'em) we had a hard freeze and I came out to the garage to find two brass plugs under the car and a frozen puddle of water.
I've always done a first-run of an engine with distilled water but completely forgot what might, and did happen.
Now I'll loosen everything when it warms back to where it should be here and lift the engine enough for a good swing of the hammer.
Question is, should I reuse the popped core plug or buy two new ones?

Also, with the puddle there I assume the plugs did their job and my block is okay. Lord, I hope my block is okay!
Guess I'll know when I get it running - someday.

[jclary]

Wow Tom! I hope the block is OK too. I was not as lucky as you. My freeze plugs didn't fall out, but the block gave way. Wasn't a Studebaker, but was 46 years ago. I learned back then that it can get that cold in South Carolina. Good luck with it and I would suggest new plugs.

John Clary
Greer, SC

Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
SDC member since 1975

[sweetolbob]

Tom

I hope the block is fine too. My guess is that it should be ok. You found water/ice under it which would suggest that the pressure of expansion was relieved.

But a question, I'm curious about the use of distilled water in the block? I always leave mine dry until I fill it with 50/50 antifreeze/H2O prior to start. I would think it would lead to rust which would not help cooling.

Just trying to expand my knowledge base.

Bob

,

[rockne10]

NEW PLUGS!

[Guest]

Bob - On a first start I've used water just to run it up on a break in. After shutting it off, I drain both water and oil and refill with the 50/50. I start with water in case of leaks the clean-up is easier.
Thanks guys.

[sweetolbob]

Thanks Tom

In retrospect, that would have saved me about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze on the most recent startup.[)]

Good luck

Bob

,

[bams50]

Tom, be sure to look very closely at the areas adjacent to the plug holes for cracks. Frequently when there's enough force to push out a plug there's also a crack (or cracks)[V] This is common on Big 3 brands, so it may or may not be on a Studebaker.

If by chance there is, all is not necessarily lost. If they crack it will be just that outside area of the block, not internally, so a competent welder could weld it and it would be dependable. Of course, let's just hope it's not cracked!

Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
Parish, central NY 13131

GOD BLESS AMERICA

[WCP]

I would be concerned that the tubes in the radiator may be split. Best to pressure test once it is thawed.

[mapman]

I too would recomend new plugs, then pressure test the system to make sure it holds. Also check the heads for leaks. I had a f##d 289 that cracked the heads when I let it freeze.
Rob

[StudeRich]

Tom, if I remember right your's is a partial flow block right?

That means you have the slightly domed Disc. type core plugs, not cup type, those need to be perfectly FLAT for max tightness when installed. I have seen so many Studes. with them concave, pounded in, instead of flat.

Obviously they will be loose when domed out and if you dome them IN they will also be loose. Use a 1/2" drive socket or the proper seal driver to get them nice and flat and used some Permatex #2 with BRASS plugs and you will never have to do this job again! [^]

If you have a late '62-'64 they are Cup type and you just need to get them square to the block surface and you are good.

Some people have different opinions about rubber plugs and Dorman Type bolt-in type very easy to install, but for the permanent fix, I like the Brass original type. [^]

StudeRich

[studebakerkid]

A Stant radiator pressure tool is real cheep. When I first set up an engine I pressurize the cooling system using The Stant pressure tool and listen for air noises and tighten the leaks. Once the leaks are sealed I pressurize the cooling system up to 20 psi and let it sit over night. If it has pressure the next day I fill the cooling system with 80% antifreze. 50/50 is not good enough to deal with windchill around here. I have had a radiator slush up on me on a trip down from the mountains when it was -20.

If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

65 2dr sedan
64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
61 V8 Tcab
61 Tcab 20R powered
55 Commander Wagon
54 Champion Wagon
46 Gibson Model A
50 JD MC

[gordr]