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  • Brake tidbit.

    Second try. First post got eaten. Forum is definitely buggy these days.

    I'm working on rear brakes for a '60 Lark VIII. Washed up the backing plates, and found this typical wear:



    If those grooves get deep enough, they can interfere with free movement of the brake shoes. First step was to run a bead of MIG weld over the grooves:



    Next step was to rough-grind the welds with an angle grinder, and then file them flat with a rotary file in the drill press. I found it easier to use the table-raiser crank to lift the backing plate up into the rotating cutter. End result was nice flat tables again:



    In another thread here, mention was made of using Zerks in the threaded holes of the axle housing to pump grease into the rear wheel bearings. That'll get it around the bearings, but not necessarily into them. Here's a pic showing the tried and true method of packing tapered roller bearings, mostly for the benefit of any newbies reading this:



    Hand pressure basically squeegees new grease into the open edge of th bearing cage, forcing out any old grease and dirt that may be lodged there. You continue until you have a curl of clean grease coming from every gap between the rollers. Works for front wheel bearings, and throwout bearings, too, although with the latter, you don't see much of anything expelled. But the new grease goes somewhere!

    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
    Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

  • #2
    Just the way I was taught to do it.

    Matt
    Brisbane
    Australia
    Matt
    Brisbane
    Australia
    sigpic

    Visit my Blog: http://www.mattsoilyrag.blogspot.com.au/

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    • #3
      Yep, that's the way Dad dit it!

      Good tip about the groove, I never would have thought of that... in fact, I couldn't see anything wrong in the picture![:I]

      Robert (Bob) Andrews- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys)
      Parish, central NY 13131

      GOD BLESS AMERICA





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      • #4
        Gord should be wearing nitrile gloves when handling grease like that.
        (Rule # 20 )
        Jeff[8D]


        quote:Originally posted by bams50

        Yep, that's the way Dad dit it!
        Good tip about the groove, I never would have thought of that... in fact, I couldn't see anything wrong in the picture![:I]
        HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

        Jeff


        Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



        Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

        Comment


        • #5
          quote:Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK

          Gord should be wearing nitrile gloves when handling grease like that.
          (Rule # 20 )
          Jeff[8D]
          WHAT?...and ruin a perfectly clean pair of nitrile gloves?[:0]
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            I use a needle fitting attached to my grease gun to force grease into the bearing cage on the rear wheel bearings. I found that it's easier and a bunch cleaner to use the needle fitting to pack the bearings. I've run into the same wear problem on Stude backing plates and I've used the same repair method to solve the problem. Bud

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            • #7
              Problem with nitrile gloves is that they will tear almost immediately under such treatment, so you get grease on your hands anyway. I did wash my hands with Fast Orange hand cleaner immediately after completing this little job, though.

              And I do have nitrile gloves, and use them when I'm washing parts in the solvent tank.

              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
              Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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              • #8
                What sort of bad braking symptoms would those grooves cause? Are they from the steel backing of the shoe right?

                Jeff in ND

                '53 Champion Hardtop

                Jeff in ND

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                • #9
                  Jeff, if the grooves get bad enough, the shoe can hang up in them, until the cylinder pressure gets high enough to force them out. The effect would be grabby brakes, that are hard to apply lightly. Also you can get noise, and uneven lining wear. As the metal backing of the shoes settles into the groove, the web of the shoe will no longer be parallel to the backing plate.

                  It's a pretty easy fix. I guess it could be considered as a "restoration" of the backing plate to as-new dimensions in some critical places.

                  I got the axle shaft end play set today, and both backing plates are now back on the car.



                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
                  Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

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                  • #10
                    Great post Gord. We need to figure out a way to find a place to put this kind of info where it could be easily found for reference by those who could benefit from the technical knowledge of more experienced members. I know we have the "search" feature, but perhaps we could have a collection of "stickies" with the "show and tell" pictures you provided without all the replies. Maybe we could only include replies that enhance or provide substantial supporting information, but exclude the conversation (such as I am typing now) that does not add to the topic. Too often the real "Meat" of the post gets lost in the babble of some of our comments and is hard to dig up with the search feature of the forum. Just a thought.

                    John Clary
                    Greer, SC

                    Life... is what happens as you are making plans.
                    SDC member since 1975
                    John Clary
                    Greer, SC

                    SDC member since 1975

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                    • #11
                      And it is a great thought John...
                      That's why I tend to be a bit preachy about how important a proper header is.
                      Sometimes we talk in depth about a good subject, but it gets lost because the header makes no sense a month down the road.
                      And the shared knowledge needs to be quality info, too.
                      Gord's pic's show exactly the info he was sharing, which is huge.
                      (and Gord has such supple hands[])
                      Jeff[8D]


                      quote:Originally posted by jclary

                      Great post Gord. We need to figure out a way to find a place to put this kind of info where it could be easily found for reference by those who could benefit from the technical knowledge of more experienced members. I know we have the "search" feature, but perhaps we could have a collection of "stickies" with the "show and tell" pictures you provided without all the replies. Maybe we could only include replies that enhance or provide substantial supporting information, but exclude the conversation (such as I am typing now) that does not add to the topic. Too often the real "Meat" of the post gets lost in the babble of some of our comments and is hard to dig up with the search feature of the forum. Just a thought.
                      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                      Jeff


                      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I see you've been gettin' some bone-chillin temps up there, Gord.

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                        • #13
                          Interesting post. I don't think that I have ever seen a backing plate worn like that. That one must have higher miles than what I have seen.

                          "In the heart of Arkansas."
                          1952 Champion Starlight w/overdrive. Searcy, Arkansas
                          "In the heart of Arkansas."
                          Searcy, Arkansas
                          1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                          1952 2R pickup

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