I'd say take whatever is left over with the pedal even if you don't use it. I'm the kind of guy who will take that stuff, in the event that I'll need it in the future. You'll need to remove it from the firewall, and you'll need to be super careful with the clips on the firewall(it's one of those deals where you squeeze both sides in, and push it through the hole).
My suspended pedal was almost application specific, in that I wanted something with a little more control than the stock pedal that I was using. If you're using a stock Studebaker carb, I'd almost be tempted to use the stock mechanical linkage that hung from the back of the engine, unless you can find a way to make it work with the Studebaker carb. I had one in the Lark and 2r5 without issue, as they were still factory carbureted engines. If there's some semblance of a hole where the throttle boot used to be, and a place to drill two holes in the floor, and unlike my other Daytona project, is not rusted through in the toeboards, for simplicity's sake I'd use the stock mechanical linkage in this regard. If you really wanna a challenge though, want to remove the linkage on the back of the engine, and in general, clean up the area around the firewall, you can use a cable linkage. However, like I said, you will need to find a way to hook it up to the Studebaker carburetor, and align the cable linkage so it doesn't bind. But, you will have a modern pedal in the car.
I also forgot....return springs. I used stiffer dual coil return springs from an '85 Oldsmobile. I hooked those up to the throttle body, which solved the closing issues, as the geometry allows them the throttle to properly close.
My suspended pedal was almost application specific, in that I wanted something with a little more control than the stock pedal that I was using. If you're using a stock Studebaker carb, I'd almost be tempted to use the stock mechanical linkage that hung from the back of the engine, unless you can find a way to make it work with the Studebaker carb. I had one in the Lark and 2r5 without issue, as they were still factory carbureted engines. If there's some semblance of a hole where the throttle boot used to be, and a place to drill two holes in the floor, and unlike my other Daytona project, is not rusted through in the toeboards, for simplicity's sake I'd use the stock mechanical linkage in this regard. If you really wanna a challenge though, want to remove the linkage on the back of the engine, and in general, clean up the area around the firewall, you can use a cable linkage. However, like I said, you will need to find a way to hook it up to the Studebaker carburetor, and align the cable linkage so it doesn't bind. But, you will have a modern pedal in the car.
I also forgot....return springs. I used stiffer dual coil return springs from an '85 Oldsmobile. I hooked those up to the throttle body, which solved the closing issues, as the geometry allows them the throttle to properly close.
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