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How to: Lark Climatizer blower case refurb pix

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  • How to: Lark Climatizer blower case refurb pix

    Recently I re-did the heater core / blower case on Barney, so I thought I'd post pix here for any newbies lurking

    Climatizer comes out of the car:


    Blower case before electrolytic de-rusting and paint removal:



    And after:



    A nice coat of primer and Rustoleum gloss black:


    New blower motor and case go together with gasket between:


    Install the blower fan retainer clip on the motor shaft with a socket and handle:


    Blower and case half attaches to the core case with 7 6-20 x 1/4" machine screws. Re-tap if necessary:


    Put a golf-ball of plumber's putty in each corner of the case before re-mounting the core:


    Core is held to the case with a sheet-metal screw through each flange. Don't forget the triangular rubber piece that goes into the notch on the tank:


    Ready to re-install! Foam-rubber seal goes between case flange and dash.


    Lots more verbose details and pix on my blog


    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

    Clark in San Diego
    '63 F2/Lark Standard
    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
    www.studebakersandiego.com

    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

  • #2
    Good work!

    Comment


    • #3
      Good show! I assume you had the core pressure-checked before reassembly. Right?


      1957 Transtar 1/2ton
      1963 Cruiser
      1960 Larkvertible V8
      1958 Provincial wagon
      1953 Commander coupe
      1957 President two door

      No deceptive flags to prove I'm patriotic - no biblical BS to impress - just ME and Studebakers - as it should be.

      Comment


      • #4
        quote:Originally posted by Mr.Biggs

        Good show! I assume you had the core pressure-checked before reassembly. Right?
        Oh yah, it's a brand-new core... the old was was Swiss cheese! [xx(]


        [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

        Clark in San Diego
        '63 F2/Lark Standard
        http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
        www.studebakersandiego.com

        Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

        Comment


        • #5
          Looking great, Clark!

          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands
          Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands

          Comment


          • #6
            Showbizkid,

            Great info and photos. I'm in process of reburbing my 1957 Silver Hawk climatizer. I'm trying to remove the motor and can't remove the fan. I've removed the set screw in the side of the shaft, but the fan won't break free.

            Is there anything else holding the fan (squirrel cage fan) besides the set screw? I'm assuming its just rusted and won't break free. I'm soaking it in penetrating oil for a day or two and will try again.

            Thanks much, Mark

            Mark Rogers

            Comment


            • #7
              Very nice job. Thanks.

              Comment


              • #8
                [quote]Originally posted by mrogers

                Showbizkid,

                There is only the set screw holding the squirrel cage on the shaft.Use some penetrating oil,then tap the squirrel cage on a little farther.that should loosen it so it can be pulled off.Good luck!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Gang,

                  Thanks for the help. This one is a classic handyman's story. I'm restoring the car and the climatizer was making noise, but it worked. Sounds like a great candidate for improvement.

                  Another victory. It doesn't make noise anymore.

                  The realisty. To break the fan loose, I drove it down the shaft a little further. Now the squirrel doesn't move. I tried to pry the fan loose, it broke off the shaft. Now, no fan cage, and the motor doesn't turn and the fan center section is still locked on the motor shaft. More work tomorrow.

                  Next question. Do they still sell fan cages? Hopefully not the next question. If I locked up the motor, do they still sell fan motors?

                  I'm just glad that I enjoy this agony.

                  Thanks again for all the help. Mark

                  Mark Rogers

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Mark,

                    You can get all the parts from Studebaker International. They have complete blower motors, squirrel cages, mounting gaskets, etc.

                    I have never seen a blower with a set-screw to hold the cage to the shaft! Mine just presses on the shaft, and there's a sheet-metal spring nut that presses onto the end of the shaft to keep the cage from coming off. I think any new ones you get from SI will have this setup as well.

                    Good luck!


                    [img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

                    Clark in San Diego
                    '63 F2/Lark Standard
                    http://studeblogger.blogspot.com
                    www.studebakersandiego.com

                    Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Dredging this thread up to the top...

                      Curious how the plumber's putty handles the heat of the heater core? Does it smell when hot?

                      Also wondering if the plumber's putty could be used in place of the rubber triangle plug. My Lark heater core has been worked over several times by previous owners, and the triangle plug is long gone...

                      Thanks,

                      Pete

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by blueskies View Post
                        Curious how the plumber's putty handles the heat of the heater core? Does it smell when hot?

                        Also wondering if the plumber's putty could be used in place of the rubber triangle plug. My Lark heater core has been worked over several times by previous owners, and the triangle plug is long gone...
                        Hey Pete!

                        I chose to use plumber's putty because 1) it remains pliable over time and keeps providing the cushioning / locating stability the core needs to keep from coming loose inside the case, and 2) Whatever the factory used was either plumber's putty itself or some variant - a sticky glob of something whitish-gray.

                        It's been 7 years now and I've not had any trouble with it; it does not smell when the heater is in use. As for the rubber plug... I'm not certain why that's even there. Suspect it's a vibration dampener; you could probably omit altogether or carve yourself one out of a suitable triangular rubber block such as a suspension dampener

                        Clark in San Diego | '63 Standard (F2) "Barney" | http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just a guess but the triangular rubber piece may have been there to make sure all the air passed through the heater core & didn't allow any going without the heater "treatment".
                          59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                          60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                          61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                          62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                          62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                          62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                          63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                          63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                          64 Zip Van
                          66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                          66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                          • #14
                            The hardest part of having a Radiator Shop Re-core these Studebaker Heater cores is getting them to understand that the Location of those mounting BRACKETS is Critical! They MUST be as original to precisely fit the Boxes on each of the Models.
                            StudeRich
                            Second Generation Stude Driver,
                            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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