Mastercylinder replace or restore?

[66daytonastud]

Everything on 66 Daytona is original, interior is like new, other than the seat foam is deteriorating. Good Chrome and paint, Hard top is in great condition. There is some corrosion puffing out in a few places but it is sealed under age hardened paint. Being a victim of untethered globalism I lost my big garage along with pretty much everthing else.

I'm getting her ready for sale out of necessity. I'm reluctant to replace the master cylinder with one that has the newer style lid (No bolt.) Considering a sleeve but don't need to spend the money. Interested in opinions on improved design verses original equipment.

[Dick Steinkamp]

Take the old one apart and run a hone through it. If it is not pitted, throw a kit in it. $25 or so.

What is the symptom that makes you suspect the MC is bad?

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[66daytonastud]

She sat around a long time in a tobacco barn in Kentucky. She was covered but the brake system didn't like the vacation. I cleaned a lot of corrosion out, and honed the master cylinder as much as I dared, still some pitting left. I don't have any way to tell if she still has any meat left to hone off. The primary piston doesn't create a fountain like the rear chamber does when I pump her on the bench. That is with the old parts in her. The brake shop thinks she is dead. They only visually inspected the cylinder. (All of the fluid was leaking out just setting still, but she only seems to leak know when I pump her.)

[Dick Steinkamp]

If the MC was that bad, I'd sure look at the rest of the system. Wheel cylinders probably look the same. Also, I'd replace the 3 flex lines.

Disc brakes or drums?

Dick Steinkamp
Bellingham, WA

[66daytonastud]

I'm going to rebuild the front cylinders, the bleeders were broke off on both rears. Heated the tar out of them but still stripped out my extractor. Red coated the fuel tank, and ran phosphoric acid through the fuel lines, then flushed with oil and gas. Cleaned out the carb several times, engine still sputters when you give her a lot of peddle. I'm guessing the accelerator pump needs adjusted. Some of the lifters weren't pumping up at first, a 5 minute oil flush and a couple oil changes fixed that problem.

[Warren Webb]

If you replace the master cylinder with another, keep the old one in case the new owner wants to have it resleeved with brass or stainless to keep it original. You didnt say if the brakes were drum front or disc. If it is disc brake equipped the correct rear wheel cylinders are a bit pricey. Sounds like a nice car, can you post some pictures of it? Re-reading your post I see it is drum brake equipped- dual master cylinder. The disc brake cars came with a single master. Parts are much more resonable for drum brake cars.

60 Lark convertible
61 Champ
62 Daytona convertible
63 G.T. R-2,4 speed
63 Avanti (2)
66 Daytona Sport Sedan

[66daytonastud]

One of the drums are worn pretty thin (big lip, had trouble getting off, springs stretched out.) Are the drums hard to find?

[66daytonastud]

And about the pics, where is the place to post?

[Skip Lackie]

http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3219

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[Roscomacaw]

Don't judge that drum by just eye-balling it. Have it measured with a drum caliper. They can be turned as much as .060" before they're not legal to use. The lip LOOKING thin can fool you as to whether or not there's enough "meat" left.

I also see you repairing the ignition switch. Our vendors have these switches available new, for not a whole lot of dough. They do have a nasty trick of falling out of the hose in the dash because the chrome retainer's ears give way under the tension of that big spring. Suggest you use electrical tape and/or rubber around the metal brace that's right behind the switch. That way, if it does drop out of the hole, it won't short out and fry the whole harness! Or worse/[V]


1957 Transtar 1/2ton
1963 Cruiser
1960 Larkvertible V8
1958 Provincial wagon
1953 Commander coupe
1957 President two door

[66daytonastud]

Just returned from Brake Materials and Parts. I was going to order a master cylinder, but they called the supplier and know he is saying it is no longer available[V] They also measured my front drum and said it is toast. He put some sort of spreader in the drum and measured the maximum inside diameter (what ever that is,)it jiggled around pretty good. Can anybody give me a source for a master cylinder[?]

[Skip Lackie]

Lots of good info on the SDC home page . . . .

http://www.studebakervendors.com/

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[Bordeaux Daytona]

Do a search on here for "amc master cylinder". There's a few posts. Just make sure it's about a drum brake car.
That's what most of the vendors are selling.
I picked up a rebuilt one from advance auto a few years back. It was around 30 dollars but I had to pay for the core. It looks different, it has a bailing wire instead of a bolt holding the lid on but other than that it's a bolt on.
Make sure the top of the master cylinder where the lids seals against isn't pitted, mine was. I should have brought it back and got another one.
I've seen some new ones sell cheap if you know the application.

[66daytonastud]

The AMC search tip really helped.

Thanks



66 Daytona all stock

[66daytonastud]

Gave up and settled for the AMC master cylinder with oval reservoir today. I thought Autozone had one with the squared corners and bolt down top, but when they shipped from the Hub Store it was the rounded reservoir.

Autozone #M1292 $19.99 Dual chamber, 1/2" fittings, bolted right up
Advanced Auto also has one for $19.99 AMC Ambassadore 1960's

The primary reservoir chamber isn't larger like the original Bendix.
I'm waiting for additional brake parts before giving her a whirl.

What is the best thing to use on the old master cylinder for storage?
WD, Synthetic Grease, Motor oil?



66 Daytona all stock