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  • Hydrovac problem

    Hi all, need some Hydrovac help. Saturday I started the 62 Hawk and billows of blue smoke poured out of the exhaust. I had no idea what was happening but after a couple minutes it started to stop smoking. I got in the car and stepped on the brakes and the peddal went down to the floor. At that moment I realized what had happened so I shut the engine off and checked my master cylinder and found it bone dry. I disconnected the Hydrovac vacuum hose, plugged the carb fitting and fired the engine, no more smoke.
    I then blead the brakes, including the hydrovac unit. Brake peddal was now firm,BUT, I noticed fluid seaping from the control unit on the Hydrovac
    I've been reading and studying the hdrovac drawings and I think what happened was that the diaphragm in the contol unit ruptured and allowed the brake fluid to be sucked into the carb. I have disassembled some of the control unit and found the poppet valve spring broken, but have not taken the diaphragm out.
    Well guys, what do you think??? Is it the diaphragm or something else?? Thanks for your help. Rudy

  • #2
    You are probably right. You can order rebuild kits for these. Lots of little parts!

    Dan White
    64 R1 GT
    64 R2 GT
    Dan White
    64 R1 GT
    64 R2 GT
    58 C Cab
    57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

    Comment


    • #3
      Contact Studebaker International, they are having NEW ones made. Ed is in the "testing" stage on them. These are NEW not rebuilt and have NOT been rebuilt 3 gazillion times!!

      Jim
      "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

      We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


      Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

      As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
      their Memorials!

      Comment


      • #4
        Do you know if Ed is making the disc brake Hydrovac or the standard one? Russ Farris
        1963 GT Hawk R-2 4-speed
        1964 Avanti R-1 Auto

        Comment


        • #5
          IIRC, Ed is having both disc & drum ones made. Call SI and speak to Ed, as I'm not 100% sure if he has "road tested" one yet.

          Jim
          "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

          We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


          Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

          As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
          their Memorials!

          Comment


          • #6
            Thanks for the posts and the emails and phone calls received, but I have been unable to locate the necessary parts for the booster, so, I'm going to remove it and go manual. I've got the vacuum line disconnected and blead the brakes and I have good pedal and basically the same brakes I've always had. Apparently the booster has not worked for a long time because I use the same pressure now as before with good results. I've contacted Vern Ediger in Kansas and he is sending me a manual brake pedal(which is longer) to make the switch. With a little luck I should have the Hawk back on the road in a couple weeks. Thanks again for your help.

            Rudy
            62 Hawk
            71 Avanti

            Comment


            • #7
              Did you check these guys. They sell refurbished hydrovacs for STudes and will sell the kits:

              http://www.remanbrakes.com/brake_boosters

              Dan White
              64 R1 GT
              64 R2 GT
              Dan White
              64 R1 GT
              64 R2 GT
              58 C Cab
              57 Broadmoor (Marvin)

              Comment


              • #8
                Rudy, be sure to check and see if the brake pedal is different on a power brake car vs a NON power brake scar! On my 57 Golden Hawk there was a difference in the pedal ratio.

                Jim
                "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

                We will provide the curb for you to stand on and clap!


                Indy Honor Flight www.IndyHonorFlight.org

                As of Veterans Day 2017, IHF has flown 2,450 WWII, Korean, and Vietnam Veterans to Washington DC at NO charge! to see
                their Memorials!

                Comment


                • #9
                  It been almost a month now since I converted to manual brakes, and I should have done this a couple years back. I have the best brakes you could ask for in a drum setup.
                  Thanks to all that responded to my need for help, I really appreciate the expertise shown.

                  Rudy Korb
                  62 Hawk
                  71 Avanti

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    At the risk of asking a stupid question :

                    Whats involved in disconnecting the Hydrovac?

                    Can the unit still stay in the engine compartment?

                    Thanks

                    http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                    http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

                    Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

                    http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                    (/url) https://goo.gl/photos/ABBDQLgZk9DyJGgr5

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That certainly is not a stupid question. The answer is yes, the hydrovac can remain. Here are the steps I used to convert to manual brakes on a 62 Hawk.

                      1. Disconnect the 2 brake lines and if you have the brake light switch in the hydrovac like I did, purchase a brass t-fitting at your local parts dealer, and connect the lines & switch to it.
                      2. Disconnect the rubber vacuum line from the carb and cover the port with a short piece of plugged rubber hose.
                      3. That's all that's needed to disconnect the hydrovac. That was the easy part.
                      4. Remove the brake pad and pull back the carpet to reveal the removeable plate on the floor. There are 6 screws holding this plate and it must be removed to allow the brake arm to be moved sideways.
                      5. From under the car, remove the hardware holding the brake lever to the frame. Slide the lever off the shaft and be careful of the 2 plastic bushing, they are fragile. Discard this brake arm.
                      6. I purchased a used brake arm from Vern Ediger in Kansas.
                      7. You will have to make some adjustments to the push rod linkage to the master cylinder as they are of different lengths.
                      8 Assembly of the new arm will be the reverse of the dissassembly, with one exception. The floor plate may have to be altered to work with this longer brake arm. I had to elongate the hole to keep the arm from rubbing.
                      9 Lube the fitting on the brake arm and then bleed the brakes, and you're all finished. Good luck, Rudy


                      quote:Originally posted by stall

                      At the risk of asking a stupid question :

                      Whats involved in disconnecting the Hydrovac?

                      Can the unit still stay in the engine compartment?

                      Thanks

                      http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                      http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rudy, Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. As a eager but inexperiensed mechanic I appreciate it. The only question I have is the brake lever; I'll have to find a longer one. Can i Assume that I need a 55 Studebaker brake lever from a V-8 (could it be a 6) with no brake power assist???

                        Is this the only brake lever, from the pedal to the Master Cyl.???

                        Thanks again, Murray




                        Posted - 09/30/2009 : 12:26:22 PM
                        --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                        That certainly is not a stupid question. The answer is yes, the hydrovac can remain. Here are the steps I used to convert to manual brakes on a 62 Hawk.

                        1. Disconnect the 2 brake lines and if you have the brake light switch in the hydrovac like I did, purchase a brass t-fitting at your local parts dealer, and connect the lines & switch to it.
                        2. Disconnect the rubber vacuum line from the carb and cover the port with a short piece of plugged rubber hose.
                        3. That's all that's needed to disconnect the hydrovac. That was the easy part.
                        4. Remove the brake pad and pull back the carpet to reveal the removeable plate on the floor. There are 6 screws holding this plate and it must be removed to allow the brake arm to be moved sideways.
                        5. From under the car, remove the hardware holding the brake lever to the frame. Slide the lever off the shaft and be careful of the 2 plastic bushing, they are fragile. Discard this brake arm.
                        6. I purchased a used brake arm from Vern Ediger in Kansas.
                        7. You will have to make some adjustments to the push rod linkage to the master cylinder as they are of different lengths.
                        8 Assembly of the new arm will be the reverse of the dissassembly, with one exception. The floor plate may have to be altered to work with this longer brake arm. I had to elongate the hole to keep the arm from rubbing.
                        9 Lube the fitting on the brake arm and then bleed the brakes, and you're all finished. Good luck, Rudy





                        http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                        http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

                        Life isn't about how to survive the storm, but how to dance in the rain !

                        http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                        (/url) https://goo.gl/photos/ABBDQLgZk9DyJGgr5

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Murray, I suggest you call Vern Ediger at 316-830-2634 (he has a Studebaker salvage yard) and discuss with him what brake lever you need. Not being familiar with a 55 Studebaker, is your master cylinder under the floor?? I have a hunch the same brake arm or lever was used in many different Studes. The arm you will need is one from a manual transmission car and I doubt whether the engine size matters. Again, Vern can help you out.
                          It sounds like a big job but its really fairly straight forward. This was my first conversion and once I had all the parts cleaned, painted and ready for assembly, it took about 1 hour to complete, less the bleeding. So just take your time, remember how it came apart, and all should turn out OK. Later, Rudy



                          quote:Originally posted by stall

                          Rudy, Thanks for taking the time to explain the process. As a eager but inexperiensed mechanic I appreciate it. The only question I have is the brake lever; I'll have to find a longer one. Can i Assume that I need a 55 Studebaker brake lever from a V-8 (could it be a 6) with no brake power assist???

                          Is this the only brake lever, from the pedal to the Master Cyl.???

                          Thanks again, Murray




                          Posted - 09/30/2009 : 12:26:22 PM
                          --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                          That certainly is not a stupid question. The answer is yes, the hydrovac can remain. Here are the steps I used to convert to manual brakes on a 62 Hawk.

                          1. Disconnect the 2 brake lines and if you have the brake light switch in the hydrovac like I did, purchase a brass t-fitting at your local parts dealer, and connect the lines & switch to it.
                          2. Disconnect the rubber vacuum line from the carb and cover the port with a short piece of plugged rubber hose.
                          3. That's all that's needed to disconnect the hydrovac. That was the easy part.
                          4. Remove the brake pad and pull back the carpet to reveal the removeable plate on the floor. There are 6 screws holding this plate and it must be removed to allow the brake arm to be moved sideways.
                          5. From under the car, remove the hardware holding the brake lever to the frame. Slide the lever off the shaft and be careful of the 2 plastic bushing, they are fragile. Discard this brake arm.
                          6. I purchased a used brake arm from Vern Ediger in Kansas.
                          7. You will have to make some adjustments to the push rod linkage to the master cylinder as they are of different lengths.
                          8 Assembly of the new arm will be the reverse of the dissassembly, with one exception. The floor plate may have to be altered to work with this longer brake arm. I had to elongate the hole to keep the arm from rubbing.
                          9 Lube the fitting on the brake arm and then bleed the brakes, and you're all finished. Good luck, Rudy





                          http://sites.google.com/site/intrigu...tivehistories/

                          http://studebakerspeedster.blogspot....s-new-v-8.html

                          Comment

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