This is tailored to the 63 R2, as it has the colored scale. Aside from that it should apply to others. ( I didn't take photos - sorry - but if anyone has an inoperative gauge, I may be interested in tearing into it to do a photo how-to = and it just might get fixed ).
I picked one of these up on Ebay for $39, that had the needle at full boost. But it moved with vacuum applied. The needle was flaking paint and the bezel was rusty. But, it came with a new bezel!
About an 1-1/2 hours later, it is as good as new.
Procedure: work a small screwdriver around the outside, bending the old bezel edge up. A few times around, carefully, even more so, if you don't have a new bezel.
Once the old bezel is free and can be removed from the gauge, the shield and glass can be removed, if needed. In the case of a new bezel, it must be.
I placed a backing under the needle to hold it solid, while scraping the remaining paint off, and then slotted paper o shielded the gauge from the new orange safety paint spray.
There is one nut on the back of the gauge where the air fitting is. That is all that holds the actual gauge within the case. Remove that nut, and the gauge is free to be removed.
With gauge free, the mechanism is pretty simple. There is a nearly flattened brass tube that is soldered between the fitting and the needle operating linkage. It works like a party favor, that you blow on and it unrolls. And when you create a vacuum it recoils. Only because it is brass, it moves ever so little.
And that is why the leverage linkage is hooked to the needle. Between that linkage and the brass tubing is a bendable piece of metal. Bending it calibrates the position of the needle, relative to the scale.
Assembly is straight forward.
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63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA
I picked one of these up on Ebay for $39, that had the needle at full boost. But it moved with vacuum applied. The needle was flaking paint and the bezel was rusty. But, it came with a new bezel!
About an 1-1/2 hours later, it is as good as new.
Procedure: work a small screwdriver around the outside, bending the old bezel edge up. A few times around, carefully, even more so, if you don't have a new bezel.
Once the old bezel is free and can be removed from the gauge, the shield and glass can be removed, if needed. In the case of a new bezel, it must be.
I placed a backing under the needle to hold it solid, while scraping the remaining paint off, and then slotted paper o shielded the gauge from the new orange safety paint spray.
There is one nut on the back of the gauge where the air fitting is. That is all that holds the actual gauge within the case. Remove that nut, and the gauge is free to be removed.
With gauge free, the mechanism is pretty simple. There is a nearly flattened brass tube that is soldered between the fitting and the needle operating linkage. It works like a party favor, that you blow on and it unrolls. And when you create a vacuum it recoils. Only because it is brass, it moves ever so little.
And that is why the leverage linkage is hooked to the needle. Between that linkage and the brass tubing is a bendable piece of metal. Bending it calibrates the position of the needle, relative to the scale.
Assembly is straight forward.
========================
63 Avanti R2, 4-Speed, 3.73 TT
Martinez, CA
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