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Spark plugs - what type?

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  • Bud
    replied
    For some reason, Champion and Autolite are recommending a hotter plug than was originally listed for the Stude OHV engines.The new Champion catalogue shows an RH18Y [857] plug instead of the H14Y [91]. The H14Y is still listed in the Champion catalogue if anyone wants to use them. The recommendation of a hotter plug may have something to do with the reformulated gas that many of us are forced to use in our engines. The Champion recommendation for the R engines is RJ12YC [14] which is still the same as the earlier recommendation. Bud

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  • N8N
    replied
    the 437 is a more modern projected nose type plug than a H10, the 437 is more comparable to an H14Y. I would not use a non-projected-nose plug in an OHV engine without trying the modern, projected-nose plugs first - I bet in 99% of cases the projected nose plug will work better.

    the reason they weren't recommended for a '53 is that they weren't available yet

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • 53k
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by Bud

    Stock 259 and 289 engines use a Champion RH18Y new number 857 or H14Y number 91. The Autolite number is 437 or 216. These are the numbers from the new Champion and Autolite catalogues. These plugs are readily available at most NAPA stores or though several Stude parts vendors. The Champion 857 or Autolite 437 are the plugs recommended for Stude V8'S with the exception of the 56 Golden Hawks and the R series engines. Bud
    I even used Autolite 437s in a R-2 Avanti- ran better with less trouble than the recommended Champions. My '53 called for H-10s, but it seems just as happy with Autolite 437s. My CarQuest dealer gets them for me next day from the warehouse.



    Paul Johnson, Wild and Wonderful West Virginia. '64 Daytona Wagonaire, '64 Daytona convertible, '53 Commander Starliner, Museum R-4 engine, '62 Gravely Model L, '72 Gravely Model 430

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  • dpson
    replied
    From a 1959 Champion Spark Plug chart:

    1951 thru 1957 V8 (except Goldenhawk).... H-11 or H-18Y
    1956 Goldenhawk.... N-16Y or N-18
    1957 Goldenhawk.... H-10
    1958 thru 1959 V8..... H-18Y

    and for you six fans:

    1941 thru 1955 Champion.....J-8
    1956 thru 1959 6-cyl. including Larks....J-7
    1942 thru 1950 (except Champion)...J-8

    I believe you can find J-8's and H-10's at Walmart in the lawn mower department.

    Dan Peterson
    Montpelier, VT
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible
    1960 Lark V-8 Convertible (parts car)
    1961 Lark Crusier
    1962 Lark V-8 Regal Convertible

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  • Bud
    replied
    Stock 259 and 289 engines use a Champion RH18Y new number 857 or H14Y number 91. The Autolite number is 437 or 216. These are the numbers from the new Champion and Autolite catalogues. These plugs are readily available at most NAPA stores or though several Stude parts vendors. The Champion 857 or Autolite 437 are the plugs recommended for Stude V8'S with the exception of the 56 Golden Hawks and the R series engines. Bud

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  • N8N
    replied
    quote:Originally posted by StudeRich

    John; the "J", "H" or "N" refers to the plug REACH, an H is a 7/16" reach, I have never heard of an "N", but it was never used in a Studebaker. I see in Bob's chart it is 3/4" Reach, way too deep into the combustion chamber, and could hit the Piston.

    The 14 is (or WAS in 1964) the proper HEAT RANGE for a non-Supercharged Studebaker for Street use.

    StudeRich
    Rich, I hate to have to tell you this, but a N reach spark plug *was* used on a Studebaker... when equipped with a Packard engine

    nate

    --
    55 Commander Starlight
    http://members.cox.net/njnagel

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  • Laemmle
    replied
    R-1 motors take a Champion J12Y

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  • Captain Billy
    replied
    I found this helpful.

    http://www.ntbp.com/sparkplug/techtype.htm

    What I didn't find helpful is the fact that of all the variations of the appropraite plugs for my Wagonaire I could only find one plug in the whole city, population 112,000.

    At this rate it's gon'a take a while to tune this puppy up.



    Bill Foy
    Kingston, Ontario
    1964 Wagonaire Slider

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  • Gunslinger
    replied
    Champion's "N" plugs were used in some Mopars...small blocks if I remember. They have something like a 3/4" reach.




    Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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  • mjeansonne
    replied
    ... And by the way, Champion H-14-Y is what the repair manual for a 1962 Hawk caled calls for.



    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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  • mjeansonne
    replied
    I did buy some Autolite 85's last night. I haven't pulled the old plugs yet to compare them together, (still awfully hot here with a heat index of 110F!!) but will do that and report back.



    Laisez le bon temps roulez avec un Studebaker

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  • Captain Billy
    replied
    I'm going out for plugs this morning, after reading on the subject yesterday. Seems that the RH10C Champion is recommended for regular 259/289 applications and RH18Y for R1 and R2.

    Others were using Autolite 8585, NGK 3332 XR5, and Bosch WR9 FC

    The car has RJ 12C 's presently which has a 3/8" reach.

    Good luck.



    Bill Foy
    Kingston, Ontario
    1964 Wagonaire Slider

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  • StudeRich
    replied
    John; the "J", "H" or "N" refers to the plug REACH, an H is a 7/16" reach, I have never heard of an "N", but it was never used in a Studebaker. I see in Bob's chart it is 3/4" Reach, way too deep into the combustion chamber, and could hit the Piston.

    The 14 is (or WAS in 1964) the proper HEAT RANGE for a non-Supercharged Studebaker for Street use.

    StudeRich

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  • okc63avanti
    replied
    Is there any possibility you misread the lettering? Champion does have a N-14-Y. Here's a spark plug X-ref chart I found on Bob Johnstone's web site.

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...plugrange.html


    <div align="left">John</div id="left">

    <div align="left">'63 Avanti, R1, Auto, AC, PW (unrestored)</div id="left">

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  • HarryStude
    replied
    I had the same problem at Carquest. The manufacturer has changed the numbers and it has made it more difficult. Fortunately they were good enough to track it down and get the new number. I would say try a place with and old school counter pro that knows the loop.

    PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

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