Starter Problems - 54 - 232 V8

[Ora Ashley]

Help!

Seems like when I thought I had my problem solved with my six volt starter for my 54 Coupe.

I bench tested my starter which would bearly turn over, and bendix would not engage. Took it apart, cleaned everything and checked the brushes, but to no avail. I replaced my starter with a rebuilt one, and got the engine to turn a little, but just didn't sound very strong. I pulled the plugs to relieve any compression, since I had used some head oil to soften things up. I check my cables and did a continuity check on the starter and ignition connection, solenoid seems to be working okay. I bypassed the solenoid, but symptoms were similar - very low engagement, and a funny buzzing noise.

Battery wise, I think my battery is shot, but I had been using a charger to augment the battery, which I had set in the start engine mode. I made sure all other power usage was turned off to the car and accessories.

My next steps were to replace the cables, which look okay, but are old welding cables. Then the solenoid? What else?

Thoughts?

Oran

Oran Ashley

http://photobucket.com/54stude

[HarryStude]

My suggestion is the cables and battery. A bad battery will even take what you can get out of the charger and make it crank slowly. My philosophy is always keep good cables and a good battery in it.

PROUDLY MADE IN AMERICA

[Ora Ashley]

Yep, that is what I have on the next steps list. Thanks for the advice!

Oran Ashley

http://photobucket.com/54stude

[studegary]

Start with a known powerful (not your average six volt battery) battery and known good six volt sized cables. If this is not enough, I usually converted the starters to four field coils by utilizing the housing with coils from a straight eight GM car. By now, it is probably easier/cheaper to add two more field coils to your existing starter.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[raprice]

Is everything grounded properly. A poor ground can cause a starter to turn slowly. Above all, use the proper gauge battery cables and a well charged battery.
Good luck.
Rog

'59 Lark VI Regal Hardtop
Smithtown,NY

[ivorydan]

If the 50 is similar to the 64 prestolite/autolite that caused me trouble, the hard turning of the starter was due to the end and center bushings all torn up and worn out.

[Ora Ashley]

Update with Good News!

Thanks to everyone's great advice - I have my engine running after five years, and had it on the street (beit just around the block) the first time since 1977! I bought the car in 1998, and have been working on it since then. This represents a bid milestone for me!

My starter problem proved out to be a bad starter, dead battery and old cables. I had NAPA make me some new ones and that along with a new battery, the engine started after the third crank and hums like a sewing machine.

Question, should the engine keep running after disconnecting one of the battery posts? The engine died, so off to chasing another mystery, I'll start with the generator and voltage regulator.

Thanks again for everyone's help.

Oran

quote:Originally posted by Ora Ashley


Help!

Seems like when I thought I had my problem solved with my six volt starter for my 54 Coupe.

I bench tested my starter which would bearly turn over, and bendix would not engage. Took it apart, cleaned everything and checked the brushes, but to no avail. I replaced my starter with a rebuilt one, and got the engine to turn a little, but just didn't sound very strong. I pulled the plugs to relieve any compression, since I had used some head oil to soften things up. I check my cables and did a continuity check on the starter and ignition connection, solenoid seems to be working okay. I bypassed the solenoid, but symptoms were similar - very low engagement, and a funny buzzing noise.

Battery wise, I think my battery is shot, but I had been using a charger to augment the battery, which I had set in the start engine mode. I made sure all other power usage was turned off to the car and accessories.

My next steps were to replace the cables, which look okay, but are old welding cables. Then the solenoid? What else?

Thoughts?

Oran

Oran Ashley

http://photobucket.com/54stude

Oran Ashley

http://photobucket.com/54stude

[r1lark]

Oran,

What was found wrong with the starter?

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

[Ora Ashley]

Paul,

Combination of a worn out bendix and worn out commutor (think I spelled that right), it was coated with dirt and even after cleaning would not turn that rapidly. Took it to a local parts store, where they also bench tested it.

Oran

quote:Originally posted by r1lark

Oran,

What was found wrong with the starter?

Paul
Winston-Salem, NC
Visit The NEW Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

Oran Ashley

http://photobucket.com/54stude

[studegary]

Yes, the engine will continue to run off the generator without the battery. I have driven these cars around the yard with no battery in them.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[avantilover]

I think you're referring to a Commutator. Am glad your car is running, good luck with it.

John Clements
Avantilover, your South Australian Studebaker lover!!!
Lockleys South Australia

[Ruby Lynn]

Uncle O,
I spoke to some wizzards here at work, and will give you a buzz on the phone to tell you how to test this thing.

Rob